Tang Band w3-594s 3" & 295-320 12" project - diyAudio
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Old 13th February 2004, 07:52 AM   #1
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Default Tang Band w3-594s 3" & 295-320 12" project

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Heres my current project, its far from done, but thought I'd start sharing. I will continue to updatethis thread only, so that all information remain together.

The speakers will consist of two 3" w3-594s up top. They will not be in an array format, but rather I will cross them over at ~5K (thats my plan so far....simple 6db....). The reason for this is so that 90% of the frequencies being played here are fairly timbre matched. Since this is a beginner project I figured that would help. I know I could easily run one Full range, but taking the bass off of the high end sounds like a nice thing to do . I wanted the drivers to be the same, so I chose the 3" to embrace the high frequencies, rather than the 4" for the extra oomph.

The Dayton 12" will be a side firing driver crossed over at most likey 100Hz (12db). The TB will naturally start to fall off around there, so they should crossover ok even with no high pass on the midrange.

Anyways here are the plans and "modeled" frequency of the Dayton and the lower TB.
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Old 13th February 2004, 07:53 AM   #2
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Heres the "meat" so far.


BTW I hate how wood isn't actually cut to what the dimensions say they are....I guess they can round up the nearest inch.


Details

Front and back 0.5"x6"x48" Poplar

Side 0.75"x16"x48" Melamine Shelf Board

Tops and Braces 0.75"x6.0" White Pine

Square Braces 0.75"x0.75"x12"

Elmers wood glue, wood screws, and plenty of Liquid Nails
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Old 13th February 2004, 04:11 PM   #3
markp is offline markp  United States
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The walls are very thin for such large panels. You are going to hear lots of 'box'. Try 1" thick walls to handle the pressure of the 12" woofer.
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Old 13th February 2004, 06:51 PM   #4
Guss is offline Guss  Canada
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You still can add alot of bracing to the structure.

Edit : You'd better retire the code bar before you glue the panels to the joint, it would weaken the link.
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Old 13th February 2004, 07:20 PM   #5
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Another design not considering Baffle Step Compensation.

You will need to roll in one mid unit first order at a much lower
frequency, around 500Hz, search the web for further info.

The bass unit needs a 4 to 6dB higher voltage sensitivity than
a single mid/treble unit. Over the range the mid/treble units are
working in parallel voltage sensitivity will be +6dB.

If the bass unit is not the right sensitivity a sub amplifier is an option.

sreten.
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Old 15th February 2004, 12:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by sreten
Another design not considering Baffle Step Compensation.

You will need to roll in one mid unit first order at a much lower
frequency, around 500Hz, search the web for further info.


Well I'll try and enjoy them best I can.
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Old 19th February 2004, 07:20 AM   #7
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Heres some progress. There getting to be pretty sturdy.

I think I'm gonna use a variovent in this design.
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Old 19th February 2004, 07:21 AM   #8
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Heres a closeup of the inside. I added some layers of vinyl floor tiles. There are 2 12x12 tiles worth on each speaker. They were $0.59 each at Home Depot.
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Old 19th February 2004, 07:22 AM   #9
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Heres a side by side view of the pair. They will be mirrored, with the woofers facing opposite directions.
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Old 19th February 2004, 10:45 AM   #10
navin is offline navin  India
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u gonna roll both tb's at 5k. ummmm...what u using for hf then?

why roll of the 12" at 12db? is that XO passive? if you have an extra power amp around i'd suggest PLLXO 6db for them. that might even solve your BSC problem.

good work so far.
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