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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Recently i bought 42 of the parts express 4'' full range drivers they have on sale for .80 cents or something like that. Since that driver has a nasty spike at 7khz, would doing something like this at least partially cancel out that peak? http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chr...&.dnm=3c54.jpg where a=4.9 cm (equivalent to 7khz) and x is some undetermined length. maby im completely off base here, its just a thought. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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The peak is 9 dB....that's HUGE. Playing around with the baffle won't even get you close. You need to look at things like coating the driver with Damar or Puzzlecoat, adding a passive notch filter, etc.
__________________
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. Enzo Ferrari |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New York City
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Hello. I am so glad to see that I wasn't the only one lured in by those 4 inch Pioneer drivers.
This is my first speaker construction in 25 years. I am designing an open baffle line of 16 speakers each side. Add a pair of Fountek JP3 ribbons for the highs and an old Janis subwoofer for the bottom end. The Pioneers are damped by sticking 2 sided tape inside the metal frames. The cones are lightly doped with Dammar. This smoothes the upper midrange and treble. Luckily, the 7k spike seems to disappear a little off axis so I am positioning the speaker faces parallel to the rear wall. More difficult to fix is the 6 db wavelength-equals-cone-circumference trough at 1400 hz. Does anyone have more clever idea than notch filing? Unless you build a curved array, you will likely find combing above 3400 hz objectionable. It's not just the drooping highs, I find it de-focuses the imaging unless you filter out the top end of the array. I hope this helpful. If you haven't already discovered James Griffin's Practical Guide to Line Arrays, I recommend reading it. Thanks, captpeterchan |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm
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You might want to experiment with the (open) baffle placement using the Edge. Remember large arrays are sensitive to listening distance. If there is a single peak at 7kHz I'd notch it with a passive parallel LCR-circuit.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm
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Quote:
Really? When I try to simulate this, the distance to the edge does *not* seem to be terribly important to the roll-off frequency. Then again I wrote the simulation software myself, but I think it is OK. It appears to me that the baffle width is the most important. ...or am I missing something here? The green curve has the driver array centered on the baffle, the red has it 5 cm from the edge.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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I built a couple of open baffle line arrays last month. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...688#post337688 In fact, I'm on to building another set as we speak. The second set will use a couple of Dayton ribbon tweeters per cabinet. I will confess to being a new array fan (until I build my first horn).
I guess the reason I jumped in on this thread is to say that you should just go ahead and build 'em. From a risk/reward standpoint, you are wagering a sheet of 3/4" mdf. Low side is 30 bucks, high side (veneer) is a C-note. Let's face it, the drivers were below scrapyard prices when we bought them. Maybe you even have some caps 'n coils to play with the x-over. On my first set I capped the tweeters and haven't looked back yet. On the second set, I will invest in some coils and tune them up a little. I am no audiophile, but I like to listen to music, and sometimes I like to listen to loud music. These things are like getting kicked in the chest. So, my own impression is that they sound great. I have had the opportunity to A-B-C them with the Klipsch and JBL's in the picture. The arrays clearly need some bass but they are my clear preference. Step away from the PC and pick up a router. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New York City
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I've already tossed in my two cents of ideas for this particular thread. I just wanted to thank svante for introducing The Edge. In a couple of hours, I had some baffle dimensions for the open baffle line array that I'm working on. Slim trapazoids --- of course??!!! Got some good graphs for the ribbon tweeter and for the 16 Pioneer woofers. Will build and listen before I start playing with compensation. Will be very happy to be no more than 6 db down at 100 hz. Couldn't find a way to just drop 7k hz. Again, thank you svante. This is why I joined up yesterday.
captpeterchan |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I actually built them 2 weeks or so ago, i was planning on putting them in a box, then i realized i didnt have enough mdf on hand, so i saw this sheet of 1/4'' hdf lying there... so in about 3 hours i had the left speaker finished. I used what mdf i had for a rear brace to keep the thing from faling over or bending. I must admit, for $30 they sure sound great.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm
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Quote:
Thx
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Open baffle Line array | carpenter | Full Range | 81 | 21st July 2010 10:50 PM |
| open baffle and/or line array | lolojr1 | Multi-Way | 8 | 7th July 2006 04:47 AM |
| line array open baffle | spkerguy | Multi-Way | 5 | 6th January 2004 08:42 AM |
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