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You could try some epoxy resin glue on both sides of the tear.
But as it's for bass,i recommend you remove the dustcap and put a bit of glue the side next to the tear,because this is the next weak part around the tear,to rip.
Any woofer which has to move a great distance[subwoofer to 30hz] should be reconed because it's likely to tear again in a different place.
I've repaired many speakers like this[but failed to repair subwoofers though].
Will sound a bit different,but not distorted if you use epoxy resin glue to fix it,since superglues are light compounds and tend to 'buzz' when the cone moves,well thats what i've found.
An even better rubbery glue nicknamed 'elephant snot' which is black and lumpy but seems to be stronger than epoxy resin glue,and it's black so it doesn't show up on cones as much.
You could try some epoxy resin glue on both sides of the tear.
But as it's for bass,i recommend you remove the dustcap and put a bit of glue the side next to the tear,because this is the next weak part around the tear,to rip.
Any woofer which has to move a great distance[subwoofer to 30hz] should be reconed because it's likely to tear again in a different place.
I've repaired many speakers like this[but failed to repair subwoofers though].
Will sound a bit different,but not distorted if you use epoxy resin glue to fix it,since superglues are light compounds and tend to 'buzz' when the cone moves,well thats what i've found.
An even better rubbery glue nicknamed 'elephant snot' which is black and lumpy but seems to be stronger than epoxy resin glue,and it's black so it doesn't show up on cones as much.
To be honest, you really need a recone, but for a temporary repair, dab waterproof PVA wood glue on each side of the tear, then cut a little strip of tissue paper, and use a small paintbrush to push this well into the glue. Let it dry, then repeat on the other side of the cone. Let dry for 24 hours before using the driver. I have used this fix many times when I was on the road, both on guitar/bass and PA drivers, it works well and is relatively easy, but no repair like this is permanant.
Maybe try fibre glassing it with a single thin layer one the back side of the driver, wont weigh much at all and will be very strong, even do 3 equal strips on the cone just t spread the extra weight so that the cone isnt out of balance. if you want super lightweight use carbon fibre instead of fibre glass and use thin epoxy as the glue as it is stronger and lighter than oply-whats its.
good luck
good luck
Use a strip of tracing paper and good old white glue on each side. Do it as thin as possible, about 1/4" on each side of the tear. It will weight next to nothing compared to the cone so balance wont be an issue. If it is too wide or thick it will cause the cone to fatigue at that point if it is more rigid that the surrounding area. Its not perfect but it will work.
when i took that pic i forgot to put the camera on MACRO for <60cm shots...now its all butiful!
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I second Bull. Epoxy glue is the best.
I once did a repair using a very sepecial epoxy, PC-7. PC-11 is a slightly more expensive substitute. Very strong.
Spread as thinly as possible to cover the tear, both sides, let stand overnight. I do believe thay you can consider this a permanent repair, at least it seemed that way to me.
I once did a repair using a very sepecial epoxy, PC-7. PC-11 is a slightly more expensive substitute. Very strong.
Spread as thinly as possible to cover the tear, both sides, let stand overnight. I do believe thay you can consider this a permanent repair, at least it seemed that way to me.
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