Can somebody educate me on router rabbit bit usage? - Page 3 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 27th January 2004, 05:03 AM   #21
diyAudio Member
 
critofur's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Send a message via AIM to critofur Send a message via MSN to critofur Send a message via Yahoo to critofur
Default more about routers...

Quote:
Originally posted by usekgb
I wound up getting the Ryobi plunge router from Home Depot for $99. It's not the greatest router in the world, but it gets the job done. I also use the Jasper Jig to cut the flush mount first, then cut the hole. You'll have to use a rabbiting bit for now, but I would recommend getting the Jasper if you plan on doing any future projects.

Cheers,
Zach
Hmm, well I got my Hitachi when they had the $25 off $150 or more Hitachi tools, free shipping on orders over $25, and no tax from Amazon.com I also get 3% back for using my Amazon visa so the total price was $129.98. Comes with an edge guide, height adjustment knob and a 1/2 shank 1/2 straight carbide bit. I've got a Ryobi cordless drill which is a great price at $59, but when the batteries died and I found out they cost almost as much as the drill does I upgraded to a Bosch.
I've seen routers die so I think it's really worth it to get the more powerful and better constructed Hitachi. I've also got the Porter-Cable 895 kit 'cause I'm planning on building lots of speakers and I'll like to keep one router on a router table and leave the Jasper jig on the Hitachi.

1/2" shank, yes, get all your bits in 1/2" shank if you can. The Japser Jigs are marked to work with 1/4" cut diameter straight bits so, here's a good 1/4" bit with a 1/2" shank: "Freud 12-102 1/4" Diameter by 7/8" Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/2" Shank". Just search for the part# 12-102 wherever you like to buy your Freud tools from...

The thing I'm having trouble with is finding a bit to with a nice gradual curve to make a wooden faceplate for tweeters. One of the reasons I want to do that is so I can take the face plate off to mount the tweeter as close as possible to the woofer but futher back to time align the phase...
__________________
Critofur
http://www.ohmspeakers.com <- all the folks here are my friends
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2004, 01:24 PM   #22
bgarcia is offline bgarcia  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Princeton, TX
Default Another tip

Bringing this back to the top for a tip I have...

If you'd like the extra flexability to have 1/32" increments using your Jasper, pick up some 'plywood' straight bits. You can find a 31/64" and 15/64" diameter cutters for this purpose. You'll have to do a little math to figure how they'd benefit you. This jig is really flexible, especially when your math skills allow you to quickly manipulate sizes using different bit diameters.

In terms of the 871s, I wasn't comfortable with the tiny bit of 'mdf meat' left for screw holes using a 1/4" wide recess, so instead I used a 1/2" wide recess and notched out an area for the terminal strip.

One last tip, when using this method of routing the rabbet (driver recess) using a straight bit, I don't then turn around and route the through-hole using the jig. I simply cut it out with a jigsaw. IMO, the only reason for a highly precise (and pretty) cutout hole is for its use as reference for a standard rabbet cut. It's much nicer making only one turn with the router.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2004, 08:10 PM   #23
diyAudio Member
 
Timn8ter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
It's also good idea to use a roundover on the back of the driver cutout to allow more air to move off the back of the cone.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2004, 09:24 PM   #24
diyAudio Member
 
critofur's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Send a message via AIM to critofur Send a message via MSN to critofur Send a message via Yahoo to critofur
Hmm, I guess the advantage of cutting the "rabbit" with the jig then using the jigsaw is that you don't have to attach (hold in place) the cutout circle that would be left if you were cutting all the way through using the jig.

But, the jig's marked to use a 1/4" bit and that doesn't leave a wide enough rabbit after you cut out the hole with the jigsaw.
__________________
Critofur
http://www.ohmspeakers.com <- all the folks here are my friends
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2004, 11:04 PM   #25
diyAudio Member
 
Timn8ter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
I never noticed. I cut a rabbet 3 5/8" and 3" for the driver hole. Seems ok to me.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th February 2004, 12:00 AM   #26
Griffer is offline Griffer  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Jim85IROC,

For now, just get a 3/8" rabbet bit with the bearing and cut your rebates. That's as close to 5/16" as your gonna get. Look into getting the Jasper jig; Great tool. Yeah, you can make one, but will it be setup to cut that many different sizes of holes? I think not.

I am of the camp that cuts the opening for the driver, then use a rabbet bit for the flange. You can cut the major diameter with a straight bit, then the minor diameter. Whatever works for you...

Remember, be safe, have fun, and don't forget, there's no right or wrong, just a big gray area in between!!

Griff
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th February 2004, 03:08 PM   #27
bgarcia is offline bgarcia  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Princeton, TX
Default Ooops...

I have to correct myself on my previous message regarding the use of the Jasper jig. Doing some of this so-called simple math, I just figured out that my previous 1/32" increment statement is wrong. Using an odd diameter x/64" bit actually gives you 1/64" accuracy, so finding/using an odd diameter x/32" bit would then give the 1/32" accuracy (by accuracy I mean sizing difference). The good news is that the hole will not simply be bigger or smaller by the same difference as the new bit compared to the 1/4" bit. Ex. using a 15/64" bit will yield a circle that is 1/64" smaller than the pivot hole used, using a 1/2" bit will yield a hole that is 1/4" bigger. Hope this helps.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Rabbit/Panther Thingy KBK The Lounge 2 11th January 2009 03:25 AM
EQ usage skooter Car Audio 29 30th December 2007 09:28 PM
RCA R35, 39 & 57 Terminal Usage... mcelaj Tubes / Valves 1 3rd September 2006 11:14 PM
Usage of BUZ71A ?? SM7UYJ Solid State 8 28th December 2005 05:18 AM
loose rabbit fur for stuffing? shallenn Multi-Way 22 8th December 2002 07:14 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:41 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2