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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Atlanta GA
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Topic says it all. First speaker build project application music listening rock celtic classical. Small room appox 12 by 12.
WHich would better suit my needs? DO both need a Sub? Would rather stay away from a sub if possible, is there another good starter set ? Would like to stay at appoximately this price range no more than $200. Thanks in advance hope to someday beable to foolw some of the discussions here grins |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: British Columbia ,Canada
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The Super Elf was designed for HT and use with a sub.
It will take music vocals very very well. When I first designed them for CSS Bob was a little superprized to hear what he was getting out of 2 3" speakers.But the 871 goes out to 23 K so it should should a little impressive. Anyway against the BR1 kit the BR1 will give you a finished cabinet with a larger driver as well. Not that I am dissing the SE but if you want the larger driver got to the BR1. I have listened to them and find the upper end detail not as rich and teailed as the SE is.As well the cabinet size can come into play for some people. Both will need a sub hands down. Pick is yours Al |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Atlanta GA
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Thanks so much for the reply.
Which sub is recomended for use with SE? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: British Columbia ,Canada
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For the money at this time for Small HT use .
The TB ported in a 1cft cabinet with the Solen Sub 100 amp. More than enough for a budget HT. If you want more than the TB go to the Shiva in a 17" cabinet using the AVA250 AMP. But for a small room the TB ported will give a vry very good bottom end off the SE. With out a lot out of the pocket. Al RAW ACOUSTICS |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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IMO the BR-1 would not need a subwoofer for music
in a 12' x 12' (unfortunate shape) small room. Don't know much about the ELF as documentation is poor. With the BR-1 you'll only a sub if your a bass freak. Just get some decent stands for the BR-1's. (and damp the cabinets with vinyl floor tiles) |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Atlanta GA
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ok why is a square room and unfortunate shape?
I think I read here 5 layers of viny tiles , are the cabinets too thin in the standard Br-1? Thanks again for the help |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
room as two of the 3 room dimensions are identical. The 12ft room mode frequency is 47Hz. It will be difficult to extend bass below this frequency without boom at this frequency. You may need to experiment with port damping. Standmounting clear of walls / corners will help smooth bass. The 2nd room modes will at 94Hz. The room will be difficult to drive inbetween, specifically around 66Hz. Ideally the room height mode should be at this frequency to help, so if room height is between 8 and 9 feet this will help a lot. B) the BR-1 cabinets are 12mm MDF which is normal commercial practice for that size of cabinet. I feel adding damping is an easy and worthwhile option. With thicker walls it becomes difficult to add enough damping to be worthwhile. Use the cheapest and thinnest floor tiles you can find, the more layers there are the better it is for damping. Cover the main central area of the side and back panels with a pad made from ~ 5 layers of thin tiles total thickness ~ 4mm. This will improve the midrange performance. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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An alternative might be a compact floorstander with an
overdamped reflex alignment or a T/L tuned to near 33Hz in an attempt to drive the room below resonance. This or something similar could possibly work well : http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...l/default.html |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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P.S. in the above T/L design the angled sections are too long, they should be shortened somewhat.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
which TB driver do you you recommend? thanks |
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