diyAudio reference speaker project - Page 41 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 13th October 2012, 04:44 AM   #401
DeonC is offline DeonC  South Africa
diyAudio Member
 
DeonC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kimberley, South-Africa
Here is a good example of a FAST design, and might be a very good suggestion for to be the diyAudio reference speaker:

FAST build with Alpair 7.3 and Seas L26ROY and Hypex AS2.100

Ok, so skip the very fancy cabinerty, but the design is simple enough, and considering the quality of drivers used, when optimised, it should sound awesome. Just my $0.02.

Enjoy,
Deon
__________________
I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
Have a look at my favorite thread: Interesting YouTube video clips
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 06:06 AM   #402
diyAudio Member
 
Moondog55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
FAST hasn't been mentioned but as you say plenty of threads on the subject. With all due respect to Dave I never heard a small full-ranger that sounded quite as good as the P-13 + D-27 combo
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING"
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 06:14 AM   #403
DeonC is offline DeonC  South Africa
diyAudio Member
 
DeonC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kimberley, South-Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moondog55 View Post
FAST hasn't been mentioned but as you say plenty of threads on the subject. With all due respect to Dave I never heard a small full-ranger that sounded quite as good as the P-13 + D-27 combo
I am inclined to agree with you, but the XO needed for the P-13 combination is much more difficult to design and optimise (just ask Lynn). My suggestion is for a speaker that will be relatively foolproof and muck less sensitive to XO parts quality (considering it is to be active). Amp are not hard to make- something like the inverted gainclone. Or just buy a pair of Hypex 30w modules.

Enjoy,
Deon

Hypex shop
Hypex UcD34MP 4 x 30w module
__________________
I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
Have a look at my favorite thread: Interesting YouTube video clips

Last edited by DeonC; 13th October 2012 at 06:23 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:05 AM   #404
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moondog55 View Post
With all due respect to Dave I never heard a small full-ranger that sounded quite as good as the P-13 + D-27 combo


It is interesting that Chris had a P13 + D27* system to start our team back over a decade ago. The P13 & 2 pair of the tweeter are here somewhere collecting dust due to many more satisfying speakers.

* (and that modded to considerably better than stock)

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:14 AM   #405
diyAudio Member
 
Moondog55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeonC View Post
I am inclined to agree with you, but the XO needed for the P-13 combination is much more difficult to design and optimise (just ask Lynn). My suggestion is for a speaker that will be relatively foolproof and muck less sensitive to XO parts quality (considering it is to be active). Amp are not hard to make- something like the inverted gainclone. Or just buy a pair of Hypex 30w modules.

Enjoy,
Deon

Hypex shop
Hypex UcD34MP 4 x 30w module
Yes but not all speaker builders are amp and EXO builders (I ain't for sure) so this was always going to be a passive project I think.
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING"
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:22 AM   #406
diyAudio Member
 
Moondog55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post


It is interesting that Chris had a P13 + D27* system to start our team back over a decade ago. The P13 & 2 pair of the tweeter are here somewhere collecting dust due to many more satisfying speakers.

* (and that modded to considerably better than stock)

dave
They may indeed exist Dave but I haven't heard any of them, I live in a speaker builders wasteland here. I have heard a few good big ones when living in Melbourne but for most people a good 8inch full range is a little expensive
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING"
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th October 2012, 03:47 PM   #407
bjohng is offline bjohng  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
There have been many suggestions to go with bipole (push/push?) particularly in difficult rooms.

My problem is that I don't have a clear idea of how to achieve this.

Does the cabinet volume double

With drivers facing out (front & back) are they wired out of phase?

Is there a consensus of whether 1 or 2 tweeters are preferred?


I have the Vifa drivers.
__________________
bjohng
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st October 2012, 01:11 AM   #408
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
rabbitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
For a bipole read this.
The TLb -- Introduction


I don't know if bipoles help with difficult rooms and maybe a 2.5 way could be an option. Either way, with the driver sets wired in parallel, the impedance will halve and fall below 4 ohm which could be a problem for some amplifiers. If that's the case, then bi-amping would be required. For a 2.5 way, a 3.9mH - 5.6mH (DCR 0R6 max) inductor would be required for the 0.5 woofer and the tweeter resistor may have to be lowered depending on taste.

Volume does double to 19 litres and the port would need to be increased in diameter (68mm min) to decrease chuffing. For a 68mm port, the length would be 66mm to achieve similar tuning but with dual woofers a lower Fb would be better..... use 80mm-90mm in length.

The drivers would be wired in phase.
__________________
No longer DIY active
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st October 2012, 01:19 PM   #409
bjohng is offline bjohng  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
The Tlb uses front and back tweeters which is why I asked the question. Others have told me that using only one gives a more coherent sound stage and have even suggested that for bipole the tweeter should be on the back in cases where front speaker is running full range (PW13H).

Any thoughts?

Two further questions arise from your earlier response.

If the bipole arrangement eliminates the need for BSC then is there some min/max width/depth that can not be exceeded for this to work?

Your idea for a 2.5 is not something I had considered before. By bi-amping, did you mean two separate amplifiers or independent wiring from a single amplifier? Would I use the the same crossover on the mains that you suggested for your last iteration? Does this include BSC?

Thanks for your input. The road ahead is gradually getting clearer.
__________________
bjohng
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd October 2012, 02:56 AM   #410
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
rabbitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
A bipole needs both tweeter and woofer on front and back. A speaker with 1 tweeter cannot be a bipole and that's why I suggested a 2.5 way.

BSC is basically a function of the baffle width but with a bipole or a 2.5 way, the second woofer gives back what is lost by the front woofer so baffle width is not critical.

Bi-amping means 2 power amplifiers per speaker so 4 channels for a stereo speaker or 2 stereo amps. The crossover for a 2.5 way would be:
The TM (2-way part) see post #392 diyAudio reference speaker project
The 0.5 woofer see post #408 gives automatic BSC.

A bipole would need a different crossover all together and none of mine would work so see the TLb.
__________________
No longer DIY active
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:38 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2