Hi everbody.
I'm new in this fantastic forum.
My wife gave me the speakers of my dreams for christmas. They are from 1996 and they were a diy kit from the danish company danish audio technic. Helios HF 275.
the bas is a Scan Speak 18W 85/45.
midrange Seas G17REX/P
tweeter Dynaudio D260.
The crossover is very big. 24DB
I love the design, but i miss some dynamic and they are very difficult to drive. I have been looking for these speaker for a long time. Therefore I have the opportunity to buy a big amplifier or make them powered.
I have always had the opinion the powered speakers has the most dynamic sound. I have been looking af the plate amplifiers from Hypex. Does AS2.100 have enough juice to the tweeter and midrange? Or should I go for the PSC2.400? I would then buy a amp for the basdriver.
Thank you
I'm new in this fantastic forum.
My wife gave me the speakers of my dreams for christmas. They are from 1996 and they were a diy kit from the danish company danish audio technic. Helios HF 275.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the bas is a Scan Speak 18W 85/45.
midrange Seas G17REX/P
tweeter Dynaudio D260.
The crossover is very big. 24DB
I love the design, but i miss some dynamic and they are very difficult to drive. I have been looking for these speaker for a long time. Therefore I have the opportunity to buy a big amplifier or make them powered.
I have always had the opinion the powered speakers has the most dynamic sound. I have been looking af the plate amplifiers from Hypex. Does AS2.100 have enough juice to the tweeter and midrange? Or should I go for the PSC2.400? I would then buy a amp for the basdriver.
Thank you
Driver data: http://www.seas.no/images/stories/vintage/pdfdataheet/h0648_g17rexp.pdf
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/esotec-d260_data.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/18w-8545-00.pdf
That crossover looks far to over-engineered for those drivers...
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/esotec-d260_data.pdf
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/18w-8545-00.pdf
That crossover looks far to over-engineered for those drivers...
Hi,
Your speaker is a 2.5 way, not a 3 way.
The x/o is incredibly badly designed and overcomplicated
IMO, i'm not kidding, the tweeter stuff is just so wrong.
In all respects the x/o design is utterly awful.
Sadly par for the course for DIY outlets, 3 expensive
drivers, so milk the x/o costs as much as possible.
You need 3 stereo amplifers, 1 one them nice for the
tweeters. The rest I can't guess as sadly the speaker
looks like selling artifice to the not well informed.
There is nothing good about the tweeter arrangement.
rgds, sreten.
My advice would be, if there are similar fans of these
speakers, just move them on as original (DIY), and
just simply get something far better in reality.
Messing around with them will destroy any value.
Your speaker is a 2.5 way, not a 3 way.
The x/o is incredibly badly designed and overcomplicated
IMO, i'm not kidding, the tweeter stuff is just so wrong.
In all respects the x/o design is utterly awful.
Sadly par for the course for DIY outlets, 3 expensive
drivers, so milk the x/o costs as much as possible.
You need 3 stereo amplifers, 1 one them nice for the
tweeters. The rest I can't guess as sadly the speaker
looks like selling artifice to the not well informed.
There is nothing good about the tweeter arrangement.
rgds, sreten.
My advice would be, if there are similar fans of these
speakers, just move them on as original (DIY), and
just simply get something far better in reality.
Messing around with them will destroy any value.
Last edited:
LC Audio made this alternative series filter for the Helios.
L C Audio Technology / Serie Delefilter
It's very simpel and cheap to try it out, before you buy six amplifies and a DSP.
Remember to read the description in link number two also.
L C Audio Technology / Serie Delefilter
It's very simpel and cheap to try it out, before you buy six amplifies and a DSP.
Remember to read the description in link number two also.
askelundstrom,
As a suggestion, if you feel your new speakers are missing that 'dynamic' sound, you could always try your hand at making an 'Open Baffle' design using the same drivers and crossover network.
Just keep your original cabinets so you can always go back to what you had before experimenting with Open Baffle if you become convinced it's not for you.
Open Baffle can open up a whole new world in listening to music , with clear dynamics from the bass to mid-bass right through to a very transparent midrange then on to clear and airy treble.
So using a panel the same size as the front baffle of your existing speakers and with the same speaker placement as on the baffle as you have now, you then only need to support it with a frame so it stands upright. The crossover should work as it did, although a few tweaks may be necessary to get it just as you like it. After all, it is DIY Audio.
The downside with a narrow open baffle design is that the bass generally requires bass augmentation by either electronic equalization or through the addition of a powered subwoofer. Having built many loudspeakers in a box I finally came to the conclusion that it is that very thing (..in a box) that kills the natural dynamics and clarity of sound that we are so wishing to hear from our gear.
C.M
As a suggestion, if you feel your new speakers are missing that 'dynamic' sound, you could always try your hand at making an 'Open Baffle' design using the same drivers and crossover network.
Just keep your original cabinets so you can always go back to what you had before experimenting with Open Baffle if you become convinced it's not for you.
Open Baffle can open up a whole new world in listening to music , with clear dynamics from the bass to mid-bass right through to a very transparent midrange then on to clear and airy treble.
So using a panel the same size as the front baffle of your existing speakers and with the same speaker placement as on the baffle as you have now, you then only need to support it with a frame so it stands upright. The crossover should work as it did, although a few tweaks may be necessary to get it just as you like it. After all, it is DIY Audio.
The downside with a narrow open baffle design is that the bass generally requires bass augmentation by either electronic equalization or through the addition of a powered subwoofer. Having built many loudspeakers in a box I finally came to the conclusion that it is that very thing (..in a box) that kills the natural dynamics and clarity of sound that we are so wishing to hear from our gear.
C.M
Kjeldsen's suggestion is the most sensible so far, should yield an easy to driver speaker if quality parts are used; however it appears that the LC Audio xover is generic, i.e. the parts values aren't chosen for the particular drivers in question.....
English version of the page:
http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=26
English version of the page:
http://www.lcaudio.com/index.php?page=26
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