Hi,
I'm thinking of building some larger speakers, it'll take me many many months, but if I start soon enough I can bring them to college with me.
This time I want to use plans. I'm just about finished with my first diy project using 5.5" drivers and audax tweetes, 2K crossover for nearfield use. I want something that can punch out more spl and lower bass, but I don't need to port them, I've got a subwoofer.
Ok, I won't go into all my different ideas and what I like and don't like. So here's my question. Can I remove or lower the amount of baffle step correction I find on most diy plans? I will have the speakers up by the wall, maybe even flush with some shelves or something, cause it'll be in a dorm room. If I just use winspeakers and play with the main inductor can I trust those results, or is that just a bad idea. Since I won't have proper measurements of the actual drivers on the baffle can I just model the crossover that the plans say to build, and try to get a few db less attentuation in the electrical transfer fuction?
Thanks,
and if anyone has any good design using 7" woofers with good mids and highs, let me know. I'm so far looking at the eros and a couple others using the vifa pl18 driver. If I just take a little out of each paycheck I should be able to afford $500 in parts in the end.
I'm thinking of building some larger speakers, it'll take me many many months, but if I start soon enough I can bring them to college with me.
This time I want to use plans. I'm just about finished with my first diy project using 5.5" drivers and audax tweetes, 2K crossover for nearfield use. I want something that can punch out more spl and lower bass, but I don't need to port them, I've got a subwoofer.
Ok, I won't go into all my different ideas and what I like and don't like. So here's my question. Can I remove or lower the amount of baffle step correction I find on most diy plans? I will have the speakers up by the wall, maybe even flush with some shelves or something, cause it'll be in a dorm room. If I just use winspeakers and play with the main inductor can I trust those results, or is that just a bad idea. Since I won't have proper measurements of the actual drivers on the baffle can I just model the crossover that the plans say to build, and try to get a few db less attentuation in the electrical transfer fuction?
Thanks,
and if anyone has any good design using 7" woofers with good mids and highs, let me know. I'm so far looking at the eros and a couple others using the vifa pl18 driver. If I just take a little out of each paycheck I should be able to afford $500 in parts in the end.
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