Hello to the mighty audiophile community of this highly respected (by me, and not only) forum!
Here's the deal.
I own a pair of DIY 2way speakers, consisting of a full range Visaton FRS8 and TVM ARN 226/07. The crossover is 2nd order at cut off frequency - 600Hz. As you can guess, the coils and the capacitors for the filters are too expensive because of the huge values, calculated for this cut off freq. That's why I invested in cheap low quality electrolytic capacitors which ruin the sound quality.
I am planning to rip the crossovers and go true biamping. I don't mean bi-wiring, or passive bi-ambing.
So I read the Rod Elliot's articles for bi amping. The four amplifiers are not a problem, as I have them already. The active x-over is easy to get as well. I can buy a nice and realively cheap kit where I live.
The issue is the cut-off frequency and balancing the gain/power of the amplifiers.
My question is: since at frequency ~350Hz (according to the Elliot's article) the power distribution between the LF and HF drivers is equal, does this mean I can use four identical amplifiers for each driver (if we assume the sensitivities of the drivers are equal)?
Here's the deal.
I own a pair of DIY 2way speakers, consisting of a full range Visaton FRS8 and TVM ARN 226/07. The crossover is 2nd order at cut off frequency - 600Hz. As you can guess, the coils and the capacitors for the filters are too expensive because of the huge values, calculated for this cut off freq. That's why I invested in cheap low quality electrolytic capacitors which ruin the sound quality.
I am planning to rip the crossovers and go true biamping. I don't mean bi-wiring, or passive bi-ambing.
So I read the Rod Elliot's articles for bi amping. The four amplifiers are not a problem, as I have them already. The active x-over is easy to get as well. I can buy a nice and realively cheap kit where I live.
The issue is the cut-off frequency and balancing the gain/power of the amplifiers.
My question is: since at frequency ~350Hz (according to the Elliot's article) the power distribution between the LF and HF drivers is equal, does this mean I can use four identical amplifiers for each driver (if we assume the sensitivities of the drivers are equal)?
You can certainly use identical amps, doesn't really matter where the crossover frequency is. If the xover is at 600 or higher, then the amp on the tweeter won't have to work as hard. Big deal.
If your amps don't have gain controls, you can build those into the crossover. Easy.
If your amps don't have gain controls, you can build those into the crossover. Easy.
Thank you for the promt response.
I own two identical stereo amps, based on LM1875 gainclones. Also have a beefy solid state amp on +-42V.
The thing I just can't figure out is how do I balance the gains/powers between the lows and highs, in order to achieve accurate sound. Is it just a matter of personal taste or there is a mathematical/theoretical/measuring way to do it.
It seems "optimal balance" it is even possible, as I found multiple threads on the net from people asking the same question.
Greetings!
I own two identical stereo amps, based on LM1875 gainclones. Also have a beefy solid state amp on +-42V.
The thing I just can't figure out is how do I balance the gains/powers between the lows and highs, in order to achieve accurate sound. Is it just a matter of personal taste or there is a mathematical/theoretical/measuring way to do it.
It seems "optimal balance" it is even possible, as I found multiple threads on the net from people asking the same question.
Greetings!
You can certainly use identical amps, doesn't really matter where the crossover frequency is.
If your amps don't have gain controls, you can build those into the crossover. Easy.
Yes, even with identical amps you'll want to trim the relative driver levels.
The crossover should let you adjust the gain for the highs and lows. Even though your amps might be identical, the high and low drivers have different efficiencies and so need more or less gain. I did the same thing years ago and I'll never go back to passive crossovers. I used a microphone and measurement to start with, trying to get the levels even across the full range of frequencies. Then I spent a few years tweaking things, which is one of the joys of active crossovers. The improvement it brings to the sound really is dramatic, and you'll have so much more control.
Hi
once I read an interesting article at Linkwitz Lab online.
Accurate Stereo Performance
Maybe it works if you use this method for finding the correct levels.
Use a known music sample for the first rough setting and take it from there.
Costs nothing but time.
Just an idea.
once I read an interesting article at Linkwitz Lab online.
Accurate Stereo Performance
Maybe it works if you use this method for finding the correct levels.
Use a known music sample for the first rough setting and take it from there.
Costs nothing but time.
Just an idea.
As always your mileage may vary.
I once built an Active Crossover for my Tannoys.
A bespoke V well designed gizmo that proved surprisingly pricey for the parts alone. Yesss It worked.. after gain /level adjustments.
Somewhat simplified by the Purpose designed for my Exact drivers Active circuits.
Oddly the sounds while Better than the Passive (albeit well tweaked) crossovers was small.. at best.
Small enough so that I've reverted to the passives
Easier setup / less hassle to use at minimal to no audible disadvantage.
Likely an atypical situation.
I would guess that the lower one goes down the driver quality ladder the more the differences manifest.
As in biggest sound gains occur in the lowest Speakers.
PS; one can also fit Passive crossovers between source/preamps and the Power amps. A powered active crossover is just a variant type.
Just my 2 cents
I once built an Active Crossover for my Tannoys.
A bespoke V well designed gizmo that proved surprisingly pricey for the parts alone. Yesss It worked.. after gain /level adjustments.
Somewhat simplified by the Purpose designed for my Exact drivers Active circuits.
Oddly the sounds while Better than the Passive (albeit well tweaked) crossovers was small.. at best.
Small enough so that I've reverted to the passives
Easier setup / less hassle to use at minimal to no audible disadvantage.
Likely an atypical situation.
I would guess that the lower one goes down the driver quality ladder the more the differences manifest.
As in biggest sound gains occur in the lowest Speakers.
PS; one can also fit Passive crossovers between source/preamps and the Power amps. A powered active crossover is just a variant type.
Just my 2 cents
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The crossover should let you adjust the gain for the highs and lows. Even though your amps might be identical, the high and low drivers have different efficiencies and so need more or less gain.
In my case
HF (full range) sensitivity - 82 dB (1 W/1 m)
LF - 88 dB (1 W/1 m)
The 6dB difference should be balanced by lifting the gain of the HF 1.995 (roughly 2) times. Calculated 1.995 voltage gain is 6db.
@Joschl - Thank you for the useful article. It will be of great use when the xovers are available and I start doing the tweaks
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