Hello everyone, this is my first post.
I'm trying to go active. I have 2 Dayton rs180 8ohm, 2 Dayton rs100 8 ohm, and 2 vifa xt19 4 ohm. I have 3 amps, one for bass, mid , high. I also have behringer cx2310 2 way stereo / 3 way mono crossover.
Now the reason why I made this post is I need some advices.
I'm thinking crossing rs180 to 2k to avoid beaming. I'm just nervous to cross vifa xt19 to around 2k area. This will allow me to use stereo mode on behringer.
Second route is use rs180, rs100, xt19. Only issue is I'm not sure where I should cross these at. If you guys know a good starting point let me know. That way I could use adjustable crossover knob to find the sweet spot. The only thing is I be running these 3 way mono. Unless it worth investing another crossover to make it stereo.
I'm just trying to make the best out of these speakers. I'm trying to keep off axis so it can cover more area. I went on Dayton website for frequency response rs 180 best off axis until 1k to 1.5k. Rs100 I'm not sure. I was told vifa xt19 they are good for off axis.
Someone please help me or guide me I'm willing to learn from my mistake. Thank you for taking the time to read or help me.
I'm trying to go active. I have 2 Dayton rs180 8ohm, 2 Dayton rs100 8 ohm, and 2 vifa xt19 4 ohm. I have 3 amps, one for bass, mid , high. I also have behringer cx2310 2 way stereo / 3 way mono crossover.
Now the reason why I made this post is I need some advices.
I'm thinking crossing rs180 to 2k to avoid beaming. I'm just nervous to cross vifa xt19 to around 2k area. This will allow me to use stereo mode on behringer.
Second route is use rs180, rs100, xt19. Only issue is I'm not sure where I should cross these at. If you guys know a good starting point let me know. That way I could use adjustable crossover knob to find the sweet spot. The only thing is I be running these 3 way mono. Unless it worth investing another crossover to make it stereo.
I'm just trying to make the best out of these speakers. I'm trying to keep off axis so it can cover more area. I went on Dayton website for frequency response rs 180 best off axis until 1k to 1.5k. Rs100 I'm not sure. I was told vifa xt19 they are good for off axis.
Someone please help me or guide me I'm willing to learn from my mistake. Thank you for taking the time to read or help me.
Welcome 
As a first step, I would consider the following:
1. Do you plan to build something else in the future, thereby adding to the point of getting a 3 way filter
2. Size of your room, music likings and refrence in sound quality (what have you heard elsewhere and consequently like)
3. Do you have anyone to take into acount when building/designing the speaker - spouse, gf and the like?
XT19 is small and cant go to 2K whitout problems:
http://www.htguide.com/forum/printthread.php?t=12784
And the RS100 is pretty small as well, so I would guess around 500 hz.
But the RS180 could easily reach a prober dome tweeter, so maybe the Dayton, RS28A-4 would be a better option if you would like to keep the current filter.
In a 3 way I would use a bas-driver with more low end. The specs of the RS180 point in the direction of a large midrange. So I think you need to make some choices here
As a first step, I would consider the following:
1. Do you plan to build something else in the future, thereby adding to the point of getting a 3 way filter
2. Size of your room, music likings and refrence in sound quality (what have you heard elsewhere and consequently like)
3. Do you have anyone to take into acount when building/designing the speaker - spouse, gf and the like?
XT19 is small and cant go to 2K whitout problems:
http://www.htguide.com/forum/printthread.php?t=12784
And the RS100 is pretty small as well, so I would guess around 500 hz.
But the RS180 could easily reach a prober dome tweeter, so maybe the Dayton, RS28A-4 would be a better option if you would like to keep the current filter.
In a 3 way I would use a bas-driver with more low end. The specs of the RS180 point in the direction of a large midrange. So I think you need to make some choices here
look at the frequency response plots of all three drivers.
Find the usable range for each driver.
Try to get a first approximation for crossover to get a flattish response for each driver.
eg. suppose the mid is usable from 280Hz to 3600Hz and the treble is usable from 2700Hz. then a crossover @ around 3100Hz might be OK as a first stab.
Find the usable range for each driver.
Try to get a first approximation for crossover to get a flattish response for each driver.
eg. suppose the mid is usable from 280Hz to 3600Hz and the treble is usable from 2700Hz. then a crossover @ around 3100Hz might be OK as a first stab.
tordenguden - I may be willing to build a 3 way. It depends on the budget.
2. Size of room not sure I just eyeballed it say about 10 X11. Rap, country, rock, oldies like Marvin Gaye. Not hundred percent sure on what you saying reference but I'm going say like close to natural balance sounding as possible.
3. I don't have anyone that take in account to. Mean I have family and friends over so if I play the 3 way. I like what you going with using rs180 as midrange. Would it be better sealed or ported? What would be a good Crossover point area unless I just listen by ear to find it best blend. Recommendations for Low bass driver? Would you still recommend if I use rs28 if I'm using rs180 as midrange or is there better match? Sorry if I overwhelm you. Thank you for welcoming me. I appericate the effort you putting to help me.
2. Size of room not sure I just eyeballed it say about 10 X11. Rap, country, rock, oldies like Marvin Gaye. Not hundred percent sure on what you saying reference but I'm going say like close to natural balance sounding as possible.
3. I don't have anyone that take in account to. Mean I have family and friends over so if I play the 3 way. I like what you going with using rs180 as midrange. Would it be better sealed or ported? What would be a good Crossover point area unless I just listen by ear to find it best blend. Recommendations for Low bass driver? Would you still recommend if I use rs28 if I'm using rs180 as midrange or is there better match? Sorry if I overwhelm you. Thank you for welcoming me. I appericate the effort you putting to help me.
Andrew- okay I will look at all the frequency response. Do I need to take in order of the off axis result when combing to get flattish result?
I might give it a try on those crossover point you suggested. I may sell what I'm not using and refix my design to have a better result. Thank you for your opinion and effort on helping me.
I might give it a try on those crossover point you suggested. I may sell what I'm not using and refix my design to have a better result. Thank you for your opinion and effort on helping me.
No problem
What I ment about reference, is if you ever heard a specific speaker that you really liked. For examble Dali, B&W or the like - I'm trying to narrow down what kind of sound you are looking for
Reason to choose 3 way IMO, is to get good dispersion above 500hz. Not that it is essential, but when designing a speaker i believe you have to choose between narrow or wide dispersion. And when going from a 7" to a tweeter it can be more difficult to avoid beaming(narrowing in the crossover area). So that is why I prefer a 4 or 5" midrange. The bigger the driver the more it will beam.
Directional sound - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
But if this is your driver:
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/295-374-dayton-audio-rs180-4-spec-sheet-revised.pdf
Then choosing a tweeter that can hit around 2Khz, might be the right choice. Maybe this one:
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/275-070-dayton-audio-dc28f-8-specifications-46121.pdf
It could be a very good idear to start with a 2 way, and instead of a 3 way, use some money on measurement equipment. Being able to measure frequency response is essential when judging what is going on, when designing a speaker.
What I ment about reference, is if you ever heard a specific speaker that you really liked. For examble Dali, B&W or the like - I'm trying to narrow down what kind of sound you are looking for
Reason to choose 3 way IMO, is to get good dispersion above 500hz. Not that it is essential, but when designing a speaker i believe you have to choose between narrow or wide dispersion. And when going from a 7" to a tweeter it can be more difficult to avoid beaming(narrowing in the crossover area). So that is why I prefer a 4 or 5" midrange. The bigger the driver the more it will beam.
Directional sound - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
But if this is your driver:
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/295-374-dayton-audio-rs180-4-spec-sheet-revised.pdf
Then choosing a tweeter that can hit around 2Khz, might be the right choice. Maybe this one:
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/275-070-dayton-audio-dc28f-8-specifications-46121.pdf
It could be a very good idear to start with a 2 way, and instead of a 3 way, use some money on measurement equipment. Being able to measure frequency response is essential when judging what is going on, when designing a speaker.
I like the sound effects of jl, alpine, b&w, mostly the high end version of these.They just sound more clear sense of realistic sounding, it makes things more enjoyable. That was my original plan of using 2 way but I was concern about the fact of the frequency response of tweeter blending everything nicely. Can you recommend what a good measuring equipment ? If I start over on my budget on getting a 2 way to and measuring equipment.
a sealed midrange gives a very predictable roll-off.
If you adjust the sealed volume to give a Butterworth roll-ff you get a 2pole filter for nothing. Read up on testing a sealed box Q factor.
Then add another electrical Butterworth and you end up with an LR4, ready to match an electrical LR4 from the bass driver.
This is probably the easiest active crossover you can build.
It suits sealed satellites that need a more extended bass.
2K should be fine. If you cross lower, then listen for any distortion from the tweeter, when playing loud.
Some say that this is a good way to start measuring:
UMIK-1 | MiniDSP
I bought on that cost a little bit more, also calibrated, but whit a seperat soundcard and dedicated software. Furthermore I use a tripod that is able to hold the microphone in front of the tweeter/midrange without anything that can reflect the sound - example:
Loudspeaker Measurements
So a good tripod could be a good idear - example:
Millenium MS-2005 - Thomann Danmark
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