Altec 406 - 8Y

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OK, finally! Since size isn't an issue and your amp's 0.8 ohms output impedance + 0.5 ohms for wiring, etc., bumped Qts up an audible amount I increased it bit [~7.6 ft^3 gross] to get my preferred 30" wide [o.d.] baffle:

H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot

Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.

All dims inside [i.d.].

Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].

Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf

Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.

GM
 
OK, finally! Since size isn't an issue and your amp's 0.8 ohms output impedance + 0.5 ohms for wiring, etc., bumped Qts up an audible amount I increased it bit [~7.6 ft^3 gross] to get my preferred 30" wide [o.d.] baffle:

H = 58.5"
W = 28.5"
D = 7.875"
driver offset = 24.56" [~34.69" from floor]
vent offset = 49.125"
vent = 4" dia. x 0.75" hole or 1.75" x 7.187" slot

Recommend vertically offsetting the driver, vent at some acoustic or golden ratio to average out the baffle's width eigenmodes a bit, which will require mirror image baffles.

All dims inside [i.d.].

Recommend 18-19 mm BB, apple, bamboo, marine grade plywood or similar high MOE panel [> ~1.8 mil psi].

Any bracing needs to minimize vertical air restriction, so ideally tie all six sides together and brace/support the woofer. Personally just use board scraps and/or cheap closet rod dowels to tie it all together with one acting as the driver brace/support to mimic this or similar, though all the holes can be just a few huge freeform cutouts [pg. 4]: http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/pensils/Pensil-Series-set-100711.pdf

Damp one side [one closest to driver if offset], top, back with 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC703] or similar at least down to just above the vent to start.

GM

Hello GM.

Apologies for being offline for the past month and not able to thank you in a timely manner.

I do have a few questions:
This is a bass reflex, correct? Not a ML-TL?
(I believe you had recommended the ML-TL for the 406 driver.)

Also, is the speaker depth spec of 7.875" correct? Tall, wide and thin?

Thanks,
Bobo
 
Greets!

You're welcome! No biggie, life happens. :eek:

With it's very high aspect ratio, definitely a MLTL.

Correct, a ~30" wide baffle usually negates the need for power robbing baffle step compensation [BSC].

GM
 
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