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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 14th January 2004, 12:26 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCD
I added a few twists of my own

And very interesting twists Scott came up with... i'm going to have to make a pilgramige to the great Campbell City to hear how they turn out... sometime after they have a couple hundred hours on them.

dave

PS... the pic of the 167 above is one of Scott's
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Old 14th January 2004, 05:01 AM   #72
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finally, some people talking about messing with the wiki. I came here about 6 months ago knowing nothing, browsing around, andi stumbled onto the wiki. it had nothing in there that would help a total newbie. it was pretty much empty. so yes, any kind of list of projects/kits would be great.

I like the idea about diferent large/small cheap, large/small not so cheap. people come here with all kinds of budgets, from poor high school students on up.

just my 2 cents. i think this thread is great. somebody should have started it earlier.
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Old 14th January 2004, 12:08 PM   #73
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Well, I decided on a FE 167e in a ML TL. Dave gave me some good ideas for the box design and I added a few twists of my own. So far things are looking great and the boxes will be going together in the next few days. I hope to post pictures of the product when complete.
Good for you. I'm sure I speak for many others when I say we look forward to your "show and tell." You make some very good points when describing you design considerations, and that's exactly why I'd like to see a "same speaker reference," so we can make more objectve recommendations for the for the newbie and their objectives.

Seems to me that the Fostex 167E is a wonderful driver for a first time FR project, and aptly comparable (in price) to the small two-ways that we've been discussing. I've long wanted to use a Fostex when I'm more confident with my modeling skills, and ready to purchase higher priced drivers.

Would it be too much to ask, for someone who is proficient with Martin King's worksheets to post a design?

Quote:
I wouldn't recommend anyone build it verbatum -- some of the concepts in it are kinda nice thou.
Is the idea of the open terminus on the front of the cab one of them? It seems like a very efficient way of folding a TL, even if you give up the floor bass reinforcement, and a convienient(perhaps) future tweeter placement. Very tidy.
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Old 14th January 2004, 12:34 PM   #74
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Well said, 5th element.

That first speaker project is so important. It's the confidence booster that the newbie needs and it helps if it's a good design. The newbie then has to sit back and then learn why it works.

The Vifa P13 & D27 design I listed must be perfect (hehehehe) as nobody's changed it.
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Old 14th January 2004, 02:16 PM   #75
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Hi rabbitz

i too want to build something along the lines of the vifas, however with P17 & D27 or the D25

i had a chance to listen to a P17 and D25 in a vented floorstander with only a 5.6uf on the tweeter and they sounded fantastic in a 5m x 8m ish room. they were powered by LM1875s so im assuming very little power was going into them, i have a feeling that id easily blow then with the single cap crossover with my LM3875s.


has anyone come across any plans online for a a vented floorstander using these drivers?


have you seen this raymondaudio TL design using the P17?
http://www.raymondaudio.nl/projects/...project10.html
i assume the P13 / P17 are fairly similar

have a look particularly at his use, or lack of, this baffle step simulator in regards to your tweeter placement question
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/d...ownloadbds.htm

im looking at chris's folded TL, but they look like alotta work atm
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/chris/

its good that the D27 & D25 and if you look hard enough the P17 is still available in Aus.
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Old 14th January 2004, 03:43 PM   #76
SCD is offline SCD  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by x. onasis
Would it be too much to ask, for someone who is proficient with Martin King's worksheets to post a design?
I will include my sketches when I post my project. My design may not be for the newbie woodworker.
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Old 14th January 2004, 05:25 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally posted by x. onasis
Would it be too much to ask, for someone who is proficient with Martin King's worksheets to post a design?
Scott's box is based on Bob Brine's pipe.

http://geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/...MLTL/Main.html

One can choose to run will the "limited" info on the web page, or pay for a package of very complete plans and details depending on your level of confidence (or if you feel it is only right to reward Bob & Martin for their work).

Quote:
Is the idea of the open terminus on the front of the cab one of them? It seems like a very efficient way of folding a TL, even if you give up the floor bass reinforcement, and a convienient(perhaps) future tweeter placement. Very tidy.
No... the idea of the ML-TL (and ML-TQWT) was 1st expicitly expressed by Augspurger, practical examples shown by Martin King (and he showed that despite some similarities an ML-TL or ML-TQWT are not bass relexes), and used to some extent, almost by accident, in some classic designs.

This line is not folded, and if you don't resort to trickery -- like scott -- very easy to build.

dave
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Old 14th January 2004, 05:28 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCD
My design may not be for the newbie woodworker.
From Scott's descriptions, even the veteran woodworker may shy away

dave
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Old 15th January 2004, 12:05 PM   #79
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Hi phs

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you should be able to use a standmounted design for the P17 & D25 in a floorstander and just seal off the volume you don't need. Had to seal off a section in a set of Peerless floorstanders where I needed 32 litres in a 36 litre box.

Here's a MTM floorstander design using the P17 & D25.
http://www.kaiaudio.com/diy2001/kaiopen.html

I'd say the D26's should hold up well with a single cap. I use series crossovers with only a 6 dB slope and have had no problems, but then I'm not stupid on the volume control either.
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Old 15th January 2004, 03:09 PM   #80
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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You can reduce the volume with a block of wood.
Better is to add more bracing!
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