While im waiting for new drivers to arrive Im trying to plan ahead. I could use some help with setting it up correctly. I will be running actively for the most part. I use a tube amp for the mids and t amps for everything else.I have the mini dsp two way so I'm trying to figure out the best way to configure everything.
Drivers are...
2x per side. Tang Band W4-1337SDF 4" Titanium Full Range Speaker | 264-916
1 per side. Fountek NeoCD3.5H Ribbon Tweeter | 296-703.
L
Plus 2 x per side. Eminence Alpha-15A 15" Driver | 290-407
I was thinking i would run the subs active crossed with the mids and tweeters with a passive FO filter @ around 8k.
I can eq the rise in response @ 10k on the mids. and possibly an impiedance network to make them an easier load for my SET amp.
Am I even close??
Drivers are...
2x per side. Tang Band W4-1337SDF 4" Titanium Full Range Speaker | 264-916
1 per side. Fountek NeoCD3.5H Ribbon Tweeter | 296-703.
L
Plus 2 x per side. Eminence Alpha-15A 15" Driver | 290-407
I was thinking i would run the subs active crossed with the mids and tweeters with a passive FO filter @ around 8k.
I can eq the rise in response @ 10k on the mids. and possibly an impiedance network to make them an easier load for my SET amp.
Am I even close??
At 8K crossover point will force the driver spacing incredibly short. These are the same with Neo3.5's w/ Horn? The horns height interferes with this alignment. Todo properly we must lower the crossover point down to match the falling directivity of the 1337, around 3.7k or there abouts. A good passive between the 1337 and the Neo3.5 would be my choice. Low pass channel to woofer then high pass to the MTM's. Having extensively modeled this driver a crossover point of 350 and above is required due to the Xmax limitation. atm I'd say 350Hz active and 3.7k passive
Thank you. I am thinking mtm but it doesnt have to be. Not sure if it matters.
I have to keep cost down at this point having just laid out a lot for mid/tweets as well as the new wood i will need and the new router I bought to cut the holes..lol. I will likely try your suggestions for crossover points actively
and "Greebster"'s idea of cheaper xovers for the subs.
What about the impedance of the mids. Do I need anything to make it more set friendly?
The passive to the sub version may not work due to the lag of the 2x4. Tho if we go passive to the 1337 that would work fine. Another active cross placed inline after the MiniDSP2x4 also works. This is the way I'm doing it, til I get another in a couple of months or perhaps a MiniSharc with some additional D/A's for output.
Actually after thinking on it further,I think I may bite the bullet and order one more 2x4 mini dsp kit. I have enough t amps to run a separate unit for each of the four bass drivers as well as another for the tweeters. That way I have the freedom to eq the bass response for the room as well as set up the correct xover points for the mid/top and experiment a bit too see where they sound best.
Cheaper now too with the new lower price. ($80 vs $100)I could never go back to full passive again. With the higher cost of inductors etc it just no longer makes a lot of sense if there is going to be a lot of trial and error involved. A few inexpensive t amps work great for bass and tweeters. Even for mids if you enjoy their sound.I dont have the knowledge to put together a proper passive filter and get it right first try.
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