According to Linkwitz, you should have 1m behind an OB speaker. This would make it very difficult in your room. However, others who have built OB speakers say that you don't need that much. It is probably less than ideal, but I think you could make a compact one. It will probably be easier to get one with a reasonable bass response, less output is required.
Hy,
i build ob speakers and my romm is also small. If you want you can use sheave for easy pull the speakers from the wall.But it's not absolute necessary . Also the width of the front panel don't have to be so much bigger than the width of the speaker himself. If you use Dipole Bass, you can let the Speakers near the wall. A Dipol Bass sounds better near a wall. If you wan't look at my homepage. Is an german page, but to find the pictures is easy. It's a Prometheus high efficiency speaker system and i'm verry satisfied with.
Dommi
i build ob speakers and my romm is also small. If you want you can use sheave for easy pull the speakers from the wall.But it's not absolute necessary . Also the width of the front panel don't have to be so much bigger than the width of the speaker himself. If you use Dipole Bass, you can let the Speakers near the wall. A Dipol Bass sounds better near a wall. If you wan't look at my homepage. Is an german page, but to find the pictures is easy. It's a Prometheus high efficiency speaker system and i'm verry satisfied with.
Dommi
Hello Russell,
RS; "I am planning to build a pair of open baffle loudspeakers. My room measures 11' x 12'. I am wondering if it is too small for this kind of speakers?"
JY; Because there is less power put to the room for a given on axis spl with a dipole, they are optimal for a small room.
You will see a reduction in floor to ceiling, and side wall to side wall, room modes. Go for it.
regards, JasonY
RS; "I am planning to build a pair of open baffle loudspeakers. My room measures 11' x 12'. I am wondering if it is too small for this kind of speakers?"
JY; Because there is less power put to the room for a given on axis spl with a dipole, they are optimal for a small room.
You will see a reduction in floor to ceiling, and side wall to side wall, room modes. Go for it.
regards, JasonY
Thanks and happy new year!
Thank you very much for the inputs, and happy new year!
My plan is to get a pair of old full range speakers (alnico or not) and put them into the open baffle configuration. It may be a bit cheaper than to get a new pair from Fostex, Tangband, etc. The Q may also be more optimal for this type of application as some of them were designed to work this way.
I would prefer a non-folded front panel, which would be easier to make (I don't have too many tools at hand). The preliminary dimension would be about 3'x6', with the speaker mounted at ear level, and off centre. They will be placed near the corner of the room, with about 30 to 40cm from the wall at the back, and probably just a few cm from the side walls. Can I have your comment on this plan?
Thanks in advance for your kind help, and again happy new year!
Best wishes,
Russell
Thank you very much for the inputs, and happy new year!
My plan is to get a pair of old full range speakers (alnico or not) and put them into the open baffle configuration. It may be a bit cheaper than to get a new pair from Fostex, Tangband, etc. The Q may also be more optimal for this type of application as some of them were designed to work this way.
I would prefer a non-folded front panel, which would be easier to make (I don't have too many tools at hand). The preliminary dimension would be about 3'x6', with the speaker mounted at ear level, and off centre. They will be placed near the corner of the room, with about 30 to 40cm from the wall at the back, and probably just a few cm from the side walls. Can I have your comment on this plan?
Thanks in advance for your kind help, and again happy new year!
Best wishes,
Russell
Re: Thanks and happy new year!
Konnichiwa,
Sounds a lot like the exact system I have playing here....
Except my Baffles are closer to 2' X 4' in size, made from acylic and I use modern Drivers, the € 255 each Supravox 215 Signature Bicone with C37 lacquered cones.
An inexpensive modern driver to try is the Beyma 8AG/N Fullrange, which will work great open baffle and not break the bank. Upgrade to Supravox later if you like.
Sayonara
Konnichiwa,
Russell Sit said:
Sounds a lot like the exact system I have playing here....
Except my Baffles are closer to 2' X 4' in size, made from acylic and I use modern Drivers, the € 255 each Supravox 215 Signature Bicone with C37 lacquered cones.
An inexpensive modern driver to try is the Beyma 8AG/N Fullrange, which will work great open baffle and not break the bank. Upgrade to Supravox later if you like.
Sayonara
Beyma 8AG/N
I`ve been experimenting with this driver. Placed it on a (roughly) 60cm x 100cm cardboard baffle (just to try out) and while I got nice dry bass, the upper freq responce was intolerable - kind of nasal bright sound, like an unboxed driver usually sounds.
I'm not trying to say OB dont do it, my implementation is perhaps wrong for using a cardboard baffle. Has anyone else actually used this driver? Is cardboard not good even for tests?
I`ve been experimenting with this driver. Placed it on a (roughly) 60cm x 100cm cardboard baffle (just to try out) and while I got nice dry bass, the upper freq responce was intolerable - kind of nasal bright sound, like an unboxed driver usually sounds.
I'm not trying to say OB dont do it, my implementation is perhaps wrong for using a cardboard baffle. Has anyone else actually used this driver? Is cardboard not good even for tests?
Hi,
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I have been playing with Beyma 8ag/n speakers on card baffles for some time. Although the baffles are not exactly ideal (they vibrate with the sound) I find the sound quite refreshing and open. Compared to my B&W DM601s, the Beyma's confortably win, even on these baffles. The problems arise on frequency extremes.
A sine wave of 15kHz is fine to my hears but at 17.5kHz there is no sound at all (at least I cant hear it). So I guess that a tweeter is missing here. As it is only above this high frequency, I really don't know what to put there.
Below 100 Hz the same thing hapens. I have to try a el-pipe-o style sub to check if it goes well here. Another option is to use a sub like NaO. To make thigs simpler, I am thinking of using a sonotube with around 60cm long and 30 cm diameter with a 12" driver.
Miguel
Edit: I guess that the 96dB of the Beyma's compared with the 88 dB sensitivity of the B&W's also play some role here.
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I have been playing with Beyma 8ag/n speakers on card baffles for some time. Although the baffles are not exactly ideal (they vibrate with the sound) I find the sound quite refreshing and open. Compared to my B&W DM601s, the Beyma's confortably win, even on these baffles. The problems arise on frequency extremes.
A sine wave of 15kHz is fine to my hears but at 17.5kHz there is no sound at all (at least I cant hear it). So I guess that a tweeter is missing here. As it is only above this high frequency, I really don't know what to put there.
Below 100 Hz the same thing hapens. I have to try a el-pipe-o style sub to check if it goes well here. Another option is to use a sub like NaO. To make thigs simpler, I am thinking of using a sonotube with around 60cm long and 30 cm diameter with a 12" driver.
Miguel
Edit: I guess that the 96dB of the Beyma's compared with the 88 dB sensitivity of the B&W's also play some role here.
Mine is very much in the beginning stages but consists of some vintage 8" Corals and tweeters mounted coaxially. Since taking these pictures I've added more frame damping and upped the XO point. Not bad but I seem to be getting some resonance from the plywood baffle. Something thicker/stiffer would help I'm sure. Just thought I'd share.
http://www.alegriaaudio.com/coral_open_baffle_project.htm
http://www.alegriaaudio.com/coral_open_baffle_project.htm
I've just built a pair of quick'n'dirty OBs using a pair of 11.5"x48'x.75" precut raw MDF shelves, the 8" drivers out of my old pair of Yamaha NS-6390s (rated down to 45hz by Yamaha, though I can't get an identity for them by the limited markings on the back), a pair of BG Neo3 PDR with back cup (which had made a phenomenal upgrade to the 4" mid and dome tweeter the NS-6390s came with) crossed over at 2500hz using the hardware the Yammies came with (cheap cap high pass only with the 8"ers running full range). The drivers are mounted at ear level, basically as high in the baffle as possible.
Now I know, the baffle width here is probably way too narrow, but they sound really good. Better, in fact than the same drivers in the relatively large, sealed bookshelf boxes they had been in previously, though the bass response is a bit weaker (fine for maybe 70% of the music I have and maybe 50% of the DVDs I have, but that still leaves alot of room for improvement). All this for $5 worth of MDF, $15 worth of hardware to make the MDF stand up, and a little elbow grease. The elbow grease is a renewable resource, and the MDF apparently grows on trees, so I'm all up for tweaking and improving this design.
The best looking (I've been using the XLS sheet gotten from KYW's website some time ago) simple drop in replacement for the 8" Yammie driver is the Goldwood GW-8028 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-355). It shows an f3 point of about 32Hz (which is actually better than the crappy little 8" sub I've got on hand), but is down about 11dB at 20Hz. It also only shows about a 1dB rise centered around 55Hz or so, so its pretty flat. I know this is just an approximate simulation under ideal conditions not counting the room (which sucks in my case, so I'm not even going to think about that now), but this isn't bad at all for a $35 (for a pair) upgrade, I'm seriously thinking about it. Anyone have any experience with these drivers or have any more expert opinion to offer given their specs?
Now, the best modelling OB driver I've found is the Morel MW-1075 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-045) which plots out flat and smooth with and f3 of about 28Hz and is only down about 6.25dB at 20Hz. A couple problems here . . . first, and least importantly, they are 10" drivers, requiring me to purchase more MDF and apply more elbow grease to make new baffles to fit them. Secondly, they would cost me over $230 shipped for a pair (at which point I would have to seriously reconsider my priorities). Those are probably out of consideration for me at this point, but I'd love to hear what anyone thinks or knows (or thinks they know) regarding these in an OB configuration.
As a sort of compromise choice I've found the Goldwood GW-1038 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-360). It hits f3 at about 26Hz and is down about 7.5dB at 20Hz with a nearly 2db peak around 40Hz. These are 10" drivers, too, and would run about $53 for a pair, so doable. They may be a bit less smooth than the 8" Goldwoods, but have even more bass extension. Any thoughts here?
And the last thing is concerning my use of the Neo3s as mid/tweeter. I was wondering if the basic model Neo3 (non PDR with no back cup) would be an appropriate choice here (since that's the version thats on sale now, kinda like the PDR back cup ones were when I picked them up). If I were to pick up replacements for the 8" Yammie drivers, I might also pick up more Neo3s of some flavor and just build another pair of OBs instead of replacing the ones I already have (what I've got would probably be overkill for surround duty so why the heck not use them there if I have the opportunity?) Any thoughts here?
Thanks,
Kensai
Now I know, the baffle width here is probably way too narrow, but they sound really good. Better, in fact than the same drivers in the relatively large, sealed bookshelf boxes they had been in previously, though the bass response is a bit weaker (fine for maybe 70% of the music I have and maybe 50% of the DVDs I have, but that still leaves alot of room for improvement). All this for $5 worth of MDF, $15 worth of hardware to make the MDF stand up, and a little elbow grease. The elbow grease is a renewable resource, and the MDF apparently grows on trees, so I'm all up for tweaking and improving this design.
The best looking (I've been using the XLS sheet gotten from KYW's website some time ago) simple drop in replacement for the 8" Yammie driver is the Goldwood GW-8028 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-355). It shows an f3 point of about 32Hz (which is actually better than the crappy little 8" sub I've got on hand), but is down about 11dB at 20Hz. It also only shows about a 1dB rise centered around 55Hz or so, so its pretty flat. I know this is just an approximate simulation under ideal conditions not counting the room (which sucks in my case, so I'm not even going to think about that now), but this isn't bad at all for a $35 (for a pair) upgrade, I'm seriously thinking about it. Anyone have any experience with these drivers or have any more expert opinion to offer given their specs?
Now, the best modelling OB driver I've found is the Morel MW-1075 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-045) which plots out flat and smooth with and f3 of about 28Hz and is only down about 6.25dB at 20Hz. A couple problems here . . . first, and least importantly, they are 10" drivers, requiring me to purchase more MDF and apply more elbow grease to make new baffles to fit them. Secondly, they would cost me over $230 shipped for a pair (at which point I would have to seriously reconsider my priorities). Those are probably out of consideration for me at this point, but I'd love to hear what anyone thinks or knows (or thinks they know) regarding these in an OB configuration.
As a sort of compromise choice I've found the Goldwood GW-1038 (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-360). It hits f3 at about 26Hz and is down about 7.5dB at 20Hz with a nearly 2db peak around 40Hz. These are 10" drivers, too, and would run about $53 for a pair, so doable. They may be a bit less smooth than the 8" Goldwoods, but have even more bass extension. Any thoughts here?
And the last thing is concerning my use of the Neo3s as mid/tweeter. I was wondering if the basic model Neo3 (non PDR with no back cup) would be an appropriate choice here (since that's the version thats on sale now, kinda like the PDR back cup ones were when I picked them up). If I were to pick up replacements for the 8" Yammie drivers, I might also pick up more Neo3s of some flavor and just build another pair of OBs instead of replacing the ones I already have (what I've got would probably be overkill for surround duty so why the heck not use them there if I have the opportunity?) Any thoughts here?
Thanks,
Kensai
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