Dave- I'm intrigued by your ideas,but I don't have a clear understanding of what your cabinet would look like.Any chance of a sketch like Chris's,or even a line drawing? I have a couple specific questions,too.How would I determine the ideal size box? What is Sd? I'll look up aperiodic,maybe that will help.Any references or web pages you could point me to? Thanks for your interest-that goes for everybody.
J
J
jbrom said:
Use Chris's sketch (6 or 8" pipe could be used if you rotate the driver). Make it as tall as you can afford to carry around. Drill the holes (or make slots) at the bottom of the baffle.
Some pics & drawing of Dynaco A10 Aperiodic Vent.
There is an optimum size -- no one has come up with an analytical method for determining it yet --this procedure is aimed at those situations where you know you can't build a box big enuff -- in my experience, more often than not, you get something listenable.
The cone area of the speaker -- usually you consider half of the surround to be include, but i usually don't bother.
You probably won't find much.
Here is a pdf of Ted Jordon's seminal paper on aperiodic enclosures.
I am also trying to get a pdf of Bill Perkin's PR-2 speaker bumf -- he has done a very good job with the aperiodic loading on these.
dave
Ah, I do like Dave's suggestion to have the two units attach to each other.
Heck, now I may have to build a pair of cabinets like this, albiet not using 6x9 auto speakers.
Here is an idea on that, that I believe would be very durable, and more importantly; quick and easy to assemble/disassemble.
-The raised 1x2" pieces from the baffle are needed to add additional space for the side mounted latches, and to allow clearance for the speaker grills when the units are latched. These pieces can be made of any hardwood or MDF. I recommend a hardwood for durability.
-The female front uses a washer superglued to an inset hole(sand metal on the side to be glued), inset flush to the wood with a hole slightly in excess of 1/8" drilled into the wood, the washer is needed to protect the baffle from wear that would othewise be in excess around this area.
-The male end is made of a simple 1/8" brass or aluminum stock rod, superglued into a hole drilled into the other baffle.
-The latches, baffle and 1/8" stock are very low cost and available from just about any hardware store.
-It is recommended to cut the metal guide tabs off of the male latches, it seems they will cuase difficulty in assembly, the guide pins on the baffle server the purpose of aligning the units. Also, the guide pin on the baffle should be filed so that it has a bevel, for easier alignment. 4 guide pins may be needed, but it would seem that 2 may be satisfactory. I would do a quick test with scrap wood using 2 and 4 to see which is easier.
-Guide pins are used, instead of just relying on the latches' guides because the small size latch called for to fit on this unit will have inadequate strength to do anything more than provide tension to hold the units face to face. Also, the guide pins should be more effective for quickly aligning the enclosures. Failure to use the alignment pins as described here will likely result in prematiure latch failure and difficulty in assembling units.
-For added convenience, it is recommended that you use 1/8" phono jacks or XLR connectors for speaker cable connections at the speakers and the amplifier.
- These latches may rattle on some music. Of course, this is just one type of latch, if you come across a more suitable latch please use it. First thing that comes to my mind is a miniature version of the rubber latch like is used to hold down the engine hoods on some large trucks.
-This idea may work, may suck or maybe somewhere inbetween. Hey, it's just an idea! LOL
http://64.33.91.28/images/6x9b.gif
-Chris
Heck, now I may have to build a pair of cabinets like this, albiet not using 6x9 auto speakers.
Here is an idea on that, that I believe would be very durable, and more importantly; quick and easy to assemble/disassemble.
-The raised 1x2" pieces from the baffle are needed to add additional space for the side mounted latches, and to allow clearance for the speaker grills when the units are latched. These pieces can be made of any hardwood or MDF. I recommend a hardwood for durability.
-The female front uses a washer superglued to an inset hole(sand metal on the side to be glued), inset flush to the wood with a hole slightly in excess of 1/8" drilled into the wood, the washer is needed to protect the baffle from wear that would othewise be in excess around this area.
-The male end is made of a simple 1/8" brass or aluminum stock rod, superglued into a hole drilled into the other baffle.
-The latches, baffle and 1/8" stock are very low cost and available from just about any hardware store.
-It is recommended to cut the metal guide tabs off of the male latches, it seems they will cuase difficulty in assembly, the guide pins on the baffle server the purpose of aligning the units. Also, the guide pin on the baffle should be filed so that it has a bevel, for easier alignment. 4 guide pins may be needed, but it would seem that 2 may be satisfactory. I would do a quick test with scrap wood using 2 and 4 to see which is easier.
-Guide pins are used, instead of just relying on the latches' guides because the small size latch called for to fit on this unit will have inadequate strength to do anything more than provide tension to hold the units face to face. Also, the guide pins should be more effective for quickly aligning the enclosures. Failure to use the alignment pins as described here will likely result in prematiure latch failure and difficulty in assembling units.
-For added convenience, it is recommended that you use 1/8" phono jacks or XLR connectors for speaker cable connections at the speakers and the amplifier.
- These latches may rattle on some music. Of course, this is just one type of latch, if you come across a more suitable latch please use it. First thing that comes to my mind is a miniature version of the rubber latch like is used to hold down the engine hoods on some large trucks.
-This idea may work, may suck or maybe somewhere inbetween. Hey, it's just an idea! LOL
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://64.33.91.28/images/6x9b.gif
-Chris
CHRIS8 said:
I have some nice 6x9 alnicos up for grabs :^) Big brothers of these 5x7s (5x7 is my favorite size for ovals). [thanx for the opportunity to fit a little ad into the thread]
I'd happily donate some salvaged (vintage too) latches (as long as i get an article that i can post on my website -- link under the button below).
i'd mod the cabinet a bit, moving the driver up near the top and adding aperiodic vent at the bottom (it is unlikely you will find a 6x9 that will like a cab this small)
dave
I just wrote the longest post of my life,and then they tell me I'm not logged in and I lost it.C'est la vie.Guys,I built these things yesterday and they work great.24" long,driver rotated and (3) 7/8" holes at the other end of the baffle.6x9 Pioneer 3-ways.1/2" MDF,10" sonotube halves.Glued,air-stapled,caulked.Deep bass,good mids and highs too.Put my ear up to the vents,and the quote is "Holy S---,all the bass is coming out them little holes!!" It's magic. No damping material yet.What do you think 2 more holes would do? I laid out 5 but only drilled 3.What will batting and foam or fiberglass do?Are these aperiodic or simply vented now? I have a neighbor,now living a ways away,who's a speaker madman-800 lb.cabinets-I want to be able to tell him what I've got.Chris and Dave,thanks a lot.I appreciate the help.That goes for everybody.
John
John
jbrom said:
Not enuff information to guess. That it works is luck. To find out you's have to drill them and try it out... we are now into the "tubegarden" approach to speaker building... Try stuff, see how it works...
even left as a BR you should put some damping on the curved wall -- a piece of 2" insulation would do -- should improve the mids, due to some damping of internal reflections back thru the cone. Try stuff, see how it works...
It is simply a vented box. Try damping the vents (just stuff some fiberglass in them), see if bass improves... not necessarily more, but better/smoother/less boomy.
dave
Planet 10...
"I'd happily donate some salvaged (vintage too) latches (as long as i get an article that i can post on my website"
I would gladly accept your offer for the vintage latches, and document(along with pics)the construction for an article on your site(even though these won't be TLs, shame shame on you! LOL).
What are the latch dimensions?
However, I am in the process of settling down(just moved Saturday) and am also rennovating the basement into another usable floor(with a new dedicated listening room! Yeah!) and it will be about 6-8 weeks before I have time to start building these units, and optimize a filter for them.
If you still wish to donate these latches, contact me via e-mail: chris8@mail.com
BTW, I was considering making this as a 2 way design, not a full range driver design...just so you know.
-Chris
"I'd happily donate some salvaged (vintage too) latches (as long as i get an article that i can post on my website"
I would gladly accept your offer for the vintage latches, and document(along with pics)the construction for an article on your site(even though these won't be TLs, shame shame on you! LOL).
What are the latch dimensions?
However, I am in the process of settling down(just moved Saturday) and am also rennovating the basement into another usable floor(with a new dedicated listening room! Yeah!) and it will be about 6-8 weeks before I have time to start building these units, and optimize a filter for them.
If you still wish to donate these latches, contact me via e-mail: chris8@mail.com
BTW, I was considering making this as a 2 way design, not a full range driver design...just so you know.
-Chris
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