Which Seas Kit...?

[Monroe]

Hi!

Based on the input from from the scanspeak vs seas thread, I've decided to go w/with one of the seas kits.

I know that I would rather not build the floorstanding thor (space concern), but that leaves the other four models - two MTM and two TM speakers.

What sort of differences are there in the sound from the seas MTM units vs. the MTs?

I like the looks of the trym - the larger single 8 inch woofer one - and the price (several hundred less than the MTMs), but am wondering if the cheaper / simpler design sacrifices much quality.

- i.e. are the MTM's [odin and froy] better? What are the advantages of the MTM design in terms of the sound (besides the greater sensitivity)?


Thanks!

[michael]

your choice should be based also on the needs of this loudspeaker.
1. SPL requirements
2. efficiency requirements
3. Application, eg. Home Theatre, Music (Low or High volume)
4. Low end reponse

after you work out what your needs and what demands will be placed on the loud speaker then you can decide on what kit.

[postman]

Not trying to steal your thread but i am too intrested in a seas kit. Basically i would want speakers that can play music loudly and keep the quality. Low end would probably only need to go down to 60hz or so. Ive got 80 watts each channel so they wouldnt need to be that efficient.

[michael]

well postman i may as well answer your post here, id recomend one of the MTM kits, as they dont go that low and need a sub to work so their efficiency would pay off.

[Monroe]

Originally posted by michael
your choice should be based also on the needs of this loudspeaker.
1. SPL requirements
2. efficiency requirements
3. Application, eg. Home Theatre, Music (Low or High volume)
4. Low end reponse

after you work out what your needs and what demands will be placed on the loud speaker then you can decide on what kit.

1./2.

Sensitivity and SPL - I have 87 db efficient speakers right now an a 100 WPC amp, which goes to 10. I rarely play it past 2 or 3, and dont think i have ever turned it past 5 for normal listening.

3. My main application is for music. Sometimes i watch movies with them, but not 'home theatre' really, just stereo. I am undemanding as far as the HT goes. I am more interested in the quality for music.

4. I would like low end response, but its not a big deal - i can put in a subwoofer for a bit more kick.

My biggest concern is general mid/high quality, not quantity of bass or massive loudness.

Based on that, which kit would be best?

thanks!

[sreten]

Originally posted by Monroe
Hi!

What sort of differences are there in the sound from the seas MTM units vs. the MTs?

I like the looks of the trym - the larger single 8 inch woofer one - and the price (several hundred less than the MTMs), but am wondering if the cheaper / simpler design sacrifices much quality.

- i.e. are the MTM's [odin and froy] better? What are the advantages of the MTM design in terms of the sound (besides the greater sensitivity)?

Thanks!

Other than sensitivitivity with low impedance and higher maximum
SPL MTM are actually worse sounding than the equivalent MT.

Note that the 18cm design is easy to convert to a standard reflex,
there are a few cabinet designs available on the web for this unit.

The 22cm design with a very good cabinet and slightly lower tuned
port should not need a subwoofer, probably sound worse with one.

sreten.

[Monroe]

Originally posted by sreten

Other than sensitivitivity with low impedance and higher maximum
SPL MTM are actually worse sounding than the equivalent MT.

The 22cm design with a very good cabinet and slightly lower tuned
port should not need a subwoofer, probably sound worse with one.
sreten.

Hurray!

Just what I had hoped for! I like the looks of the Trym speaker, the price is nicer by several hundred dollars (i'm a student), and the ability to play without a subwoofer is nice too. (Im not too big on massive thumpy bass, I listen to light rock, acoustic stuff, folk, different instrumental or jazz bits, etc.)

Thanks!

Eoop - i should ask before i rush off with a saw - any strong caveats about this sort of design..? is it particularly sensitive to anything?

oh...

I listen often enough off-axis somewhat- is that going to mess things up big time with an 8 inch woofer?

[sreten]

Originally posted by Monroe

Eoop - i should ask before i rush off with a saw - any strong caveats about this sort of design..? is it particularly sensitive to anything?
oh...
I listen often enough off-axis somewhat- is that going to mess things up big time with an 8 inch woofer?

The off axis performance is good.

You'll also need a decent pair of stands.

The Tryn cabinet design is very basic IMO considering the quality
of the drivers used. I'd consider a substantial cabinet redesign
(possibly floor standing) with lots of bracing and adding some
offset to the tweeter (mirror image pairs).

sreten.

[Monroe]

Originally posted by sreten


The Tryn cabinet design is very basic IMO considering the quality
of the drivers used. I'd consider a substantial cabinet redesign
(possibly floor standing) with lots of bracing and adding some
offset to the tweeter (mirror image pairs).

sreten.

Cool... I don't want to go floor standing unless that would mean a huge diff in quality - i would much rather have smaller cabinets like the one pictured on the original seas design.

What sort of bracing should be used? Is that matrix style swiss cheese design difficult to implement? (i.e. does it need to be carfully calculated, or does anything rigid with lots of holes work ok?)

Is there a specific place to offset the tweeter that works best, or just move it an inch or two, to taste?

[sreten]

Cool... I don't want to go floor standing unless that would mean a huge diff in quality - i would much rather have smaller cabinets like the one pictured on the original seas design.

Stand mounters are better than floor standing, but you need decent stands.

What sort of bracing should be used? Is that matrix style swiss cheese design difficult to implement? (i.e. does it need to be carfully calculated, or does anything rigid with lots of holes work ok?)

Matrix style is difficult. Really how long is a piece of string.
There are lots of ways of doing it, and I haven't tried them.

I'd suggest an offset figure of eight brace for the main cabinet.
Reinforcing ther front baffle between bass/mid and the tweeter
and between bass/mid and the port.
Reinforce the back above the hole for the terminal block.

But there are other ways of doing it.

Is there a specific place to offset the tweeter that works best, or just move it an inch or two, to taste?

Basically try and make the three path lengths to the two edges
and the top as different as possible.

sreten.