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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Search Friendly Title
Heres my current project, its far from done, but thought I'd start sharing. I will continue to updatethis thread only, so that all information remain together. The speakers will consist of two 3" w3-594s up top. They will not be in an array format, but rather I will cross them over at ~5K (thats my plan so far....simple 6db....). The reason for this is so that 90% of the frequencies being played here are fairly timbre matched. Since this is a beginner project I figured that would help. I know I could easily run one Full range, but taking the bass off of the high end sounds like a nice thing to do The Dayton 12" will be a side firing driver crossed over at most likey 100Hz (12db). The TB will naturally start to fall off around there, so they should crossover ok even with no high pass on the midrange. Anyways here are the plans and "modeled" frequency of the Dayton and the lower TB. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Heres the "meat" so far.
BTW I hate how wood isn't actually cut to what the dimensions say they are....I guess they can round up the nearest inch. Details Front and back 0.5"x6"x48" Poplar Side 0.75"x16"x48" Melamine Shelf Board Tops and Braces 0.75"x6.0" White Pine Square Braces 0.75"x0.75"x12" Elmers wood glue, wood screws, and plenty of Liquid Nails |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: L.A., CA
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The walls are very thin for such large panels. You are going to hear lots of 'box'. Try 1" thick walls to handle the pressure of the 12" woofer.
__________________
If it sounds good... it is good! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal
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You still can add alot of bracing to the structure.
Edit : You'd better retire the code bar before you glue the panels to the joint, it would weaken the link. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Another design not considering Baffle Step Compensation.
You will need to roll in one mid unit first order at a much lower frequency, around 500Hz, search the web for further info. The bass unit needs a 4 to 6dB higher voltage sensitivity than a single mid/treble unit. Over the range the mid/treble units are working in parallel voltage sensitivity will be +6dB. If the bass unit is not the right sensitivity a sub amplifier is an option. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Quote:
Well I'll try and enjoy them best I can. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Heres some progress. There getting to be pretty sturdy.
I think I'm gonna use a variovent in this design. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Heres a closeup of the inside. I added some layers of vinyl floor tiles. There are 2 12x12 tiles worth on each speaker. They were $0.59 each at Home Depot.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Heres a side by side view of the pair. They will be mirrored, with the woofers facing opposite directions.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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u gonna roll both tb's at 5k. ummmm...what u using for hf then?
why roll of the 12" at 12db? is that XO passive? if you have an extra power amp around i'd suggest PLLXO 6db for them. that might even solve your BSC problem. good work so far.
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...still looking for the holy grail. |
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