Greetings!
Im going to upgrade my system step by step.
I currently have a PC based system with Xonar Essence ST + H6, HarmanKardon AVR8500, Swans D3.2BF and a sub made of Seas L26ROY and its passive radiator.
My plans for the future are the following:
And this is where my question gets relevant to this topic. I tought it would be great if the front speakers are made of an active subwoofer and a smaller speaker with simple passive crossover. This combo will be actively separated somewhere @80hz then i can use the same small speakers design for the other channels to recive the same sound from all directions. The subs will have a dsp or an active eq to compensate the room, the goal is go deep as possible even at high volume.
Im going to use 2drivers on each side. The whole upgrade will cost a lot of money and therefore i will divide it in smaller but noticeable improvements:
I pretty much fell in love with the L26ROY i currently own, but is there any other drivers with same capabilities i can use in this price range, or maybe cheaper?
Can u recommend any sat. speaker design which has a simple (1st order, or any low part consumption) crossover and sounds good even low and high volumes?
Any topics/books i should read in connection with dsp design/programming; active crossovers; choosing right kind of wood for the cabinets; amp modules for subwoofers or anything related to my project?
In advance thank you for everyone who contribute in this and have a nice day!
Im going to upgrade my system step by step.
I currently have a PC based system with Xonar Essence ST + H6, HarmanKardon AVR8500, Swans D3.2BF and a sub made of Seas L26ROY and its passive radiator.
My plans for the future are the following:
- i will remain with PC based playback but i will move out my stuff to a network storage
- will buy a hdmi processor using the current avr as a power amp.
- make a new 5.2 or 7.2 closed speaker system depending on the room size after i move out.
And this is where my question gets relevant to this topic. I tought it would be great if the front speakers are made of an active subwoofer and a smaller speaker with simple passive crossover. This combo will be actively separated somewhere @80hz then i can use the same small speakers design for the other channels to recive the same sound from all directions. The subs will have a dsp or an active eq to compensate the room, the goal is go deep as possible even at high volume.
Im going to use 2drivers on each side. The whole upgrade will cost a lot of money and therefore i will divide it in smaller but noticeable improvements:
- First i tought i make the 3 way front sub/sat system. The subs cabinets will be designed to two drivers, but first i install only one driver and a passive radiator in each of them. I also make the 2 satelite speakers. I make the two dsp or eq. for the subs, two active crossovers for the sub sat separation, an automatic switch for music 2.0 and movie 2.1 modes (the first will use my crossovers, and the second will redirect the .1 output of the AVR to the 2 subs) i will use my AVR to drive all the speakers (i think it has enough power to do so).
- The second step when i replace the passive radiators and make the dedicated amp for the subwoofers.
- Third i make the remaining the 3 satelite speakers, still using the AVR8500 and my home made switch/eq for the sound decoding/processing.
- The final step when i add the HDMI processor to the system, the AVR will serve as a power amp. then.
I pretty much fell in love with the L26ROY i currently own, but is there any other drivers with same capabilities i can use in this price range, or maybe cheaper?
Can u recommend any sat. speaker design which has a simple (1st order, or any low part consumption) crossover and sounds good even low and high volumes?
Any topics/books i should read in connection with dsp design/programming; active crossovers; choosing right kind of wood for the cabinets; amp modules for subwoofers or anything related to my project?
In advance thank you for everyone who contribute in this and have a nice day!
The main thing here is choosing the right drivers for building the two front speakers. Should i stay with the beloved seas l26roy for the sub section? What kind of two way speaker should i put on its top? Maybe a d'appolito design?
I am better at electronics but i am a beginner at speaker design.
I am better at electronics but i am a beginner at speaker design.
It's nothing wrong staying with your favorite subwoofer. That Seas unit looks like a good stuff.
If the sub is crossed properly (low enough), the choices of main speakers are almost infinite. That's why I said the coverage of the topic is too large to comment.
There're boxed, OB, horn, planar... etc. as you can see their individual forum here.
Picking a fundamental architecture of a speaker is almost an issue of philosophy. You have to do that first by yourself, then people can help you out in the following 'technical' stuff.
If the sub is crossed properly (low enough), the choices of main speakers are almost infinite. That's why I said the coverage of the topic is too large to comment.
There're boxed, OB, horn, planar... etc. as you can see their individual forum here.
Picking a fundamental architecture of a speaker is almost an issue of philosophy. You have to do that first by yourself, then people can help you out in the following 'technical' stuff.
I think i go with closed boxes, both the subwoofers and the satelites. They are easier to construct for a beginner like me. I will extend the lowest frequencies with linkwitz tr/eq/dsp sacrificing some of the achievable volume but with 2 woofers on each side it can be 'loud' enough.
Next im going to read the topics related to the designing softwares. Should i trust the parameters given by the manufacturer or its better to measure the woofers before designing the cabinets? My 3 years old woofer will sound the same like a brand new one?
Next im going to read the topics related to the designing softwares. Should i trust the parameters given by the manufacturer or its better to measure the woofers before designing the cabinets? My 3 years old woofer will sound the same like a brand new one?
A used driver is not going to be exactly the same as a brand new one. The new suspension would loosen up after use, but it should go into a relatively stable state for a long time if not being damaged.
The published data should be the measurement of a well broken-in sample instead of a 'brand new' one. There're some decent manufacturers providing good enough data. For closed boxes, in which the tolerance of alignment is quite large, so a set of good enough data would be pretty much good enough.
Of course it'd be better to measure the parameters yourself to make sure what exactly you are dealing with. WT3 is a convenient tool if you want to do so.
The published data should be the measurement of a well broken-in sample instead of a 'brand new' one. There're some decent manufacturers providing good enough data. For closed boxes, in which the tolerance of alignment is quite large, so a set of good enough data would be pretty much good enough.
Of course it'd be better to measure the parameters yourself to make sure what exactly you are dealing with. WT3 is a convenient tool if you want to do so.
Any suggestions for measuring environment? Type of the mic (i read somewhere that low freq. recording needs different kind of mic) distance (i think close as possible to avoid the room anomaly) should i put the driver in a box or just measure it in free air?
The WT3 is looking good but i don't want to spend this much on something i wont use often...
The WT3 is looking good but i don't want to spend this much on something i wont use often...
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For designing cabinet, you'd mostly need T/S parameters. Such measurement is done in free air by analysing the impedance curve. By WT3, that is.
Maybe it's also doable by a soundcard with certain software, I'm not sure if there's such a thing on market or among DIYers.
As to other acoustical measurements, I'm no expert, but you'd find them useful after your build, to examine the result for furthur tuning etc.
Maybe it's also doable by a soundcard with certain software, I'm not sure if there's such a thing on market or among DIYers.
As to other acoustical measurements, I'm no expert, but you'd find them useful after your build, to examine the result for furthur tuning etc.
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