Hello,
I wanted to make a pair of horns using something form DIY Sound group. Does anyone have any ideas on a design? I personally have no experience in designing speakers but have built a couple before. My room isn't too big so I can't use some of the larger horns, but if anyone has any ideas on what to build, your support will be much appreciated.
Link: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/horns/autotech-horns.html
Thanks in advance
I wanted to make a pair of horns using something form DIY Sound group. Does anyone have any ideas on a design? I personally have no experience in designing speakers but have built a couple before. My room isn't too big so I can't use some of the larger horns, but if anyone has any ideas on what to build, your support will be much appreciated.
Link: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/horns/autotech-horns.html
Thanks in advance
Last edited:
Moved to Multi-Way
They do have some nice kits for the waveguides but I am looking more for the JMLC horns or the Tractrix.
choose horn you like
buy proper comp. drivers, suitable LF speakers and minidsp with mic (or other)
make boxes if it is necessary
cross\equlise
listen\enjoy
I have no idea what that means sorry. A little less jargon please or abbreviations.
sorry.
choose horn you like
buy proper compression drivers, suitable low frequency speakers and digital crossover (minidsp for examle) with measurement microphone
make boxes if it is necessary
make crossover with using digital crossover and microphone measurements, equalise speaker responce if it is necessary
listen\enjoy
choose horn you like
buy proper compression drivers, suitable low frequency speakers and digital crossover (minidsp for examle) with measurement microphone
make boxes if it is necessary
make crossover with using digital crossover and microphone measurements, equalise speaker responce if it is necessary
listen\enjoy
I've not found any 'cookbook' designs for the Autotech horns, so to repeat what Flaesch said you are left making your choices and designing your own. You'll need basic measurement tools, and things can be easier if you can use a DSP based active crossover. At least that way once you have the hardware crossover changes are quick and free (compared to buying passive xover parts).
I'm pretty much a noob, too, at least when it comes to designing my own instead of following a recipe. I'm attracted to the Iwata 600's, probably based more on emotion and visual appeal than any objective facts, but I'm starting smaller and cheaper with a Faital Pro tractrix horn and CD (STH100/HF100), an 8" Eminence Beta 8a, MiniDSP 2x4 and two Chinese class D amp boards. The total cost (with a sheet of lumber) is a little more than the cost of the Iwatas alone, forget drivers. If I can make that work reasonably well (and I think I'm getting close), I'll feel more justified in spending hundreds more chasing fancier horns & drivers.
BTW, it would help if you specified how big your room is, your targets for bass extension and SPL, your tolerance for a big enclosure or a narrow sweet spot and a rough budget for your project. There are lots of bright and helpful people here but they don't generally read minds too well.
Bill
good point, lousymusician! 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CeMVNykHMZE/UlnBlXbGI3I/AAAAAAAAFIs/8swThRwf3jQ/s1600/DSC_8484_1.jpg - autotech horns system made by diyAudio - View Profile: cka3o4nuk using above (#6,#8) mentioned algorithm
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CeMVNykHMZE/UlnBlXbGI3I/AAAAAAAAFIs/8swThRwf3jQ/s1600/DSC_8484_1.jpg - autotech horns system made by diyAudio - View Profile: cka3o4nuk using above (#6,#8) mentioned algorithm
I am a total noob when it comes to designing any sort of speaker as well. I can build anything if someone gives me a set of plans but I have no idea where to start if someone gave me a pair of drivers and some wood.
Ok so what it looks like is I will not need a passive crossover because the miniDSP will be the active one. I have never used this before but I guess there is no time like the present to learn. I assume you just hook up your amp to it and then to the speakers and the software acts as a crossover. It also seems like I will have to measure the frequency from each speaker for the software to work properly.
Ok so I am hoping the budget for this project will be the $1000-2000 range. Also my room isn't too big, it is about 12'x15'. I honestly have no idea what my targets are for extenstion but would preferably like a very large sweet spot as I move around the room quite a bit.
Ok so what it looks like is I will not need a passive crossover because the miniDSP will be the active one. I have never used this before but I guess there is no time like the present to learn. I assume you just hook up your amp to it and then to the speakers and the software acts as a crossover. It also seems like I will have to measure the frequency from each speaker for the software to work properly.
Ok so I am hoping the budget for this project will be the $1000-2000 range. Also my room isn't too big, it is about 12'x15'. I honestly have no idea what my targets are for extenstion but would preferably like a very large sweet spot as I move around the room quite a bit.
Ok. Thank you. Do you know if there is a difference between the plastic and fiberglass ones?
Bill, I've built a few systems, including Stereolabs stone horns, yuichi, faital pro elliptical, plus numerous altec rigs. I now have azura horns.*
Well done for having a go.*
I like the Autotech gear.*
For a simple two way, consider:
Iwata 600 horn with 2inch throat.*
If you optEd for the 300hz model, you'll get a much richer range, eg from about 500hz up.
Compression driver: pick reputable brand like Radian, B&C. I like the faital pro hf200 for true 500hz to 20,000hz range. (no tweeter needed unless you're really picky. )
For bass: eminence kappalite or deltalite 12 inch in a simple ported cab of approx 150 liters.*
For xover, suggest minidsp for US$105...a bargain....and quite easy to set up. Very useful for playing around with xover points to suit your drivers and room. With active xover though, you need two amps.*
I believe with this sort of system, you'll get a real buzz, with very dynamic range. Down the track, make the horn passive xover using quality parts, and use minidsp for bass duties only.*
Kind regards
Andrew
Well done for having a go.*
I like the Autotech gear.*
For a simple two way, consider:
Iwata 600 horn with 2inch throat.*
If you optEd for the 300hz model, you'll get a much richer range, eg from about 500hz up.
Compression driver: pick reputable brand like Radian, B&C. I like the faital pro hf200 for true 500hz to 20,000hz range. (no tweeter needed unless you're really picky. )
For bass: eminence kappalite or deltalite 12 inch in a simple ported cab of approx 150 liters.*
For xover, suggest minidsp for US$105...a bargain....and quite easy to set up. Very useful for playing around with xover points to suit your drivers and room. With active xover though, you need two amps.*
I believe with this sort of system, you'll get a real buzz, with very dynamic range. Down the track, make the horn passive xover using quality parts, and use minidsp for bass duties only.*
Kind regards
Andrew
Andrew,
I figure I might have a tough time integrating a 2" outlet CD on a big horn in an 11' x 14' den. Do I need 2" CD's for near-field listening? I know I don't need the extra SPL. Plus there's a considerable cost differential to the big horns, big CD and requisite 15" bass driver. If you read between the lines, you might guess I'm trying to stick to a reasonable budget and stay married. I may get the big toys some day, but small steps for now, and 1" CDs. Hey, they work for Dr. Earl...
As noted previously I'm using a MiniDSP 2x4, but I plan to go to the 4x10hd to add a bass channel. I have 4-10" NAD woofers that will work nicely in smallish sealed boxes with a modest Linkwitz transform and give me all the bass the room can take. Really, two should be enough, all four get me into multi-sub territory. Then the midranges can go sealed, or to some version of of an aperiodic / cardioid / damped back wave enclosure. The mids should be happier when relieved of bass duties.
As it is, the horn and midbass are integrating pretty well. I can't pick out the crossover by ear, and at least with a casual move of the measurement mic side to side the horizontal polar looks pretty smooth.
Bill
I figure I might have a tough time integrating a 2" outlet CD on a big horn in an 11' x 14' den. Do I need 2" CD's for near-field listening? I know I don't need the extra SPL. Plus there's a considerable cost differential to the big horns, big CD and requisite 15" bass driver. If you read between the lines, you might guess I'm trying to stick to a reasonable budget and stay married. I may get the big toys some day, but small steps for now, and 1" CDs. Hey, they work for Dr. Earl...
As noted previously I'm using a MiniDSP 2x4, but I plan to go to the 4x10hd to add a bass channel. I have 4-10" NAD woofers that will work nicely in smallish sealed boxes with a modest Linkwitz transform and give me all the bass the room can take. Really, two should be enough, all four get me into multi-sub territory. Then the midranges can go sealed, or to some version of of an aperiodic / cardioid / damped back wave enclosure. The mids should be happier when relieved of bass duties.
As it is, the horn and midbass are integrating pretty well. I can't pick out the crossover by ear, and at least with a casual move of the measurement mic side to side the horizontal polar looks pretty smooth.
Bill
OK, I get it, Bill.
If you have the NAD woofers spare, then you could quite easily build one box, say 35 inches tall, which would house the woofers in the bottom 2/3 section, then fit an Eminence Deltalite or Kappalite 10 or 12-inch into the top section of the cab, creating a divider between the two section. The mid bass is best sealed.
The cab would be very easy to build.
As you only have 2x4 MiniDSP, you'll need to get one or two plate amps for the bass drivers.
If you had a dedicated 10 or 12 inch mid bass, then you can easily use the 600Hz Iwata horn and a one-inch CD...crossing over around 1,200Hz.
So, xover points will be around 30-150Hz bass, 150-1200 mid bass, then 1200 plus for the horn.
Sweet.
See attached pic of my mid bass and separate bass module, with EV 18 inch. I'm using 12-inch Kappalite for the mids, crossed around 500Hz to the Azura horn and 2-inch JBL 2445 CD's.
If you have the NAD woofers spare, then you could quite easily build one box, say 35 inches tall, which would house the woofers in the bottom 2/3 section, then fit an Eminence Deltalite or Kappalite 10 or 12-inch into the top section of the cab, creating a divider between the two section. The mid bass is best sealed.
The cab would be very easy to build.
As you only have 2x4 MiniDSP, you'll need to get one or two plate amps for the bass drivers.
If you had a dedicated 10 or 12 inch mid bass, then you can easily use the 600Hz Iwata horn and a one-inch CD...crossing over around 1,200Hz.
So, xover points will be around 30-150Hz bass, 150-1200 mid bass, then 1200 plus for the horn.
Sweet.
See attached pic of my mid bass and separate bass module, with EV 18 inch. I'm using 12-inch Kappalite for the mids, crossed around 500Hz to the Azura horn and 2-inch JBL 2445 CD's.
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