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Old 10th December 2014, 03:05 AM   #1
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Default Crossover Recap

This should be a quick and easy one. I have a pair of loudspeakers Coral BX-300 (very old). I'm going to replace the original caps, this is what is printed on them "Unicon 1MFD 30WV non-polar" I know I need 1 uf, I was thinking polypro film caps? not sure of the voltage, I also want to get it from Mouser so I don't have to place multiple orders, I have another project too. I found these: QAP2J105JRP Nichicon | Mouser

am I way off here or would they do the job?

thanks
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Old 10th December 2014, 03:30 AM   #2
rayma is offline rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchriste View Post
This should be a quick and easy one. I have a pair of loudspeakers Coral BX-300 (very old). I'm going to replace the original caps,
this is what is printed on them "Unicon 1MFD 30WV non-polar" I know I need 1 uf, I was thinking polypro film caps? not sure of the voltage
These are more for low level circuits, being metallized rather than film/foil. They will likely degrade soon in a loudspeaker passive crossover.
Check with Madisound or Parts Connexion for more suitable parts. The cheapest alternative would be a non-polarized electrolytic type.

Last edited by rayma; 10th December 2014 at 03:36 AM.
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Old 10th December 2014, 03:36 AM   #3
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noted.... so foil film is what I'm looking for. what about voltage? 30v seems low to me but I don't know much. is that what I should gather from the original though?
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Old 10th December 2014, 03:39 AM   #4
rayma is offline rayma  United States
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Originally Posted by mchriste View Post
30v seems low to me but I don't know much. is that what I should gather from the original though?
This depends on how you want to use them. The capacitors should be rated for the amplifier's full output voltage, plus a safety factor of perhaps 1.5 to 2.
These are for the tweeter section?
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Old 10th December 2014, 03:59 AM   #5
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they go to both the tweet and mid. ouput voltage... makes sense I have a schematic, and it looks like just 35 volts, if I'm reading it right. so could these work:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/product17709.html

they are WAY smaller then the orig, plus they aren't axial....
Parts connection is cool thanks! I can't belive the costs of some of these caps! I want quality but not looking to spend more than 2-3 bucks per cap.
I'm getting a bunch of those other Nichicons for my receiver....
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Old 10th December 2014, 04:19 AM   #6
rayma is offline rayma  United States
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Originally Posted by mchriste View Post
http://www.partsconnexion.com/product17709.html

they are WAY smaller then the orig, plus they aren't axial....
These are probably not high enough current for a crossover.
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Old 10th December 2014, 04:23 AM   #7
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how about...
ClarityCap PX Series Film Capacitor

in the 1 uf?
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Old 10th December 2014, 09:04 AM   #8
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I'd stick with nearest equivalents -i.e. NPE type.
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Old 10th December 2014, 09:28 AM   #9
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I'm with Scott. a 1uF electrolytic will have a quite high esr compared to a 1uF film cap. This will be having an effect. If you remove that ESR (effective series resistance) it will quite likely alter the characteristics of the crossover.

At best it might cause a slight change in the crossover frequency, more serious is if the ESR is actually damping a resonance. Remove or dramatically reduce that resistance and your cap and coil may resonate quite strongly causing peaking.

Mouser doesn't appear to have any axial BP electros, but these would be suitable UDB1H010MPM Nichicon | Mouser

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Old 10th December 2014, 11:08 AM   #10
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being metallized rather than film/foil. They will likely degrade soon in a loudspeaker passive crossover.
??? Check what kind of technology sports also expensive caps for crossover like Jantzen Superior Z-Cap or Audyn Cap Plus. I'm not suggesting you have to use those boutique caps, but that metalized polypropylene is a good technology for your purpose.

As for the debate of NPE vs Film cap in replacing old NPE ones, given the small cost of a 1uF audio entry point poly cap (1-3$), I would buy both a poly and a NPE cap, install first the poly and only in case of problems switch to the NPE. The reason I prefer the poly is that they don't change in vale over time and have better tolerances.

Ralf
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