I am planning to build a sub enclosure which uses internal braces with circles cut out. I have a rotozip in which I can use to cut the circles out but I need to know how to round the edges like this picture. I think I need a router with a round-over bit but what else do I need? A router table? How do I keep it so that it routes the circle perfectly? I don't free hand it do I? Is there a tool that can do this for me? Also how to I flush mount my drivers? What tool do I use to do this? Please let me know. Thank you.
-Ed
-Ed
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You do not need a router table for this operation.
You need a router, the correct router bits, and a special circle-cutting jig. These can be found at Parts Express, or you can hack one up from acrylic for less $ and more time.
My dad and I make speaker cutouts with this method (an acrylic circle-cutting router jig) and it works very, very well. Used with the roundover bit, the end result is very pro.
Good luck to you!
You need a router, the correct router bits, and a special circle-cutting jig. These can be found at Parts Express, or you can hack one up from acrylic for less $ and more time.
My dad and I make speaker cutouts with this method (an acrylic circle-cutting router jig) and it works very, very well. Used with the roundover bit, the end result is very pro.
Good luck to you!
Check this thread out, and this one.
A couple of points. Firstly, there is no [real] functional advantage of making your bracing holes pretty, rounded over, or even very neat - unless you plan on being able to see through the cabinet walls.
Secondly, the recess for flush mounting in the second pic is simply two pieces of wood with different diameter cutouts. I use a router set to the required plunge depth and the circle cutting jig to make the recess more accuratly. Alternatively you could use a rabbeting bit.
A couple of points. Firstly, there is no [real] functional advantage of making your bracing holes pretty, rounded over, or even very neat - unless you plan on being able to see through the cabinet walls.
Secondly, the recess for flush mounting in the second pic is simply two pieces of wood with different diameter cutouts. I use a router set to the required plunge depth and the circle cutting jig to make the recess more accuratly. Alternatively you could use a rabbeting bit.
A simple trimmer (non-plunging router) tool works fine here. The router bits used have a ball bearing on the end of the bit which guides the tool around the hole. You can get bevelled, stepped, curved bits etc to produce the required profile - and it can all be done by hand quickly and accurately.
Cheers
Cheers
Vikash said:
Nice.
I didn't even notice that was a brace board in the first, and you definently caught that second one.
I have seen the second method several times. Very effective and cheap. Two layers together is stronger that one solid piece of same thickness, plus no special tools required.
Centauri said:
This sounds like exactly what I am looking for. My question is, can I use a plunging router to do this same thing? Can I turn a plunge router to a edge trimmer? Can the ball bearing bits used on a trimmer be used on a plunge router to do the same thing? Please let me know. Thank you.
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If you have a drillpress, you can make the recessed mounting for the drivers with a sanding drum. I am currently making a pair of Tony Gee's HATT speakers and made all driver holes and recesses with a drillpress.
To make the driver cutout, I used a 1" diameter wood boring bit and drilled out the circumerence of the circle and then smoothed it out with a 50 grit 1.5" diameter sanding drum. Then, I set the table of the drillpress so that the sanding drum would cut at the appropriate depth and sanded away following a tracing of the driver's circumference.
A few notes about this:
1) a 50 grit sanding drum works very quickly and very well, but produced tremendous dust. I held the hose of my shop vac just behind the drum as I worked to suck up the dust. Otherwise, you get covered!
2) an 80 grit sanding drum won't make anything but smoke! Stick to a 50 grit drum.
3) Set your drill press to its highest speed setting before using the sanding drum for cut outs.
4) This method probably won't work with a large speaker or large front baffle. The HATT's are pretty small speakers.
Eric
To make the driver cutout, I used a 1" diameter wood boring bit and drilled out the circumerence of the circle and then smoothed it out with a 50 grit 1.5" diameter sanding drum. Then, I set the table of the drillpress so that the sanding drum would cut at the appropriate depth and sanded away following a tracing of the driver's circumference.
A few notes about this:
1) a 50 grit sanding drum works very quickly and very well, but produced tremendous dust. I held the hose of my shop vac just behind the drum as I worked to suck up the dust. Otherwise, you get covered!
2) an 80 grit sanding drum won't make anything but smoke! Stick to a 50 grit drum.
3) Set your drill press to its highest speed setting before using the sanding drum for cut outs.
4) This method probably won't work with a large speaker or large front baffle. The HATT's are pretty small speakers.
Eric
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