Here is something:
Small speakers: 70mm schedule XXS seamless stainless steel construction process pipe (like used in chemical plants and refineries)
I wanted to fill them up with sand but they are already sooo heavy that I didn't. The cables are running through a 3/4 inch inner tube and the filter is in the footing of th stand. The loudspeaker is spiked to the top platform and is fastened with a spike tensioning system (patent pending
)
The larger loudspeaker is actually standing on the stands of my rear speakers because they have not been build yet. It consist of 3 pcs 1.5" steel tubes with a threaded rod inside. If yiu take the top platform thick enoug (30mm) you can use brass plugs so the rods do not stick through te top platform.
Small speakers: 70mm schedule XXS seamless stainless steel construction process pipe (like used in chemical plants and refineries)
I wanted to fill them up with sand but they are already sooo heavy that I didn't. The cables are running through a 3/4 inch inner tube and the filter is in the footing of th stand. The loudspeaker is spiked to the top platform and is fastened with a spike tensioning system (patent pending
)The larger loudspeaker is actually standing on the stands of my rear speakers because they have not been build yet. It consist of 3 pcs 1.5" steel tubes with a threaded rod inside. If yiu take the top platform thick enoug (30mm) you can use brass plugs so the rods do not stick through te top platform.
It is something based on the Clovis GV1. I liked the units and the woodwork of the GV1.
I wanted to make it in solid 30mm wood but the wood was to damn hard to saw with my 700w machine.
I improved on the original design. Biggest change is in the filter wich is now a serial filter. The serial filter improves the sound dramatically in this case, don't underestimate it.
Filters are inspired on the serials filters of the DD8 from Tony Gee and he helped with the measurements as wel
I also made a slanted design, changed the BR to front, reduced the net volume to 14,5 liter and mad a separerate chamber for the tweeter.
It sounds marvelous! , It was a lot of work but it was worth it.
Joseph audio has also used the bass unit in its original RM7 and they were considered much better than the B&W 905
I wanted to make it in solid 30mm wood but the wood was to damn hard to saw with my 700w machine.
I improved on the original design. Biggest change is in the filter wich is now a serial filter. The serial filter improves the sound dramatically in this case, don't underestimate it.
Filters are inspired on the serials filters of the DD8 from Tony Gee and he helped with the measurements as wel
I also made a slanted design, changed the BR to front, reduced the net volume to 14,5 liter and mad a separerate chamber for the tweeter.
It sounds marvelous!
, It was a lot of work but it was worth it. Joseph audio has also used the bass unit in its original RM7 and they were considered much better than the B&W 905
TNT-audio.com has a great little DIY section. Here is the classic "Stubby" stand page, including how it got its name. (Hint, it ain't because of the height!)
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html
Online Metals sells stainless and aluminum pipe in up to 6" diameters.
I don't know what the finish is like.
I don't know what the finish is like.
Soil pipe is a good starting point for stands. It's a bit ugly as it comes from the store (left) but not bad with a bit of 'dressing'.
I use threaded rod so I can tension everything together and tune the 'stand'.
I use threaded rod so I can tension everything together and tune the 'stand'.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Check these out. I have made 2 pairs so far. They have transformed my active tannoys to speakesrs costing $500 to $1000 more once I coupled them to the stands with blue tack.
the top, column and bottom are made out of solid stone. Top and bottom are made out of Arosan (porous marble). The sides are solid walnut. Fairly easy to make and VERY SOLID when complete. The coupling to the floor is done through oak cones.
A word of warning, if you put them on anything soft, they will make a dent.
If you want more details, let me know.
www.mebel-custom.com
the top, column and bottom are made out of solid stone. Top and bottom are made out of Arosan (porous marble). The sides are solid walnut. Fairly easy to make and VERY SOLID when complete. The coupling to the floor is done through oak cones.
A word of warning, if you put them on anything soft, they will make a dent.
If you want more details, let me know.
www.mebel-custom.com
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Here is another variation on pipe stands. I cannot recall ever seeing anyone else who used copper, although I am sure it is not a new idea. I really like the color and sheen of it. I applied three coats of polyurethane and have not had any problems with tarnishing.
There is lead in the base and the pipes are filled with sand. They are spiked to the floor.
There is lead in the base and the pipes are filled with sand. They are spiked to the floor.
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Here are my stands, they are solid 32mm MDF all over, the inside piece is sprayed black and the whole thing is awaiting a polyeurathane spray that will darken the whole thing up and make it look nicer. the centre pieces are glued together with PVA and the top and bottom are screwed on with 4 long screws each. the whole thing is very rigid and can easily take my weight of 85kg.
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It could well be a case of trying several and seeing if any one is the best.
For small speakers I would suggest sitting them on the stands with some sort of weight on top of the speaker. Experiment with anything heavy (a brick?) and if if makes an improvement, look around for an aesthetically acceptable weight like a heavy ornament.
Raw MDF cut in 800 by 120 mm pieces with top and bottom plates. Screwed together without glue and free hand. Stem is 3 pieces as a U shape open in the back. Total cost USD 6 including screws. Estimated building time was just under one beer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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