I believe I want my first real DIY speaker project to be a center channel. This is the speaker I listen to most often, and it will offer the most learning experiences for me.
I have decided on a WMTW design, I have a fairly small amount of space to use, and a small budget as well. It will need to be shielded as well.
T TB 28-8485A Tweeter, 2nd or 3rd order at 4KHz
M TB W3-879S 3" 2nd or 3rd order bandpassed from 350Hz to 4Kz (is a bandpass advisable?)
2xW TB W5-876SA 5" 2nd order Low-Pass at 350Hz.
This should run abuot 75 for the drivers, and I would like to stay under 15 or so for the crossover. From what I have been learning, the impedence and freq response curves should work nicely at these crossover ferquencies, though I will use WINISD to verify this.
Thumbs up, or am I way off bass (pun intended) here?
BTW I intend on replacing the mains to match this setup later on down the road, they are currently low rate Pioneers...
I have decided on a WMTW design, I have a fairly small amount of space to use, and a small budget as well. It will need to be shielded as well.
T TB 28-8485A Tweeter, 2nd or 3rd order at 4KHz
M TB W3-879S 3" 2nd or 3rd order bandpassed from 350Hz to 4Kz (is a bandpass advisable?)
2xW TB W5-876SA 5" 2nd order Low-Pass at 350Hz.
This should run abuot 75 for the drivers, and I would like to stay under 15 or so for the crossover. From what I have been learning, the impedence and freq response curves should work nicely at these crossover ferquencies, though I will use WINISD to verify this.
Thumbs up, or am I way off bass (pun intended) here?
BTW I intend on replacing the mains to match this setup later on down the road, they are currently low rate Pioneers...
Yes you are right. I was just looking through the PE pre made Xovers and they run 40 bucks. Still, that would total 115 for a very nice center channel.
Previously I had been looking at a 300 dollar Inifinity CC and I dont think it would sound nearly as nice.
Plus I could later match these with a TW or TMW mains and TM surrounds...
Previously I had been looking at a 300 dollar Inifinity CC and I dont think it would sound nearly as nice.
Plus I could later match these with a TW or TMW mains and TM surrounds...
I am also very new to speaker building...and I would also like to build a CC. I have recently learned that my original thought of copying the popular MTM is not the way to go. I also was thinking of the WMTW configuration...when I thought of using a couple coaxial speakers instead....like what is seen in car audio.
I know that a speaker company (I think B&W) has done a simillar thing....
Any thoughts on this????
I know that a speaker company (I think B&W) has done a simillar thing....
Any thoughts on this????
If this is you first DIY project .. be carefull .. be very carefull ...
www.spearkplans.com may help .
Be carefull to join all the board's corectly , to cut them good ... i recomand that someone else to cut them ...
Good luck !! Bye
www.spearkplans.com may help .
Be carefull to join all the board's corectly , to cut them good ... i recomand that someone else to cut them ...
Good luck !! Bye
This will be my first Xover design, but cutting isnt an issue. I have built boxes before and they came out very nice.
I think for the 3 way X over I will do like so:
[edit I tried to ASCII art it, but forget it]
First order Mid/Woof Xover
C1 39.8uF //High pass 500Hz
L1 1.82uH //Low pass 350Hz
Second Order Mid/Tweet Xover
C2 3.517UF //2nd order HP 4KHz
L2 .45uH
C3 4.193uF //2nd order LP 3.5KHz
L3 .51uH
Parts should run about 30 bucks
Does this sound right?
Looking at the impedence graphs, it *should* average out to 8ohms across the board. What is a good software program to use ro add the freq response and inpedence response graphs?
By the way, I could save alot of money by replacing C1 with a cheap electrolytic cap. Would I notice the difference??
I think for the 3 way X over I will do like so:
[edit I tried to ASCII art it, but forget it]
First order Mid/Woof Xover
C1 39.8uF //High pass 500Hz
L1 1.82uH //Low pass 350Hz
Second Order Mid/Tweet Xover
C2 3.517UF //2nd order HP 4KHz
L2 .45uH
C3 4.193uF //2nd order LP 3.5KHz
L3 .51uH
Parts should run about 30 bucks
Does this sound right?
Looking at the impedence graphs, it *should* average out to 8ohms across the board. What is a good software program to use ro add the freq response and inpedence response graphs?
By the way, I could save alot of money by replacing C1 with a cheap electrolytic cap. Would I notice the difference??
Zymrgy said:
If you like WTMW, the Audax CC looks good:
http://design3d.host.sk/Hi-Fi/Audax/ht_center.htm
If you like coax, Tony Gee's USB looks good:
http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/USB.html
Timn8ter said:
... meaning the sensitivity of the tweet as opposed to the midrange?
Well, I am still learning, so my guess (and I am asking for input here) that I would need a resister to pad the tweeter or an L-pad (and I have never used an L-pad). Whats the best way to determine resistance needed or what sort of L-pad I would need?
Also, I am not sure how to handle the Woofers in this case. They are going to be run parallel at 4ohms, and I know larger speakers are less efficient, so I would assume this would make up for that (having two in parallel). Oh, but then I would underload my amp.
Well, thats why I am here I guess. I plan on getting the LoudSpeaker CookBook before I begin of course.
Or, I could just buy the prebuild Dayton Crossover. Would that be the better way? I really would prefer to do it myself...
leadbelly said:
I agree. Did you look at the design? The driver is about $100, but it has a very simple x-over. Probably has a lot less parts and a lot less cost than the same quality x-over in your 3-way design. You should be able to wind the inductors yourself if you don't want to buy thick gauge or expensive inductors. I think winding your own inductors is a lot easier than designing an x-over.
These premade PE x-overs for $40 are designed for your drivers and they're suppose to sound good?Jimmy154 said:
I agree. Did you look at the design? The driver is about $100, but it has a very simple x-over. Probably has a lot less parts and a lot less cost than the same quality x-over in your 3-way design. You should be able to wind the inductors yourself if you don't want to buy thick gauge or expensive inductors. I think winding your own inductors is a lot easier than designing an x-over.
I dont really like the Coaxial CC myself. I would like to do the 3 way. Just personal preference I guess.
I agree with you on the PE Crossover. Thats another reason I want to build my own.
Jimmy154 said:
That's funny I don't like it either, but if I had to build a coaxial (not sure what "CC" means) that would be it. I thought you were considering one.
I hope you have more luck with the x-over than I did on my first and only speakers
Oh sorry, hehe it was another person that was showing interest in the coax. I meant Center Channel by CC.
Thanks for your input too. I hope it sounds decent
would there be any advantage to doing a dual coax setup...ie 2 coax speakers in the same box? I want the cabnet to be approx the same width as my TV, for no more reason than asthetics. My thinking is that 2 drivers should allow me to have a bit more bottom end....
Also, I was hoping to keep the height of the box to a mininum...anyone know of any good 5 1/4" coax?
great link to Tony Gee's USB...thanks!
Also, I was hoping to keep the height of the box to a mininum...anyone know of any good 5 1/4" coax?
great link to Tony Gee's USB...thanks!
Zymrgy said:
Bad idea. A good analogy would be putting twice as much light mayonnaise on a sandwich than you would regular mayonnaise. The advantage of the coax is that it's a more coherent source, closer to a point source; you destroy that by using 2. If you need it wider, do that with cosmetic woodwork only.
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