Hi,
I was looking at building the Proac 2.5 clone, but then the Scan-speak Event caught my eye.. The event is a 2 way TL based on the SS 18W/8535 and 2905/9300. Looks a lot like the Response 2.5 but the big difference is the TL design.
Using Martin King's worksheets and the enclosure dimensions listed I get an f3 of about 30Hz for the Event, which is niiice, but I can't find a published response curve for the end result, or any reviews whatsoever.
I'm wondering if anyone can offer any advice or reviews of this particular design? I like the TL approach in particular due to the non-resonant enclosure, and over the Proac in particular which has basically a square cross-section and much raging discussion over the xover.
Any and all comments appreciated,
Thx
I was looking at building the Proac 2.5 clone, but then the Scan-speak Event caught my eye.. The event is a 2 way TL based on the SS 18W/8535 and 2905/9300. Looks a lot like the Response 2.5 but the big difference is the TL design.
Using Martin King's worksheets and the enclosure dimensions listed I get an f3 of about 30Hz for the Event, which is niiice, but I can't find a published response curve for the end result, or any reviews whatsoever.
I'm wondering if anyone can offer any advice or reviews of this particular design? I like the TL approach in particular due to the non-resonant enclosure, and over the Proac in particular which has basically a square cross-section and much raging discussion over the xover.
Any and all comments appreciated,
Thx
I have the 2.5 clones and love them. The " raging discussion " of the crossover has been a real plus to the owners of these. Using the results you can voice the speakers to your own room, components , and taste. Better than the original designer that has to comprimise for best results in an "average" setting.
Regardless of which you build I VERY STRONGLY SUGGEST to place the crossover outside the box or in an otherwise reachable place to tweak the crossover to your liking.
Regardless of which you build I VERY STRONGLY SUGGEST to place the crossover outside the box or in an otherwise reachable place to tweak the crossover to your liking.
I agree with the above. It may take some getting right but all the information about XO just provides more choices. Mind you it can drive you mad trying to get it perfect! The 2.5 is as good as any thing and above all else it is easy to build (as easy as it can be). Relatively good value, great sound, lots of help out there, easily changed to suit your tastes and elegant. What more can you want in a project? Well worth the effort – you won’t be disappointed.
Disabled Account
Joined 2003
don't be concerned over XOs versions- they're all very good! and really there's only 3 to choose from - the original from the geocities website, the V6 iterations if u want a more neutral sound (i find the raspy treble very exciting but harsh on some recordings), or like me, you want to use the 9500 tweeter (more versatile tweeter that could always be used for other projects)
i have Troel's 8535/9500 CO in a geocities cabinet- followed it's cabinet dimensions, port tuning, wall damping and dacron lining perfectly. No tweaks, and it sounds splendid. true the midrange isn't with best of the 3 way speakers, and although it's considered it's greatest weakness, it certainly isn't BAD or intolerable.
it still has the musicality, sweetness AND bass to shock non hi-fi buffs.
i placed the crossover internally, but right behind the drivers so that i may make minor changes (tweeter level) if necessary. in retrospect it wasn't necessary since it sounds great straight away!
stick with the correct damping and dacron and leave the guesswork for other things.
i have Troel's 8535/9500 CO in a geocities cabinet- followed it's cabinet dimensions, port tuning, wall damping and dacron lining perfectly. No tweaks, and it sounds splendid. true the midrange isn't with best of the 3 way speakers, and although it's considered it's greatest weakness, it certainly isn't BAD or intolerable.
it still has the musicality, sweetness AND bass to shock non hi-fi buffs.
i placed the crossover internally, but right behind the drivers so that i may make minor changes (tweeter level) if necessary. in retrospect it wasn't necessary since it sounds great straight away!
stick with the correct damping and dacron and leave the guesswork for other things.
Hi grhamel
I have an orignal copy from Elektur Magazine "Hi-Fi-luidspekers 9"with FR and waterfall plots of the Event I can e-mail you as soon I get scanned files
You can also ask to Event designer Rolf Smulders on www.audiocomponents.nl, info@audiocomponents.nl
Hope it helps
JC
I have an orignal copy from Elektur Magazine "Hi-Fi-luidspekers 9"with FR and waterfall plots of the Event I can e-mail you as soon I get scanned files
You can also ask to Event designer Rolf Smulders on www.audiocomponents.nl, info@audiocomponents.nl
Hope it helps
JC
Hello, If you scanned the articel from the Elektuur, I also would like to receive a copy. I have got the Event, but I don't have any measerements.
Regarding the Event I am very happy with them. I have made a slight adjustment at the crossover (got rid of the capacitor parallel to the woofer). This gives the higher mid a little more body.
Regarding the Event I am very happy with them. I have made a slight adjustment at the crossover (got rid of the capacitor parallel to the woofer). This gives the higher mid a little more body.
Hi grhamel
I´m playing with Mathcad Explorer8 and MJK worksheets in a enclosure similar to Event but with a Vifa PL18 woofer. My questions are:
What WS are you using, Mass-loaded, Off-set?
From Event enclosure drawing what line lenght and driver ratio did you figure to plug in the worksheet?
How did you plug stuffing values?
TIA,
JC
I´m playing with Mathcad Explorer8 and MJK worksheets in a enclosure similar to Event but with a Vifa PL18 woofer. My questions are:
What WS are you using, Mass-loaded, Off-set?
From Event enclosure drawing what line lenght and driver ratio did you figure to plug in the worksheet?
How did you plug stuffing values?
TIA,
JC
JC Fardo said:
Hi JC,
Apologies for the long delay, pls see my email regarding Event plots, and thx!.
Re MJK's worksheets, I'm using the offset driver sheet, line length 74inch, driver ration 5.8:1, s0=2.9Sd, SL=0.45Sd, stuffing 0.1 lb/foot.
I had some some chats with MJK himself and he recommends that the final 1/3 of the line be unstuffed - this permits most of the bass to be recovered.
Thanks & Regards,
Greg
Disabled Account
Joined 2003
Events
Well it's been years now since I made inquiries about the Event design here, but I recently came across a pair of Scan Speak 18W8535's on eBay, and I thought to heck with it I'm building a pair of Events
After sourcing the mid-woofer on eBay everything else quickly showed up there too, including a pair of D2905/9300's, high quality x-over components (Auricaps and 12 gauge flat copper inductors for the woofs), spikes, terminal posts/cups; screws, dampening/gasketing materials, etc. eBay is pretty much a speaker builders heaven. All of the parts came in at 1/3 to 1/2 of the retail cost so the grand total for the finished project was about $600 CAD, which is a lot less than the retail cost of the drivers alone.
I left the design mostly as is but made the exterior dimensions about 4" taller to accommodate the rather large crossover and left things open at the bottom for permanent access to the x-over. I've also added 3 additional dowels for cabinet bracing to the 2 in the design; and I've extended the front to back dowels through the TL baffle to the back to add bracing there. After several weeks of listening (before veneering) I decided that I had probably not put enough dampening material on the interior so I added the additional dowels front to back and side to side to deaden some 'live' areas of the cabinet.
With 8 side/top/bottom bevels per box there are a total of 13 pieces of veneer per speaker (excluding the bottom, which is open to the x-over), and if you plan to incorporate the top to bottom/front to back edge bevel into this design be warned that veneering gets *very* challenging if you want to machine every side of every piece of veneer. I found that I needed a very long flush cutting router bit and a great deal of creativity with the router and with the table saw to get it done.
The boxes as pictured are Cherry and Eucalyptus veneer with 2 applications of mahogany red stain, and they weigh in at about 70 lbs each using 1" MDF front/back and 3/4 everywhere else. (The design actually calls for 7/8 everywhere but I couldn't find that here).
As for the sound I'm currently using a 100W/channel AKSA-100+ kitset amp with independent 300VA supplies, which still seems to get rave reviews, fronted (for now) by a Harmon/Kardon integrated amp (of which I'm using the pre) and an HK CD player. Although the source and pre are unexceptional the combination is still very satisfying. I tend to listen to a mix of Jazz, Classical and Pop and I have to say that these things seem to be designed for acoustic bass, piano and vocals. Bass is deep and analytical; mids and highs are crisp and natural - piano and vocals in particular come through wonderfully - Holly Cole is in your face - and the crossover seems invisible. Overall this design seem very balanced, and I'm planning to replace the HK gear with a tube pre-amp to get some of that tube warmth into the mix.
The only downside I see at the moment is that the 8535's don't have the same linear x-max as other speakers (notably the 8545's), so they do strain at high volume and won't be appropriate for very high listening volumes or very large rooms. In a moderate sized room they are plenty loud though - I had to remove things from the walls that were rattling at high volume.
Overall these seem to be a great design and I'm very pleased with the result
Well it's been years now since I made inquiries about the Event design here, but I recently came across a pair of Scan Speak 18W8535's on eBay, and I thought to heck with it I'm building a pair of Events
After sourcing the mid-woofer on eBay everything else quickly showed up there too, including a pair of D2905/9300's, high quality x-over components (Auricaps and 12 gauge flat copper inductors for the woofs), spikes, terminal posts/cups; screws, dampening/gasketing materials, etc. eBay is pretty much a speaker builders heaven. All of the parts came in at 1/3 to 1/2 of the retail cost so the grand total for the finished project was about $600 CAD, which is a lot less than the retail cost of the drivers alone.
I left the design mostly as is but made the exterior dimensions about 4" taller to accommodate the rather large crossover and left things open at the bottom for permanent access to the x-over. I've also added 3 additional dowels for cabinet bracing to the 2 in the design; and I've extended the front to back dowels through the TL baffle to the back to add bracing there. After several weeks of listening (before veneering) I decided that I had probably not put enough dampening material on the interior so I added the additional dowels front to back and side to side to deaden some 'live' areas of the cabinet.
With 8 side/top/bottom bevels per box there are a total of 13 pieces of veneer per speaker (excluding the bottom, which is open to the x-over), and if you plan to incorporate the top to bottom/front to back edge bevel into this design be warned that veneering gets *very* challenging if you want to machine every side of every piece of veneer. I found that I needed a very long flush cutting router bit and a great deal of creativity with the router and with the table saw to get it done.
The boxes as pictured are Cherry and Eucalyptus veneer with 2 applications of mahogany red stain, and they weigh in at about 70 lbs each using 1" MDF front/back and 3/4 everywhere else. (The design actually calls for 7/8 everywhere but I couldn't find that here).
As for the sound I'm currently using a 100W/channel AKSA-100+ kitset amp with independent 300VA supplies, which still seems to get rave reviews, fronted (for now) by a Harmon/Kardon integrated amp (of which I'm using the pre) and an HK CD player. Although the source and pre are unexceptional the combination is still very satisfying. I tend to listen to a mix of Jazz, Classical and Pop and I have to say that these things seem to be designed for acoustic bass, piano and vocals. Bass is deep and analytical; mids and highs are crisp and natural - piano and vocals in particular come through wonderfully - Holly Cole is in your face - and the crossover seems invisible. Overall this design seem very balanced, and I'm planning to replace the HK gear with a tube pre-amp to get some of that tube warmth into the mix.
The only downside I see at the moment is that the 8535's don't have the same linear x-max as other speakers (notably the 8545's), so they do strain at high volume and won't be appropriate for very high listening volumes or very large rooms. In a moderate sized room they are plenty loud though - I had to remove things from the walls that were rattling at high volume.
Overall these seem to be a great design and I'm very pleased with the result
Attachments
Necromancy -- reviving long dead threads. Hi all.
About ten years ago I got hold of a set of 18W8535s and found the Event plans. Ordered some cut and radiused MDF, a bit OTT at 32mm thick (I made everything 20mm bigger on the outside to preserve the inside dimensions.
Then things happened and so on and so forth, but I am at last revisiting this -- figuring out how to dowel the whole thing together so I don't have holes on the outside, etc.
If any of you guys still have the Elektuur / Elektor scans or any other info I'd be grateful. I'll post here when I'm done (maybe in another 10 years' time
Wouter in South Africa
About ten years ago I got hold of a set of 18W8535s and found the Event plans. Ordered some cut and radiused MDF, a bit OTT at 32mm thick (I made everything 20mm bigger on the outside to preserve the inside dimensions.
Then things happened and so on and so forth, but I am at last revisiting this -- figuring out how to dowel the whole thing together so I don't have holes on the outside, etc.
If any of you guys still have the Elektuur / Elektor scans or any other info I'd be grateful. I'll post here when I'm done (maybe in another 10 years' time
Wouter in South Africa
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