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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Holland, The Hague
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Maybe this 8" Flexunit is a nice compromis. however only 91 db/w/m
You can request for adjusted T/S parameters http://www.flexunits.com/iz.asp?id=4|a|125|||
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Is that all there is? |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
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Vortex,
You might think about a power subwoofer to take care of the bass below 80Hz or so. This will give you a bit wider selection to choose from. Although, high sensitivity and wide bandwidth will still nerrow your search to a only a hand full of speakers. It's more than you have now.
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Rodd Yamashita |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
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Vigier:
BTW: 120 and 8 kHz? Why? I would suggest 200/300 Hz and 3500/4000 Hz. Then you have all the voices through the mid-unit, and it doesn't have to be SO small to prevent standing waves/cone breakup and other annoying stuff I don't really understand the end of it... Let's discuss it in 3 pieces: 1) eg. 250Hz versus 120 for lower x-over freq. why better? 12db/oct. still goes higher pretty much. It means then still more mid range for the low freq. driver which I then try to choose by going for ultra high-quality sound. 2) range of the normal audible speak is the job of the high-subs and midrange of course. that's why I tried to avoid 3-way, because this is the most crital area of our ears, where because of a 3-way filter a phase shift occurs. (still confused, 2-way just sounds amazing for me)3) 3.5K-4K is okay (versus 8) But anyway, it will be 3-way I think. Something like the Visaton Athlas Mk-II (beautiful piece). Let me bomb with another ideas regarding construction. Just critisize me pls... I'd like to do my best which fits my tube amp. Probably I can get out 10W per channel from the 2A3 tubes. It's like some kind of a 50-70 watt conventional amp. I've heard one of my friend's Audio Innovations First 7W tube amp with Audio Note boxes (silk dome tweeter and 8"/20cm paper midbass) and IT WAS REALLY LOUD at a half-turned-on volume !!! Amazingly loud can these tubes perform... but let's go back to the point... still like my old C64 .. LOAD"high-end DIY box",8,1 SEARCHING FOR... |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Hi Vortex,
the reason I prefer 250/300 Hz above 100/120 Hz, is because of the excursion/distortion. If the midrange has to go as high as 4 kHz, it will be a very small unit. It won't be able to go down to 100 Hz. The excursion will be too high. For example the TI100 (as midrange) has a lin. excursion of 3mm (and I can tell you the mech xmax isn't very much higher). It will go over it's lin xmax at 100 Hz with just under 2 Watt! If you use 250 /300 Hz, you can use the full 7W. (excursion is much lower) Grtz, Joris |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
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Aham. Right.
One another question: I like the construction of the Visaton Topas. Transmission line for the TI-100 as I see. They also made the construction of the box with exact data public. Would this box perform quite well if I would a bit make it bigger? To hold all of the angles and not to loose the size to size ratio, I would multiply every data given in centimeters so that finally the same box but something bigger would come out. Would it be a good idea, or shall I forget it ? I also enlarged my father's Carlson-type box 4 years ago which was designed for 8" drivers. I resized and made it again to be able to build a 12" speaker in. It worked well, VERY WELL ! |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Netherlands
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Hi Vortex,
I have the issue of Klang&Ton where the article about the Topas is in. I have no experience or knowledge about horns, so I can't helkp you with this. ![]() Grtz, Joris |
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