open baffle loudspeakers and room size - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 30th January 2004, 10:23 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Greenville SC
Send a message via AIM to Chris8sirhC
hmm maby ill have to give that a try when im done with my current project... good luck
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st January 2004, 09:46 AM   #12
Nielsio is offline Nielsio  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
Nielsio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The Netherlands
Default Re: Beyma 8AG/N

Quote:
Originally posted by swak
I`ve been experimenting with this driver. Placed it on a (roughly) 60cm x 100cm cardboard baffle (just to try out) and while I got nice dry bass, the upper freq responce was intolerable - kind of nasal bright sound, like an unboxed driver usually sounds.

I'm not trying to say OB dont do it, my implementation is perhaps wrong for using a cardboard baffle. Has anyone else actually used this driver? Is cardboard not good even for tests?
I'd expect you're talking about the 8 khz peak:
Click the image to open in full size.

Any comments, Kuei?

Also, what does the Qtw 1,15 mean in terms of OB suitability?
__________________
Behringer DEQ2496 . Twisted Pear Buffalo II DAC . JLTi tube buffered LM3875 . Supravox 215 Signature Bicone 125L vented
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st January 2004, 10:28 AM   #13
miguel2 is offline miguel2  Portugal
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portugal
The beyma may be a little thin on the bass side as the graphic shows. In an OB this may get worse. On comparison, the supravox goes much lower. Of course, prices are not comparable, but I wonder how is the difference in sound.

Miguel
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st January 2004, 12:29 PM   #14
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Texas
Default How about the 10AG/N?

Hi,

how about the Beyma 10AG/N? I think the price is still much lower than the Supravox.

Thanks for the kind input.


Best wishes,
Russell SIT
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st January 2004, 02:10 PM   #15
Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Default Re: Re: Beyma 8AG/N

Konnichiwa,

Quote:
Originally posted by Nielsio
I'd expect you're talking about the 8 khz peak:
Click the image to open in full size.

Any comments, Kuei?
Yes. Beyma in general is quite honest with their specs and their response curves look a lot different.

Quote:
Originally posted by Nielsio
Also, what does the Qtw 1,15 mean in terms of OB suitability?
It means very well suited.

Sayonara
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd February 2004, 07:10 PM   #16
miguel2 is offline miguel2  Portugal
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portugal
Swak,

Have you tried these drivers a bit more after this discussion? I would be interested in knowing how they sound.

Miguel
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th February 2004, 04:55 PM   #17
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: .
Miguel,

No I havent had the time to try it. Ill play some pink noise through them and then try again. Dunno when...
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th June 2004, 04:58 PM   #18
miguel2 is offline miguel2  Portugal
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portugal
Hi,

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I have been playing with Beyma 8ag/n speakers on card baffles for some time. Although the baffles are not exactly ideal (they vibrate with the sound) I find the sound quite refreshing and open. Compared to my B&W DM601s, the Beyma's confortably win, even on these baffles. The problems arise on frequency extremes.

A sine wave of 15kHz is fine to my hears but at 17.5kHz there is no sound at all (at least I cant hear it). So I guess that a tweeter is missing here. As it is only above this high frequency, I really don't know what to put there.

Below 100 Hz the same thing hapens. I have to try a el-pipe-o style sub to check if it goes well here. Another option is to use a sub like NaO. To make thigs simpler, I am thinking of using a sonotube with around 60cm long and 30 cm diameter with a 12" driver.

Miguel

Edit: I guess that the 96dB of the Beyma's compared with the 88 dB sensitivity of the B&W's also play some role here.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th June 2004, 05:48 PM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
Timn8ter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Mine is very much in the beginning stages but consists of some vintage 8" Corals and tweeters mounted coaxially. Since taking these pictures I've added more frame damping and upped the XO point. Not bad but I seem to be getting some resonance from the plywood baffle. Something thicker/stiffer would help I'm sure. Just thought I'd share.
http://www.alegriaaudio.com/coral_op...le_project.htm
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th June 2004, 09:15 PM   #20
Kensai is offline Kensai  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St. Louis
Send a message via AIM to Kensai
I've just built a pair of quick'n'dirty OBs using a pair of 11.5"x48'x.75" precut raw MDF shelves, the 8" drivers out of my old pair of Yamaha NS-6390s (rated down to 45hz by Yamaha, though I can't get an identity for them by the limited markings on the back), a pair of BG Neo3 PDR with back cup (which had made a phenomenal upgrade to the 4" mid and dome tweeter the NS-6390s came with) crossed over at 2500hz using the hardware the Yammies came with (cheap cap high pass only with the 8"ers running full range). The drivers are mounted at ear level, basically as high in the baffle as possible.

Now I know, the baffle width here is probably way too narrow, but they sound really good. Better, in fact than the same drivers in the relatively large, sealed bookshelf boxes they had been in previously, though the bass response is a bit weaker (fine for maybe 70% of the music I have and maybe 50% of the DVDs I have, but that still leaves alot of room for improvement). All this for $5 worth of MDF, $15 worth of hardware to make the MDF stand up, and a little elbow grease. The elbow grease is a renewable resource, and the MDF apparently grows on trees, so I'm all up for tweaking and improving this design.

The best looking (I've been using the XLS sheet gotten from KYW's website some time ago) simple drop in replacement for the 8" Yammie driver is the Goldwood GW-8028 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-355). It shows an f3 point of about 32Hz (which is actually better than the crappy little 8" sub I've got on hand), but is down about 11dB at 20Hz. It also only shows about a 1dB rise centered around 55Hz or so, so its pretty flat. I know this is just an approximate simulation under ideal conditions not counting the room (which sucks in my case, so I'm not even going to think about that now), but this isn't bad at all for a $35 (for a pair) upgrade, I'm seriously thinking about it. Anyone have any experience with these drivers or have any more expert opinion to offer given their specs?

Now, the best modelling OB driver I've found is the Morel MW-1075 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=297-045) which plots out flat and smooth with and f3 of about 28Hz and is only down about 6.25dB at 20Hz. A couple problems here . . . first, and least importantly, they are 10" drivers, requiring me to purchase more MDF and apply more elbow grease to make new baffles to fit them. Secondly, they would cost me over $230 shipped for a pair (at which point I would have to seriously reconsider my priorities). Those are probably out of consideration for me at this point, but I'd love to hear what anyone thinks or knows (or thinks they know) regarding these in an OB configuration.

As a sort of compromise choice I've found the Goldwood GW-1038 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-360). It hits f3 at about 26Hz and is down about 7.5dB at 20Hz with a nearly 2db peak around 40Hz. These are 10" drivers, too, and would run about $53 for a pair, so doable. They may be a bit less smooth than the 8" Goldwoods, but have even more bass extension. Any thoughts here?

And the last thing is concerning my use of the Neo3s as mid/tweeter. I was wondering if the basic model Neo3 (non PDR with no back cup) would be an appropriate choice here (since that's the version thats on sale now, kinda like the PDR back cup ones were when I picked them up). If I were to pick up replacements for the 8" Yammie drivers, I might also pick up more Neo3s of some flavor and just build another pair of OBs instead of replacing the ones I already have (what I've got would probably be overkill for surround duty so why the heck not use them there if I have the opportunity?) Any thoughts here?

Thanks,
Kensai
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Minimum size for open baffle driver? Javachip Multi-Way 2 28th June 2007 01:06 PM
Open Baffle - What's Your Image Size ? Will Planars & Exotics 3 12th May 2006 06:15 AM
Speaker size v Room size cliffy Multi-Way 6 19th February 2005 09:34 AM
Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker) tktran Multi-Way 13 30th November 2004 12:09 AM
Small Size Open Baffle Question Gunawan W Multi-Way 13 31st December 2003 08:55 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:28 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2