What happens when a skilled cabinet-maker (not me) decides to join on the DIY Circus?
I just offered some advices from my 30 years diy-illness and soldered the crossover.
The outer skin is Sapele mahogany included 17 layers of clear paint.
The Seas members are: T29MF001 Magnum tweeter (titanium dome), this appeared to be among the finest we ever heard.
Woofers are W22EX001
Upper woofer sealed 1 ft3. Stuffing is sheep's wool. Inner walls lined with bitumen and felt.
Lower woofer BR 1.8 ft3. No stuffing, just bitumen and felt lining plus bracing.
BR tube dia 3" Length 5".
The tuning results in a weighty BBC-curve, all in order for listening environment at moderate sound levels (and the owner digs low frequency entertainment)
Tweeter level was attenuated additionally 2db according to owners taste.
This beasts really awakes with big amps, here an integrated McIntosh (8 x 6550).
The sound brings smiles to faces and severe foot stomping. Hence, I suppose everything is OK.
I just offered some advices from my 30 years diy-illness and soldered the crossover.
The outer skin is Sapele mahogany included 17 layers of clear paint.
The Seas members are: T29MF001 Magnum tweeter (titanium dome), this appeared to be among the finest we ever heard.
Woofers are W22EX001
Upper woofer sealed 1 ft3. Stuffing is sheep's wool. Inner walls lined with bitumen and felt.
Lower woofer BR 1.8 ft3. No stuffing, just bitumen and felt lining plus bracing.
BR tube dia 3" Length 5".
The tuning results in a weighty BBC-curve, all in order for listening environment at moderate sound levels (and the owner digs low frequency entertainment)
Tweeter level was attenuated additionally 2db according to owners taste.
This beasts really awakes with big amps, here an integrated McIntosh (8 x 6550).
The sound brings smiles to faces and severe foot stomping. Hence, I suppose everything is OK.
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Correct! when fired up, there were muffled sound due to the wrong woofer phase. Both woofers are now in phase ( both to + +).
The additional tweeter attenuator resistor is bypassed by a 1 uF film capacitor bringing a tint of some extra air in the soundscape.
The additional tweeter attenuator resistor is bypassed by a 1 uF film capacitor bringing a tint of some extra air in the soundscape.
I do think that SEAS is Norway's real national treasure. I once stayed at Moss, and it is a lovely place with lovely people too. Your language is quite difficult though. Thank goodness you all seem to speak English. 😱
I really like the 22cm. woofer (what we call 8") and tweeter idea, short of a three-way. But I won't go on too much.
It has good deep bass and a decent midrange. 🙂
I would like to see SEAS building a decent paper or polypropylene cone tweeter with a phase plug, because that would be something good too.
I could see the snow outside your garage when you built this.
Ha det, Wilbur! 😀
I really like the 22cm. woofer (what we call 8") and tweeter idea, short of a three-way. But I won't go on too much.
It has good deep bass and a decent midrange. 🙂
I would like to see SEAS building a decent paper or polypropylene cone tweeter with a phase plug, because that would be something good too.
I could see the snow outside your garage when you built this.
Ha det, Wilbur! 😀
Does this work with every filter? (like small bypass caps over larger caps)
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Yes, the capacitor " air condtion" will work with all attenuator resistors. Try different capacitor values from 0,68 and up. (Satisfaction not guaranteed).
System7: Thanks your kind words, Norwegian is not that difficult, even the children here speak it ;-)
System7: Thanks your kind words, Norwegian is not that difficult, even the children here speak it ;-)
Because nobody makes a really good cone tweeter anymore. The last great one was probably the Peerless MT 25.
And I like them. 🙂
They don't make them for good reasons. If they have to be cheap they are poor; if they have to be good they are expensive like the Davis TW26 and I strongly doubt the latter is any better than the T35.
Impressive build, do you know how the cabinet maker did the curved veneering?
Any idea of total cost?
Any idea of total cost?
The opposing surfaces were primed with adhesive glue.
The veneer sheet(s) were strecthed between two planks (sheets glued to planks) and then lowered gently down on the speaker to set.
Furthermore, the leftover veneer (including the planks) were cut off.
Total cost?
The speakers is the cabinet makers property and he did not calculate the manhour cost.
If you add raw drivers cost to the very proper crossovers (Solen Pefect Winding, Claricap Esa,Vishay MKP1837 bypass etc.etc) you may figure the total spending.
We had some measurements done, but these were not stored.
Anyway, the curve was very close to the Leap predictions.
The veneer sheet(s) were strecthed between two planks (sheets glued to planks) and then lowered gently down on the speaker to set.
Furthermore, the leftover veneer (including the planks) were cut off.
Total cost?
The speakers is the cabinet makers property and he did not calculate the manhour cost.
If you add raw drivers cost to the very proper crossovers (Solen Pefect Winding, Claricap Esa,Vishay MKP1837 bypass etc.etc) you may figure the total spending.
We had some measurements done, but these were not stored.
Anyway, the curve was very close to the Leap predictions.
Indeed. 🙂 And finally somebody using the Magnum tweeter successfully. I've had my eye on it for a while, but it's a bit of a pain to work with.
Tjena Jonasz,
Crossover points are approx. 140 and 1450 hz (2,5 way)
I do not recommend this speakers for small rooms and small amps.
(Example: Nad C390DD missed the guts, sounding "ungroovy" in this combination).
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