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Old 26th April 2015, 04:19 PM   #1
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Default air leaks in prototype

I am building my first set of speakers that I will actually use - I've done other prototypes before. I am not a good carpenter. I decided to do a an unfinished, rough cut box first, and after I have a good crossover design and my wife decides what she wants the finished product to look like, I am going to recut everything with more precision and finish it.

Unfortunately, I have a few leaks in the box. I can seal these, but to some extent will need to reseal every time I open the box to change the crossover. How much will these leaks affect my measurements for crossover design? I am not worried about any kind of noise not at the frequency I am measuring, I am worried my bass might increase a few db after I do the final cabinets.
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Old 26th April 2015, 04:32 PM   #2
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Sort of depends on how bad the leaks are. Small leaks will make little change to the basic output, but may add moving air noise. Back when I was building Infinity 1001 speakers, we used to "leak test" every cabinet, and seal leaks with hot glue. We'd run 40Hz into the speaker, and run our ears over the seams where leaks were common, and listen for "chuffing".
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Old 26th April 2015, 05:23 PM   #3
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if you're only measuring to 500Hz with an 80Hz box or something it's not going to be an issue, but if you need/want to measure all the way down toward Fc for xover design it might. Don't torture yourself; run all the driver leads out of the box, seal it up, and work on your crossover outside of the enclosure.
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Old 26th April 2015, 07:05 PM   #4
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If this is a rough cabinet for testing, why not make a "hatch" on the back or side, with screws and a gasket or similar non-permanent sealant (window "rope" putty works)??

_-_-bear -- Btw, I don't actually know anything, FYI -- [...2SJ74 Toshiba bogus asian parts - beware! ]
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Old 26th April 2015, 07:51 PM   #5
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Whats about "foam rubber" for reversible mounting. Other leaks can be sealed with wood glue or with a mix of glue and a little sawdust

On prototypes I would like the crossover outside of the cabinet. I think its more easy when they sit on the table in front of me at my prefered listening place.
There is no wife involved and I don't mind the cables...
suus cuique crepitus bene olet
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Old 26th April 2015, 07:55 PM   #6
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Funny, nobody has asked what kind of enclosure.

I think the best design is a large box, lots of pillow stuffing inside, and a good sized leak. It leaves the driver alone to do its best and scrumbles up the rear wave enough to control cancellation and selective dipole behaviour.

The textbook Frankenstein monster of rear waves sneaking around the front and totally destroying all waves below half the wavelength just doesn't make much sense... when you think about it closely.

Current projects: motional feedback woofing and large ESL panels, and just about done getting a large music collection into a FileMaker music server, hundred of CDs now on a tiny 128GB SDXC chip. HiFi aspirations since 1956
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Old 27th April 2015, 12:58 PM   #7
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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Yes, a small leak is OK. It's like worrying that an RF bypass capacitor will roll of the highs. It won't and it needs to be there.

Of course if a leak makes noise, ie chuffing or whistling then deal with it. Weatherstripping works well as a gasket.
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Old 27th April 2015, 01:20 PM   #8
Einric is offline Einric  United States
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I made a cleat all around my rear panel opening.
Then I put a bunch of aquarium silicone all around the cleat on the surface that would contact the removable panel.
Then I placed the removable panel on the cleat with waxed paper between them.
I screwed it all down pretty firm but not completely, just equally all around.
I let the silicone cure overnight and then removed the panel.
A little trimming with a razor knife and now I have a perfect fit silicone gasket.

It worked out extremely well.
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