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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Do you think i would still need to do some shelf bracing on the inside of this speaker (front to back) There isnt much of a cavity to speak of (about 12 cm^3 per speaker) and the wood volume is almost greater than the air volume on the inside. I'm planning on using the asphalt based damping sheet that parts express sells for the inside walls (the main reason im using that product is ive still got alot left over from my sub (99% done)) Any thoughts, comments, suggestions?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Washington State, USA
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Sorry I can't address your question properly, but I thought I should let you know that Geocities does not allow pictures to be directly linked - the rest of us only see a red X. (You may see the picture as intended, but only because it is in your browser cache from viewing it ahead of time.) I'd recommend using another host, or perhaps making a small page containing the picture and providing a link.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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sorry about that, i didnt know. Try this link http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chr...fle+line+array click on the one called "plans" (note: this picture has nothing to do with the open baffle plans next to it)
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ok, ive decided to use some 1/4'' hdf i have a sheet of as bracing every 2 speakers (~5'') But now i have another question, is it better to use something like 36 drivers in order to get a near perfect 8 ohms, or can you do 40 and so some fancy configuration with the drivers to get it relatively close to 8 ohms. Will there be any negative effect from doing that (ie harder for the amp to drive the load, differences in volume) If there are going to be differences in volume, wouldnt it work to put the louder sets near the middle to almost simulate the power tapering technique some have used in line arrays?
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