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Old 8th May 2015, 05:15 PM   #1
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Thumbs up 3-Way Floor Standing Driver Selection

OK,

I have selected the following drivers based on my limited knowledge of speaker design. I would like some feedback now because I plan to purchase a die for an aluminum extruded cabinet based around the drivers I have listed below.

Quantities are per speaker

QTY 2) HiVi M8N 8" Aluminum/Magnesium Woofer

QTY 1) Goldwood GM-85/8 Heavy Duty 5-1/4" Sealed Back Midrange 8 Ohm

QTY 1) Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

The goal is to have some good looking speakers that sound good too. At least as good as a pair of speakers that would cost around 2K.
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Old 8th May 2015, 06:19 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblinMan View Post
I would like some feedback now because I plan to purchase a die for an aluminum extruded cabinet based around the drivers I have listed below.
$2K wouldn't cover the cost of making the die. Don't understand why you would go this route, unless you plan for a production run destined for retail.

jeff
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Old 8th May 2015, 06:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinylkid58 View Post
$2K wouldn't cover the cost of making the die. Don't understand why you would go this route, unless you plan for a production run destined for retail.

jeff
Goldwood sealed ack midrange ?
Dayton tweeter ?
2 X Hi-Vi woofers ?

you must be crazy ! To reach the 2k value you have to invest money in: some fancy morel woofers, some scan speak/seas exotic midrange and...wait, I heard from the community that SB are quite good!
Then some boutique caps, some flat copper bobbins and real graphite resistors to make the x-over. Don't forget OSFC-LL 99.9999999% pure copper for the wiring...the binding posts would then be extruded from pure-solid copper either
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Old 8th May 2015, 07:51 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by vinylkid58 View Post
$2K wouldn't cover the cost of making the die. Don't understand why you would go this route, unless you plan for a production run destined for retail.

jeff
I work regularly with a extrusion company designing extrusions so the die will not be expensive. Retail? More or less the ability to reproduce the speakers for friends and family easily if they turn out well. After the cost of the die, I'll be paying less than $2.00/lb.
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Old 8th May 2015, 09:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picowallspeaker View Post
Goldwood sealed ack midrange ?
Dayton tweeter ?
2 X Hi-Vi woofers ?

you must be crazy ! To reach the 2k value you have to invest money in: some fancy morel woofers, some scan speak/seas exotic midrange and...wait, I heard from the community that SB are quite good!
Then some boutique caps, some flat copper bobbins and real graphite resistors to make the x-over. Don't forget OSFC-LL 99.9999999% pure copper for the wiring...the binding posts would then be extruded from pure-solid copper either
I am crazy! Seriously though, I appreciate the honesty. A quick look into some of the brands you mentioned and it looks like it will cost me 2K which is not what I would like. Maybe my price example isn't the right way to put it. I want quality sound with a relatively flat response from ~50hz-24khz. Is this more crazy talk?
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Old 9th May 2015, 05:38 AM   #6
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No, it's not a crazy talk and you are on the right way. Ideally you'd want a stiff cabinet for the " power element" - the woofer. So this enclosure would need to be stiff in order of not letting the soundwaves passing thru the walls ; the woofer needs a hole in order to be mounted and at least eight holes in the surround to be fixed. Once you have done that, what's the result ? The woofer membrane is the fragile part ! So it depends on how the pressure from the bacwave is "treated". I would focus on the woofer enclosure only. You can place mid& tw outside; well, hey! "So I would need to put the woofer on the very side of the enclosure in order to reduce the interdistance at minimum ?!" No if you make the wall slanted ...
OR...you can proceed with your idea of putting two woofers and make a cabinet for them. You can then experiment if they sound better vertically or horizontally

The midrange unit would need to be the most better part ! Absolutely not a closed back stell capsule ; many in this forum report the Seas 10 F (...) to be a good performer...it's 4Ω (?); also the tweeter...well, the tweeter...

But FIRST you have to connect electrically all these units and make them well behaving, and if you are not skilled in crossover design is a lost game, as the X-over is "the heart" of a loudspeaker system

I might suggest you a very-minimal series crossover design, and to make that you need : a very efficient midrange ( so, no Seas ) and a tweeter with ferrofluid in the gap.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg series_easy.jpg (39.5 KB, 260 views)
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Old 9th May 2015, 07:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblinMan View Post
I have selected the following drivers based on my limited knowledge of speaker design. I would like some feedback now because I plan to purchase a die for an aluminum extruded cabinet based around the drivers I have listed below.

The goal is to have some good looking speakers that sound good too. At least as good as a pair of speakers that would cost around 2K.
The configuration is a good one but in order to match a good 2k speaker you will need to spend more on drivers and a significant amount on crossovers. If you look here you can see the price of a few examples with your driver arrangement. This suggests around $500-700 would need to be spent on parts.

I assume you do not know how to design a 3 way crossover or choose which drivers will fit and which will not. This is going to take a fair chunk of tiime to learn if you want to design your own speakers but can be fun if you are that way inclined. Of course one or two things will almost certainly be not quite right in the first effort even if you don't immediately spot them and so you should perhaps plan for this.

A viable alternative that avoids a lot of up front learning might be to largely follow an existing published DIY design in terms of driver layout, baffle size, enclosure volume and crossover. Of course not all DIY designs are of equal competence so it might be wise to check if you settle one.
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Old 9th May 2015, 09:03 AM   #8
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If I had a pound for every time I left a link to THIS!

Have a good read of that before you do anything.

It took me forever to get a 2-way sounding good and knowing that a 3-way is supposed to be much, much more difficult - I'm glad I started with a simple 2-way.

It may be worth investigating active crossovers rather than passive. People seem to get good results much quicker than when going passive.
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Old 10th May 2015, 03:50 AM   #9
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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Terrible choice of drivers that the best cabinet in the World can't redeem.

Here's how to do a decent three way:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic

He's using a straightforward Steen Duelund approach. Maybe you could improve it, and a SEAS metal tweeter might work better, but not bad at all.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 3 Way Classic.jpg (61.4 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg Duelund a=2.83.JPG (72.1 KB, 200 views)
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Best Regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
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Old 11th May 2015, 09:30 PM   #10
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I want to thank everyone for all the great info. I will continue reading on drivers and crossover design while I work out the extrusion. Resonant frequencies in aluminum suck.
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