|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Connecticut
|
I've decided to build a 3-way system from scratch. The only decision I've made so far is that I'd like to use JL Audio 10W0 subwoofers, and probably Peerless drivers (no models selected yet).
My knowledge of speaker design is limited to some equasions I found for determining box volume based on Q and Vas. What are the general steps that a designer/builder uses to come up with a good design before making sawdust? And what tuning and measurement steps do you take afterward? I know each builder might have his own methods, but I'm looking for advice on how to proceed with the intention of having better than average results. Thanks for any insights you can offer.
__________________
dave |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SouthEast
|
First, read a good book on the subject of speaker design and building such as Vince Dickason's The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. Also, something like Alton Everest's Master Handbook of Acoustics might prove useful. Second, reconsider your choice of subwoofer. If you know nothing of speaker design, equations, measurement techniques, etc., then how could you have picked an appropriate subwoofer already? If you have several lying around already I suppose that could be a valid reason.
Starting with a 3-way isn't the recommended way of learning the art of speaker design. Most people build a few 2-way systems over the course of a couple of years before attempting their first 3-way. |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
If you're a beginner, I recommend getting an easier book to understand than Vance Dickason's. I would recommend David Weem's second edition book (or if you need an even simpler resource, check out Radio Shack's titles).
__________________
KTK. Kool To the Kore. |
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Connecticut
|
Actually, I have the Radio Shack book and have read it. I also have the JL subs left over from a car audio project.
What's the next step?
__________________
dave |
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
|
Quote:
__________________
Rodd Yamashita |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SouthEast
|
OK, so you've already read a book and seem willing to learn. I'm no expert by any means, so I'll just state the obvious to get the ball rolling.
At this point, you need to answer a few questions that will help direct your design. (1) What are the primary listening uses of the speaker? Music, movies/theater, multichannel or stereo...? What style music? (2) What is your budget for all parts and materials? Do you intend to include software in that budget, spend extra for software, or try to use only freeware tools? (3) What size room do these speakers need to fill? (4) Do you already have an amplifier or receiver that you want to power them? Are you willing to upgrade to a more powerful amp if required? (5) Will they be located in a bookshelf? Can you position them away from walls? Do you prefer the look of floorstanders, or smaller bookshelf + separate sub modules? These questions will help you decide whether to aim for high efficiency, or low cost drivers, or small physical size, or a front or rear ported or sealed system, or some combination of these and similar targets. When you answer these questions, I'm sure others can begin to point you in the direction of appropriate kits, or perhaps even a good starting point for a truly original design. |
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
|
Quote:
After that is when things get more involved, frustrating and time consuming. Read this. From the table of contents find "Articles" then "How to Design a Speaker". |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | ||
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Connecticut
|
Quote:
Quote:
I very much want to design the system myself. Don't want a kit or someone else's premade project. From what I've read, a sealed enclosure suits my tastes. And I really want a 10" 3-way (just because). 1) Primary use is main speakers in a stereo system. All types of music, mostly rock and classical and sometimes HipHop or rap (my kid's music). I like clean midrange and deep bass. My ears suck (too many rock concerts) for highs, but I don't want harsh highs that annoy friends and family. Most often the listening level will be VERY low, ambient music. Once in a while it'll be cranked up. I'm sure this is a consideration on driver choices. 2) Prefer to use freeware computer tools, as I don't intend to do this again. I already have electronic test equipment that I've collected for 30 years (I'm an EE and always been interested in audio). Budget for raw drivers is maybe $250. 3) Room is a hardwood floor apartment dining room 12X16, but that can change. I want these speakers to last me 20 years. 4) Amplifier power is not an issue. In fact my reason for making these is to have test speakers that I can use for my DIY amp project. I intend to use passive crossovers for now off a 20 watt stereo, then switch to active when my amp is built. 5) The cabinets will be floor mounted, close to walls. Do I pick drivers next? Thanks again.
__________________
dave |
||
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SouthEast
|
Looks like a standard 3-way tower will suit your application just fine. The comment about relatively low listening levels is important, as it IMO opens up the possibility of using first order crossovers... at least between tweeter and mid. That would have an impact on suitable drivers.
Your next step, having apparently settled on a sealed 3-way floorstander, is to settle on a "general" configuration that you like. MTM with integrated sub? Standard tweet/mid/woofer tower? First, second, or fourth order slopes? (I'm not too fond of 3rd order, but that is my preference). I'd suggest one of two routes to take at this point regarding the crossover: first order with wide bandwitdh high sensitivity drivers if you want to use that 20wpc channel receiver indefinitely, or fourth order Linkwitz-Riley crossover design with the assumption that the passive network will soon be replaced with a more accurate active one. |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Procedure: Design Crossover | PeteMcK | Multi-Way | 5 | 2nd July 2009 03:14 AM |
| AMC CVT 3030 Bias Procedure | 360freq | Tubes / Valves | 1 | 10th April 2009 03:39 AM |
| Need Sansui TA-300 Bias Procedure | mvarney | Solid State | 0 | 3rd November 2006 12:38 AM |
| posting pictures procedure | larryg | Everything Else | 15 | 9th December 2004 12:03 AM |
| Bias procedure + Schematics cta 501 | bvgoor | Tubes / Valves | 1 | 16th March 2004 09:23 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.11974 seconds (88.81% PHP - 11.19% MySQL) with 10 queries |