Gday all got some 2 way speakers already that a mate built for me, and now i have been bitten by the bug after modding some cheaper speakers.
Looking to build some speakers to match my existing 2 ways But looking to make them 3 ways and needing some help.
Existing 2 ways
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The drivers I'm looking at are Dayton DC28F tweeter, Tang Band W5704D woofer, to match the 2 ways but add the Tang Band W51138SMF for the sub.
Also I used the information from the "Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement" but having trouble to make that work for a 3 way setup
Any help would be great, thanks in advance
Looking to build some speakers to match my existing 2 ways But looking to make them 3 ways and needing some help.
Existing 2 ways
The drivers I'm looking at are Dayton DC28F tweeter, Tang Band W5704D woofer, to match the 2 ways but add the Tang Band W51138SMF for the sub.
Also I used the information from the "Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement" but having trouble to make that work for a 3 way setup
Any help would be great, thanks in advance
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Ok so i think i might have made some ground on the crossover design but would be keen to get a second opinion. The drivers are as follows
Dayton DC28F8 8ohm 89dB Re:5.5ohm Fs:637.2Hz Range:1300-20000
Tang Band W5-704D 8ohm 88dB Re:6ohm Fs:55Hz Range:45-1500Hz Le:0.06mH
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 4ohm 82dB Re:3.4ohm Fs:45Hz Range:45-1500Hz Le:0.34mH
and here's a rough drawing of the plan for the crossover
[/URL][/IMG]
Any help would be great
Dayton DC28F8 8ohm 89dB Re:5.5ohm Fs:637.2Hz Range:1300-20000
Tang Band W5-704D 8ohm 88dB Re:6ohm Fs:55Hz Range:45-1500Hz Le:0.06mH
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 4ohm 82dB Re:3.4ohm Fs:45Hz Range:45-1500Hz Le:0.34mH
and here's a rough drawing of the plan for the crossover
Any help would be great
Tracti,
you would make easier on yourself if you used a simulation program
like these:
Jeff Bagby's Software Page
http://libinst.com/Xsim/XSimSetup.exe
Downloads
You would need frd and zma files which are txt files of measured
FR and Impedance, either on an "infinite" baffle as manufacturers
usually do or maybe in some kind of box. You would be better off
making your own measurements and using these for simulating.
Some parts values on your schematic make sense and others not much.
You do know that you should pad midrange and tweeter considerably
down to meet the small sub. Doing by the "Introduction ..." guide is
fine for getting a feeling what's going on but would not suffice for
making it final.
you would make easier on yourself if you used a simulation program
like these:
Jeff Bagby's Software Page
http://libinst.com/Xsim/XSimSetup.exe
Downloads
You would need frd and zma files which are txt files of measured
FR and Impedance, either on an "infinite" baffle as manufacturers
usually do or maybe in some kind of box. You would be better off
making your own measurements and using these for simulating.
Some parts values on your schematic make sense and others not much.
You do know that you should pad midrange and tweeter considerably
down to meet the small sub. Doing by the "Introduction ..." guide is
fine for getting a feeling what's going on but would not suffice for
making it final.
Try downloading frd-zma.zip and in the SPL folder there
is a program to make a txt file out of a picture.
https://app.box.com/s/qa3g6ukzxp6410dwmcrv
Courtesy of wolf_teeth, a diyAudio member.
is a program to make a txt file out of a picture.
https://app.box.com/s/qa3g6ukzxp6410dwmcrv
Courtesy of wolf_teeth, a diyAudio member.
I agree with Lojzek that you really should simulate the component values and not try to calculate them on paper. Otherwise you'll probably just waste your money as textbook crossovers almost never work.
An easier option is to buy a cheap measurement microphone ( which is nice to have for verification of the design ) and then go the active DSP route instead. DSP is cheap nowadays and there are lots of cheap multichannel amps out there.
An easier option is to buy a cheap measurement microphone ( which is nice to have for verification of the design ) and then go the active DSP route instead. DSP is cheap nowadays and there are lots of cheap multichannel amps out there.
Hi,
As 3 way those 3 drivers are an absolute non-starter.
You should know that, and if you don't don't try
designing a 3 way until you do understand why.
Add a sub, or two subs, one plate amplifier to your
2 ways, and check that they are properly designed.
rgds, sreten.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
FRD Consortium tools guide
As 3 way those 3 drivers are an absolute non-starter.
You should know that, and if you don't don't try
designing a 3 way until you do understand why.
Add a sub, or two subs, one plate amplifier to your
2 ways, and check that they are properly designed.
rgds, sreten.
http://audio.claub.net/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf
FRD Consortium tools guide
Last edited:
Add a sub, or two subs, one plate amplifier to your
2 ways
Why complicate things?
The plan was to make something that looked similar to what i already have using similar components. They are set up now with some subs that run off a plate amp. So it may be better to just start from scratch for my first 3 way setup. Thanks for the replies
If you really want a 3-way setup then I'd recommend you first research, a lot before making plans. A faster option is to build from pre-designed speaker on the web.
This for example that uses Dayton drivers.
Troels has a lot of designs too.
Another good speaker is the Linkwitz LXMini which is a different kind of speaker. There is of course the Nao Note 2 RS and the Linkwitz LX521 but those are more expensive builds.
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