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Old 7th February 2004, 01:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by RAW
try ported
2- 2" X13.5 in my 14" cube ext. using .75" MDF.
Al, is that 13.5" port length each? If the box is 14" external, 0.75" walls, the internal dimension is only 12.5". How does the port fit?
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Old 7th February 2004, 01:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by RAW
try ported 2- 2" X13.5 in my 14" cube ext. using .75" MDF.
Is this the one I heard at NWDIY 2003? If it is, I would definately recommend it.

Al had 3 downfiring subs in his HT room. He asked me to guess which one was playing. I was wrong! It was the smallest one! He flipped it over to reveal the TB 8" vibrating like crazy!

It sounded pretty damn good, all things considered. I had heard a couple of different configurations using that driver, including dual PRs, and the dual ported definately sounded the best.
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Old 7th February 2004, 02:36 AM   #13
RAW is offline RAW  Canada
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Thats for the kind words.
John chapman and Bob thought I was trying to give those sitting in the front row a cheap hair doo!

Anyway as it has been pointed by Sean that yes the TB ported will just do fine.I think he stayed in the HT room all day talking to Rick till the time of the draw
So he did listen to a few subs that were played that day.As well as the 5.1 Spires.


As for the port yes, they are each 13.5"
well take a 7" piece , glue them in the bottom of the cabinet the a 90 elbow then a 6" piece of PVC.Hand clean out the final 6" piece end to make it not sharp on the inside.I do this just to make a small radius by hand.Not needed but I do it anyway.
the inside of the 90 on the short side is 1.5" for a total on the port of 13.5"
Glue them in place with a poly glue then round them over with a router and a 1/2"round over bit.FLARED PORT.
I can shoot a picture in the AM and post it.

And yes you are correct on the new cabinet size I have for them.
Wait a tube kit coming for the Shiva and CSX 10".
More later.

Al
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Old 7th February 2004, 02:39 AM   #14
RAW is offline RAW  Canada
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I will take this down to Seattle I do think so anyway.

So it will get a samll show against the Tempest designs that will be there.
You going down Sean?

Al
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Old 24th March 2004, 03:18 AM   #15
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I just wanted to thank you for all your help and post a picture of progess. The baffle is 3/4" MDF, all other sides 3/4" Baltic birch ply; cutout is for 100W plate amp. This is with 2 coats of stain; more stain and clear coat to follow.
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File Type: jpg tb740sub.jpg (36.9 KB, 1028 views)
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Old 24th March 2004, 03:44 AM   #16
RAW is offline RAW  Canada
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That is looking very good.

Click the image to open in full size.
Just like this as well.

Al
Let us know what you think of the finished product.
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Old 24th March 2004, 02:07 PM   #17
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Thanks Al.

What is the height of those feet? I was thinking of making up some spikes, but wasn't sure if that was necessary to keep it from moving.
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Old 24th March 2004, 02:16 PM   #18
RAW is offline RAW  Canada
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3" I think
When I do the lock Miter 14" I have a 3.5" foot.


Looking great good work
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Old 24th March 2004, 05:22 PM   #19
DurdyD is offline DurdyD  Canada
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Hi Leadbelly,

I've been following your progress on this as I'm considering something similar. I like the looks of your cabinet and am curious to know what method you used to put it together - can't tell from the picture. I'm guessing miters and splines for the plywood with the MDF baffle set into a rebate. Close?
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Old 24th March 2004, 07:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by DurdyD
Hi Leadbelly,

I've been following your progress on this as I'm considering something similar. I like the looks of your cabinet and am curious to know what method you used to put it together - can't tell from the picture. I'm guessing miters and splines for the plywood with the MDF baffle set into a rebate. Close?
All 6 sides are 45 deg mitres. Of course, not all 12 joints are tight, so I added 10 small braces in the middle of each panel-to-panel joint.

This actually is a twin of another since I and a friend are building 2 simultaneously. The other one actually came out better, all joints tight enough to not need bracing, and I passed that on to him since he is new to woodworking and has hardly any tools.
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