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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 11th March 2014, 11:48 PM   #1
lexer98 is offline lexer98  Argentina
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Default First DIY 3-Way Speakers / Questions & Advices

Hello guys ... I builded my first speakers, after reading A LOT ! for weeks , but I have some doubts witch can't find the answer in google.

THE BOX
I calculated the box with WinISD... my woofer Audifiel BX8 (Argentinian brand ... a bit cheapo but in my country is really hard find a good hi-fi speaker) need a 23lts box, so i made a box of 26lts with a 2lts enclosure for the mid-range .... the rest of the volume is for the insulation.

THE CROSSOVER

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Is a 6db/Oct with a -5dB L-pad for the tweeter ... (maybe in the future i made a 12db/oct ...).
I need to redo the coil woofer beacuse i used very thin wire and the DC resistance is very high
(The high-pass filter capacitor is soldered on the tweeter)

PICTURES

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QUESTIONS

>The vent are too close of the woofer ? beacause i searched comercial and DIY bass reflex vented back speakers and all I saw are usually are away from the woofer axis (usually in the middle or above)
> I can't find any audio grade capacitor for the crossover ... a quality motor start capacitor are good for crossovers ? ... Now i using a really cheap chinese NP capacitor

Any advice or constructive criticism are welcome.

Thanks
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Old 12th March 2014, 03:16 AM   #2
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re:"The vent are too close of the woofer" - no
re:"motor start capacitor are good for crossovers ? " - yes
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 12th March 2014, 03:22 AM   #3
lexer98 is offline lexer98  Argentina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteMcK View Post
re:"The vent are too close of the woofer" - no
re:"motor start capacitor are good for crossovers ? " - yes
Thanks bro !
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Old 12th March 2014, 05:30 AM   #4
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The tweeter should have a lighter and much littler membrane to produce some sensible output above 8-10 kHz
...but you know that !
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Old 12th March 2014, 03:34 PM   #5
lexer98 is offline lexer98  Argentina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picowallspeaker View Post
The tweeter should have a lighter and much littler membrane to produce some sensible output above 8-10 kHz
...but you know that !
I take from a old ken brown valve stereo ... because i can't afford a pearless o something like that
Sound quite good for my, but in the future i'll change it for a better one

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Old 15th March 2014, 11:01 PM   #6
lexer98 is offline lexer98  Argentina
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"The bigger the better"

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I redo all the coils with 0,95mm wire (AWG 18) ... 0,7 Ohms DCR vs 1,8 Ohms DCR of my first coil, now the crossover doesn't lower so many dB as before, ... i think -6dB L-PAD is too much .... but don't have any decent amplifier to test well my speakers only a amplifier from a Edifier speakers (10W RMS )
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Last edited by lexer98; 15th March 2014 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 23rd March 2014, 12:30 AM   #7
lexer98 is offline lexer98  Argentina
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I removed the L-pad because -5dB is too much ... (i need to measure the sensibility with a good SPL meter), move the vent to from now the bass are more present, add damping in the walls and polish the tweeter hole for a better off-axis performance maybe i will add foam around the hole
I'm happy with the sound now, but the mid range sound a bit bad .... is a chinese piece of *** but maybe is the damping material because it is a very cheap polyfill compared to that used in the walls ... i'll try to change it
Here is the T/S values .... the subenclosure have a vol. of 2lts aprox

SUGGESTIONS ?

Fs, 125.26, Hz
Re, 6.71, ohms[dc]
Qt, 0.86, -
Qes, 1.12, -
Qms, 3.72, -
Mms, 3.08, grams
Rms, 0.718181, kg/s
Cms, 0.000528, m/N
Vas, 1.97, liters
Sd, 51.53, cm^2
Bl, 4.002361, Tm
ETA, 0.36, %
Lp(2.83V/1m), 88.48, dB
, ,
Le, 179.97, uH
L2, 236.33, uH
R2, 8.16, ohms
L3, 0, uH
R3, 0, ohms


Need paint

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