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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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What would you pick and why?
Primarily music listening, no sub, floor standing type speaker. I think I like the orange one. BTW, if you read my other thread, these t/s specs are the average of my 4 measurements, plus PE's tested numbers, plus the numbers from here, http://www.ratch-h.com/ashley.html . |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Los Angeles
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I like yellow. Don't like the sound of ports, esspecially overwhelming ones. I decided to design my speakers according to the flat yellow line except one or two Hz lower. Maybe this wasn't much help.
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Quote:
2) Even the yellow, which is your most damped alignment, would sound too boomy with room reponse added in.
__________________
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. Enzo Ferrari |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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So something like yellow, but with a more even slope down into the 20hz range.
No worries about bass loss due to baffle step? |
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#5 |
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Banned
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keep the box volume of the yellow one, but drop the tuning frequency down to 25Hz...
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
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Quote:
__________________
Rodd Yamashita |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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I agree that you should go with the one that gives you the flattest FR with a nice rolloff. However, I'm really questioning those numbers. Especially the Fs and the Vas. I would guess that the Fs is closer to 40-45 Hz and the Vas is ~57 liter.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Maybe a little more background would be good here.
This is a rework of the Dayton 8 design, The primary purpose is to have good sounding speakers, to increase the SAF factor by decreasing the size of the enclosure, and to learn something in the middle. On the chart, the Blue line is WyaneJ's recommendations for a box, the white is Dave Tenney's, the Yellow is what WinISD defaults to as the recommendation, the Green is QB3 (quasi-butterworth from Speaker workshop), and the orange is BB4 from SW as well. These are Dayton 8" drivers, all specs are after a 24hr break in. They do deviate quite a bit from PE's published numbers. I tested 4, and 2 came from that other site linked in my first post. PE's tested Fs is actually 29.3Hz, and a Vas of 2.04cu.ft I'm also trying to keep the size of the enclosure down a bit. 4cuft is pretty large, and I'd like to keep it between 2 and 3 if I could. Code:
Driver A Driver B Driver C Driver D Ash 1 Ash 2 My Avg 31.317 32.84 34.863 32.892 37.7 41.64 Fs 35.20866667 1.123 1.347 1.269 1.333 1.48 1.151 Vas 1.283833333 0.424 0.441 0.501 0.445 0.479 0.517 Qts 0.467833333 2.762 3.195 3.586 3.351 3.89 2.844 Qms 3.271333333 0.5 0.511 0.582 0.514 0.546 0.597 Qes 0.541666667 0.57 0.55 0.575 0.589 Le 0.571 1.179 1.203 1.225 1.228 L1 1.20875 43.559 48.891 44.2 44.353 R1 45.25075 |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Something is wrong here, this don't look right to me, what Woofer are you using, the ones on the link had a Vas of 41L and a Q of .5, which should make your box too big.
Are these the Dayton 8" #295-310? If so I'd do a 60L tuned to 28Hz with a 4" port. |
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