I have completely enclosed wooden speakers, I'm going to tri-amp it, so I need to connect 6 new wires to the 3 drivers inside the enclosure,
What is the best way to do it ?
Should I just hammer some pure copper nails into it and solder the wires on each side or is there an already made item out there with this specific purpose ?
Does anyone know the best way to go about this ?
Thank you
What is the best way to do it ?
Should I just hammer some pure copper nails into it and solder the wires on each side or is there an already made item out there with this specific purpose ?
Does anyone know the best way to go about this ?
Thank you
Hot melt's a bit dodgy over time, if you're going to go glue then yellow builder's glue is a decent choice.
There are bulkhead terminals you can buy that require only round cutout(s) to insert if you really wanted to do that. Standard chassis bulkheads won't reach through the wood and/or not seal enough.
There are bulkhead terminals you can buy that require only round cutout(s) to insert if you really wanted to do that. Standard chassis bulkheads won't reach through the wood and/or not seal enough.
Neutrik Speakon NLT8MP (socket) plus NL8FC (plug). Seal it with a strip of closed-cell self-adhesive weather-strip foam (same as for the drivers); it compresses down to nothing.
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Neutrik Speakon NLT8MP (socket) plus NL8FC (plug). Seal it with a strip of closed-cell self-adhesive weather-strip foam (same as for the drivers); it compresses down to nothing.
How about "Closed-Cell Sponge Rubber Tape" ?
Would that provide a better seal ?
(This black neoprene sponge rubber foam tape is perfect for filling small cracks. It is auto-adhesive, flexible and very easy to install and provide a barrier against the cold, the heat, dust and noise. You can use it around doors, windows, attic hatches and even in your vehicles.)
Should I just hammer some pure copper nails into it and solder the wires on each side
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Those nails usually called as speaker terminalsShould I just hammer some pure copper nails into it
Here's another vote for Neutrik Speakon connectors. I hope for the day when they are 'audiophile approved' and become an acceptable, even preferred, speaker connection in the entire audio market.
I have retrofitted some of my amps with them and am seriously considering doing the same for my speakers as well.
I have retrofitted some of my amps with them and am seriously considering doing the same for my speakers as well.
works with up to 1" thick panels
Dayton Audio BPA-38NI HD Binding Post Pair Nickel | 091-1246
Dayton Audio BPA-38NI HD Binding Post Pair Nickel | 091-1246
Not necessarily a bad idea, but you might char your finish with the amount of heat you need to get the copper to melt the solder.Nails it is !
No Nails!
When you solder the nails, the heat will break the air seal with the wood if there is one.
Use Neutrik Speakon 4-pole connectors [1]. Double up the poles for each leg of a driver circuit.
If you want them recessed, make a cut out in the enclosure and then use 1/4" Aluminum Plate as a terminal board and seal with an adhesive backed rubber gasket material. For these materials see [2].
N.B.: Protect the Mind Range & Tweeter with D,C. Blocking Capacitors.
Regards,
WHG
References:
[1] Markertec
Neutrik USA Inc Neutrik NLT4FP 4 Pole Metal Chassis Mount Speaker Connector Speakon Connectors at Markertek.com
[2] McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
I have completely enclosed wooden speakers, I'm going to tri-amp it, so I need to connect 6 new wires to the 3 drivers inside the enclosure,
What is the best way to do it ?
Should I just hammer some pure copper nails into it and solder the wires on each side or is there an already made item out there with this specific purpose ?
Does anyone know the best way to go about this ?
Thank you
When you solder the nails, the heat will break the air seal with the wood if there is one.
Use Neutrik Speakon 4-pole connectors [1]. Double up the poles for each leg of a driver circuit.
If you want them recessed, make a cut out in the enclosure and then use 1/4" Aluminum Plate as a terminal board and seal with an adhesive backed rubber gasket material. For these materials see [2].
N.B.: Protect the Mind Range & Tweeter with D,C. Blocking Capacitors.
Regards,
WHG
References:
[1] Markertec
Neutrik USA Inc Neutrik NLT4FP 4 Pole Metal Chassis Mount Speaker Connector Speakon Connectors at Markertek.com
[2] McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
I was thinking of doing what the OP said, as the job is facilitated by the wires from scrap. Of course I'm gonna terminate 'em with goldened Fastons on one
side. So... that sounds like another pair of VC to speaker's binding posts but bigger ! Should I solder them both sides
side. So... that sounds like another pair of VC to speaker's binding posts but bigger ! Should I solder them both sides
If you are into banana jacks, then the tube terminals in this kit would catch your eye.
LGK 1.0's are here
I don't have a link for these terminals but perhaps someone will assist us.
LGK 1.0's are here
I don't have a link for these terminals but perhaps someone will assist us.
I settled on drilling a hole just big enough for each single wire to pass through, then just spread some hot glue on the wire from the inside and feed it through to seal it,
This way, you can bypass every single adapter or connector that will degrade the signal, and Connect the wire right to the wires from amplifier, you dont even need to solder them, just twist them together !
This is especially useful if you are using all silver plated wires, and is by Far the best and easiest And economical method !!
Enjoy the simplicity of ingenuity
This way, you can bypass every single adapter or connector that will degrade the signal, and Connect the wire right to the wires from amplifier, you dont even need to solder them, just twist them together !
This is especially useful if you are using all silver plated wires, and is by Far the best and easiest And economical method !!
Enjoy the simplicity of ingenuity
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