Veneer finishing - darken the color?

[tktran]

I've just purchased some raw veneer (2400 x 1200 x 0.6 mm) and am wondering how to finish them for a satin finish (slightly glossed)

The veneer is Tasmanian Myrtle, and mine is a pinkish color, like the myrtle bowl shown here, except unpolished.

http://www.piecesofwood.com/shop/ind...?shop=1&cat=15

But how would I deepen the color? I'd like the 'deep red myrtle' that Tasmanian Myrtle is known for. For people outside Australia it is similar to a red/brown Mahogany finish. A color closer to the myrtle veneers shown below:

The second picture show at the bottom of this page:
http://yumahardwoods.homestead.com/pinkmyrtle.html

Or even a nicer red tone:
http://www.tastimber.tas.gov.au/species/myrtle_01.asp

I've investigated stains but since the colors are shown on pine, which is a very white wood, I do not know how the stain will look on the pink myrtle.

A friend suggested a good varnish that deepens the substrate with each additional coat. Except it was years ago when he used itm and no longer remembers what type/brand? it was.

Is this a good solution? Something that will gradually deepen the veneer with each coat. Hopefully this will allow me to gradually depeen it until I find jus the right the red/brown tone.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

Sorry I will borrow a digital camera and take a photo of the veneer tomorrow.

[Edit: changed links to pictures that more closely resemble the original and desired colors]

[mwmkravchenko]

Seal the veneer with a blonde shellac. Two to three light coats. snading with a 320 or so grit inbetween coats ( provided that you allready did your ground work of applying the veneer and sandind it down nice a smooth ) Get yourself some ngr stain which is basically an aniline dye mixed into an alcohol. Get one that is approximately the colour that you want. Mix the stain in a small container with a laquer. It may be a brushing laquer if you are brushing or a spraying laquer if you are spraying. ( any laquer can be thinned out to brush it with a good quality fine haired brush ) Then start coating it. You can manipulate the colour by the number of coats that you make. Therefore it is advisable to not mix up something that is too dark and to practice on some scrap veneer. The biggest mistake that I usually make is in not mixing enough to do the whole job. So fool around with a small volume and when you have your "legs" mix up enough for the whole job. This method produces some of the most spectacular finnishes. Top coats with two or three coats of clear laquer ( sanding inbetween with 600 grit or higher and using soapy water as a lubricant. Clean of inbetween each coat with a clean cloth and be patient in between coats. ) Let it dry well about a month and for the ultimate finish you may want to bub it out with pumice and rotten stone or a good automotive rubbing compund.

Mark

[bobcat190]

Don't laugh at me!

I always use shoe polish on unfinished wood. It is does not shine great but i use oil and can get a nice gloss look. i would suggest you take a bit of scrap wood and try some of the Liquid shoe polish and see if it can't give you the look your going for.......some cheap guy.

[rabbitz]

Have a look at the Wattyl Estapol One-Step stain satin. Had to use this on some Jarrah to match a centre speaker to some mains.

http://www.wattyl.com.au/cf/wattyl/w..._Sheet_No=5.10

[Bose(o)]

Hey mwmkravchenko,

When I attempt to veneer my other speakers you're welcome to stop by! I have finished my fronts so far, but I want more....perhaps piano gloss black..mmm....Where abouts do u live in Ottawa?

[mwmkravchenko]

I feel like one of those monkeys in a row all grooming each other!

Yeah sure! I live on the corner of baseline and clyde.

Mark

[gonefishin]

Hi...I've recently been looking at various exotics (for a preamp project)...and I believe your running into the same problem as I've seen with varying exotics. The color such as bloodwood will vary from slightly pink...to a gorgeous deep red. Problem is...the deep red is tough to find, at least for me.
It sounds like you've just got a piece of veneer that has a pinkish color instead of the reddish that you like.

Myrtle

Colour - Myrtle heartwood is pale pink to deep red, occasionally with pale yellow-grey streaks. Sapwood is white to light pink.

Grain - Grain is mainly straight and occasionally wavy with clearly visible growth rings.

Texture - Fine, uniform and smooth.

Durability - Class 4 (refer to AS 1604). Myrtle has good durability for decorative, architectural and structural applications internally but is not recommended for external use. The in-ground durability of heartwood is low.

[jbateman]

You can get a very inexpensive red mahogany dye powder from Constantines.com. Mix with water and apply several times with a sponge to even out the color. Finish with satin polyurethane, wipe-on version from MinWax works ok.

[Bose(o)]

Seems to work nicely! Hey, is that a GR Research driver?

[jbateman]

Originally posted by Bose(o)
Seems to work nicely! Hey, is that a GR Research driver?

Yeah, one of the guys at the MAD forum recently posted his experience and a few pics building them:
http://diyspeakers.curtainselect.com/