Thanks a lot Steve!
Taking note of your tweeter polarity instructions. Very precious, although the other box hasn'been opened yet, so I always have an example.
You didn't answer my question re: should I apply the same procedure (wirewound resistor in series with the original value cap) to try and ease the pressure on the Fried Egg tweeters of the Super Linton's?
I guess I'd have to recap them altogether, they still have their Elcap originals.
By the way, these Super Linton's do not bear any model n° as opposed to the ones I still have here (W30D), only S L.
There is also a round sticker with n° 303 on each (358 on my originals): any clue what that means? The 3XP Linton's bear a n°107802.
Clear info is very seldom and confidential about these speakers on the net, and you seem, just like me, to have a sweet spot for them...
Thanks again for the teaching!
Cheers,
Hugh.
Taking note of your tweeter polarity instructions. Very precious, although the other box hasn'been opened yet, so I always have an example.
You didn't answer my question re: should I apply the same procedure (wirewound resistor in series with the original value cap) to try and ease the pressure on the Fried Egg tweeters of the Super Linton's?
I guess I'd have to recap them altogether, they still have their Elcap originals.
By the way, these Super Linton's do not bear any model n° as opposed to the ones I still have here (W30D), only S L.
There is also a round sticker with n° 303 on each (358 on my originals): any clue what that means? The 3XP Linton's bear a n°107802.
Clear info is very seldom and confidential about these speakers on the net, and you seem, just like me, to have a sweet spot for them...
Thanks again for the teaching!
Cheers,
Hugh.
I can only tell you what I know. The Linton came with a couple of broadly similar crossovers. A simple circuit that can work well. Maybe the 8" bass units varied a bit, but the idea is the bass Frequency Response is good in the first place and only needs a bit of shaping. I'd guess the bass was a lowish inductance around 0.6mH to get away with such a simple second order.
Replace capacitors with similar NP 50V electrolytic would be my advice. If you wanted to tame the top end a bit, a 2.2R ought to do it. A single coil on the bass doesn't sound as good as a bass with a coil and a bit of impedance correction or a Zobel or a capacitor. But that is possibly for another day.
You should look and see what you have with the Super Lintons.
Replace capacitors with similar NP 50V electrolytic would be my advice. If you wanted to tame the top end a bit, a 2.2R ought to do it. A single coil on the bass doesn't sound as good as a bass with a coil and a bit of impedance correction or a Zobel or a capacitor. But that is possibly for another day.
You should look and see what you have with the Super Lintons.
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Thank you Steve!
Spent the afternoon yesterday cleaning and repolishing the Super Linton wooden boxes and tried them: they seem to be 100% originals and I was surprised to kind of recovering the sensations of my 20ties listening to them...
Planning to recap them anyway soon, when the Linton 3XP project is over.
By the way, is there any possibility to open and repair a fried driver in a DIY project? Still have a big car stereo Jensen with a lack of bass response...
I'm into something I would never have tried before!
Have a nice day,
Cheers,
Hugh.
Spent the afternoon yesterday cleaning and repolishing the Super Linton wooden boxes and tried them: they seem to be 100% originals and I was surprised to kind of recovering the sensations of my 20ties listening to them...
Planning to recap them anyway soon, when the Linton 3XP project is over.
By the way, is there any possibility to open and repair a fried driver in a DIY project? Still have a big car stereo Jensen with a lack of bass response...
I'm into something I would never have tried before!
Have a nice day,
Cheers,
Hugh.
Hi Steve,
Got the Monacor's today and proceeded to fit them into the 3XP's.
They're a little bit too small to fit the original hole but I will try and make a cut into the original fitting plate and, if I succeed, they will look fine.
The boxes have both been fully recapped, with a 5,6 wirewound before the tweeters and they sound much nicer. But I still have a sweet spot for the Super Linton's...
Once again, I want to thank you very much for your nice help and advice!
This has tought me a lot over a very important part of a HiFi setup!
Cheers,
Hugh.
Got the Monacor's today and proceeded to fit them into the 3XP's.
They're a little bit too small to fit the original hole but I will try and make a cut into the original fitting plate and, if I succeed, they will look fine.
The boxes have both been fully recapped, with a 5,6 wirewound before the tweeters and they sound much nicer. But I still have a sweet spot for the Super Linton's...
Once again, I want to thank you very much for your nice help and advice!
This has tought me a lot over a very important part of a HiFi setup!
Cheers,
Hugh.
It's always a bit of a bitch if the replacement tweeter, here a 92mm jobbie, is too small for the cutout. 
But I figure the real enthusiast will find some sort of solution like a bit of hardboard or even thick cardboard cut to the right size with some bolts or screws!
It's not easy to replace those old Wharfedale 3" mylar cone tweeters. Particularly with the low crossover of the two-way Denton, Linton and Melton. Although the three way Linton 3XP presents less issues due to the higher crossover.
We have had success in the past with the polycone Monacor SPP-90 and a new hacked faceplate to fix the size problem.
SPP-90
TBH, the Linton 3XP is not the world's most sophisticated crossover. It really ought to have a rolloff capacitor at the end of the mid filter to follow the theory better.
But I figure the real enthusiast will find some sort of solution like a bit of hardboard or even thick cardboard cut to the right size with some bolts or screws!
It's not easy to replace those old Wharfedale 3" mylar cone tweeters. Particularly with the low crossover of the two-way Denton, Linton and Melton. Although the three way Linton 3XP presents less issues due to the higher crossover.
We have had success in the past with the polycone Monacor SPP-90 and a new hacked faceplate to fix the size problem.
SPP-90
TBH, the Linton 3XP is not the world's most sophisticated crossover. It really ought to have a rolloff capacitor at the end of the mid filter to follow the theory better.
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Well, pleased to meet another Wharfedale vintage enthusiast! You've done alright with those speakers. We can fix them!Hello System7
I bought these at my local car-boot.Cosmetics not the best but they work.
Having read this thread can I ask you an improved crossover.Your last entry #65.
Let's remind ourselves that they are a three way with a simplistic crossover, and quite likely the drivers are a bit tired and old.
This is quite a good post on three ways using a novel series circuit:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/279278-4-way-series-crossover-accuton-acoustic-elegance-drivers-12.html#post4525459
Here's how you turn the three way into a two way with a monacor HT-22 £6 cone tweeter: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/147632-classic-monitor-designs-26.html#post4454879
Your 3XP's should sound OK, so maybe try to pin the problem down? You can put your hand over mids and tweeters while you listen to hear if there is a dead driver. Maybe the old electrolytic capacitors have died?
Thanks Steve
The drivers are fine....thanks to the guys at wharfedale each driver is available individuallly for checking etc.While I was in there I removed all the caps & tested them with Peak LCR tester.Before you can say Bob's your uncle in went replacements....see pics.Yes I know they are not to schematic but are close.
The drivers are fine....thanks to the guys at wharfedale each driver is available individuallly for checking etc.While I was in there I removed all the caps & tested them with Peak LCR tester.Before you can say Bob's your uncle in went replacements....see pics.Yes I know they are not to schematic but are close.
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