Hey Guys,
I'm in the idea of building a bluetooth speaker for some time now. I wanted something to bring at work that have good sound. I work in a machine shop and theres a lot of background noise (not to loud) so it doesnt need to be super SQ but need to have a good output.
With that in mind I designed the following.
-2.1 System driven by a TPA3116D2 amp
TPA3116D2 50W 50W 100W 2 1 Channels OPA2604 80Hz 500Hz Amplifier Completed Board | eBay
- 2x Dayton RS100-4
Dayton Audio RS100-4 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
- One TangBang W5-1138SMF Subwoofer
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
The Rs100's are in a sealed cabinet of .047 cu.ft
The Subwoofer in a vented cabinet of .5 cu.ft Tuned to 36.5hz
Before I go further in the design, I would like to have your thought. Do you see something wrong. My biggest question is: Do I need a crossover on the rs100? If so what do you recommend.
Thanks 🙂
I'm in the idea of building a bluetooth speaker for some time now. I wanted something to bring at work that have good sound. I work in a machine shop and theres a lot of background noise (not to loud) so it doesnt need to be super SQ but need to have a good output.
With that in mind I designed the following.
-2.1 System driven by a TPA3116D2 amp
TPA3116D2 50W 50W 100W 2 1 Channels OPA2604 80Hz 500Hz Amplifier Completed Board | eBay
- 2x Dayton RS100-4
Dayton Audio RS100-4 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
- One TangBang W5-1138SMF Subwoofer
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
The Rs100's are in a sealed cabinet of .047 cu.ft
The Subwoofer in a vented cabinet of .5 cu.ft Tuned to 36.5hz
Before I go further in the design, I would like to have your thought. Do you see something wrong. My biggest question is: Do I need a crossover on the rs100? If so what do you recommend.
Thanks 🙂
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nice renderings. If you high pass the RS100's, they will sound much better as they won't be subject to the large excursions from the bass content which introduces distortion and reduces power handling. It's too bad the TPA3116 2.1 amps don't have an active high pass feature. It will take a pretty large capacitor to high pass circa 200Hz to 300Hz. You will find those 2.1 amps have a low pass freq way up there.
Interesting that you chose these drivers and this format for a BT box. I recently built a BT speaker box with the RS100's but uses a dual chamber reflex configuration to get 60Hz bass extension. I am using a Sure TPA3110D2 (8 watts) and the BT module from PE. Note that you will need a DC-DC isolated voltage converter to get the power supply from the amp to power the BT module without ground loops. I used a Murata DC-DC converter for this. Tried many things, this was the only one that worked.
The DCR provides a nice full bass with better cone control than simple reflex. When used on a desk or bookshelf near a wall, no BSC is needed. Even with 8 watts, it can get quite loud. Your 2.1 with sub should get much louder if you high pass the RS100's.
Here are some photos of the stereo DCR BT box.
Interesting that you chose these drivers and this format for a BT box. I recently built a BT speaker box with the RS100's but uses a dual chamber reflex configuration to get 60Hz bass extension. I am using a Sure TPA3110D2 (8 watts) and the BT module from PE. Note that you will need a DC-DC isolated voltage converter to get the power supply from the amp to power the BT module without ground loops. I used a Murata DC-DC converter for this. Tried many things, this was the only one that worked.
The DCR provides a nice full bass with better cone control than simple reflex. When used on a desk or bookshelf near a wall, no BSC is needed. Even with 8 watts, it can get quite loud. Your 2.1 with sub should get much louder if you high pass the RS100's.
Here are some photos of the stereo DCR BT box.
Attachments
This design uses the TB sub you have listed. I built one and it is quite good.
Voxel - a mini-sub+
Mike
Voxel - a mini-sub+
Mike
Thanks guys
@xrk971 : I am no expert in crossover. I tried to figuring out for years how they work but I simply dont play enough with them and quickly losing memory of what I read on the internet. Can you Help. Look like a 1st order would need a Huge Cap like you said. Maybe there another option? Can I wire 2 Cap or more together for smaller footprint?
I'm not sure yet what BT board I will use but I think I'm aiming for this one.
Audio Speaker Bluetooth BC05B EVB Board BC05VB [EF03078] - $35.00 : ElecFreaks Store
Thanks for your input on Murata DC-DC converter. Will definitly look onto that.
Nice box btw. What it is made of?
@mikje : Thanks for the link 🙂 .I get the idea from this thread!
@xrk971 : I am no expert in crossover. I tried to figuring out for years how they work but I simply dont play enough with them and quickly losing memory of what I read on the internet. Can you Help. Look like a 1st order would need a Huge Cap like you said. Maybe there another option? Can I wire 2 Cap or more together for smaller footprint?
I'm not sure yet what BT board I will use but I think I'm aiming for this one.
Audio Speaker Bluetooth BC05B EVB Board BC05VB [EF03078] - $35.00 : ElecFreaks Store
Thanks for your input on Murata DC-DC converter. Will definitly look onto that.
Nice box btw. What it is made of?
@mikje : Thanks for the link 🙂 .I get the idea from this thread!
You can make a passive line level high pass filter that goes between the source and amp. In this case it would be between the input op amp that handles the volume control for the 2.1amp. It's a bit tricky as you would have to go in and surgically trim pcb traces and substitute your high pass. It would be two caps and two resistors for a 2nd order filter. If you were to use two 2.0 amps you can do the PLLXO on your own to handle the split properly. You would need an op amp buffer summing junction for the sub or use a dual voice coil driver for the sub driven by stereo amp. More info on PLLXO is here:
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/filters/passiveHLxo.html
All my speakers are made of foam core - the kind they sell for $1 a sheet at the dollar store. 🙂
More info on all my foam core speakers here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/223313-foam-core-board-speaker-enclosures.html
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Old proffesional speaker designer here (worked for a custom lab and trained by infinity designers way back when)...Grab some 50 and 10uf caps and place them inline with your 4Z mid/high. 300/400 6db crossover is about right. Get some (extra 10uf if you need more) cheap electrolytic for testing and some better ones if need after you fine tune. For this application it will be a great starting point, I keep all my designs very simple to maximize sound quality.. I love the new bluetooth stuff, if I had that 40 years ago I would go nuts having fun. Love the project good luck.
Just use a line-level crossover. More amplifier headroom, and better for your battery if you're going portable.
IMHO, its worth using a different low-frequency driver. The TB mini-subs are quite impressive, but need a rocket up them to get any noise out. If its battery-powered, a 6" 4ohm midbass would be better, tuned for a bump in response at 60-80Hz - free sensitivity where its more useful.
IMHO, its worth using a different low-frequency driver. The TB mini-subs are quite impressive, but need a rocket up them to get any noise out. If its battery-powered, a 6" 4ohm midbass would be better, tuned for a bump in response at 60-80Hz - free sensitivity where its more useful.
Except... the price jumps an awful lot. The cheapest 6" mid-bass I could find was twice the price of that Tang Band, and the next one was over $100. But, money isn't everything 🙂 (except when you don't got it...).
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This Visaton can go quite deep for a 6.5 inch driver. It needs a bit of room to breathe, but it might be worth a look.
Visaton W170S-4 6.5" Woofer with Treated Paper Cone 4 Ohm
Mike
Why not trying a bandpass enclosure for the subwoofer part?
I recommend you to take a Gradient W176 in a 0.25 cu ft sealed enclosure with a 0.175 cu ft BR...a lot of bass for a cheap driver in a small cabinet 🙂
I recommend you to take a Gradient W176 in a 0.25 cu ft sealed enclosure with a 0.175 cu ft BR...a lot of bass for a cheap driver in a small cabinet 🙂
Lots of great idea here thanks folks
I'm not going to to use a battery.
Those Gradient woofer look neat. I Will try to design a BP box and see what it tell.
I'm not going to to use a battery.
Those Gradient woofer look neat. I Will try to design a BP box and see what it tell.
Oh, if its only ever going to be mains powered, the Tang Band will be fine. My W6-1139s would soak up ~250w/ch and still ask for more. With today's switching amps, you'll be able to feed in all the power you like.
Chris
Chris
I made a simulation for the Gradient 176-4:
If the bass is not enough for your taste, you can make the BR-opening facing to the bottom, so it sounds "more"...not my kind of listening to be honest!
Instead of using the Dayton in a sealed enclosure you should give it a try in a BR-enclosure...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If the bass is not enough for your taste, you can make the BR-opening facing to the bottom, so it sounds "more"...not my kind of listening to be honest!
Instead of using the Dayton in a sealed enclosure you should give it a try in a BR-enclosure...
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I receive couple of parts. Just testing to see if everything is working. I bought a bluetooth board of ebay and it was garbage. It work but have a lot of electrical noise so I'm going to try another one.
Also finish the final design. Pieces are going to be cut on the cnc this afternoon. 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also finish the final design. Pieces are going to be cut on the cnc this afternoon. 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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