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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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Hi all,
this is my first post, after 14 days searched and compared the best speaker enclosure in the Web, finally I choose open baffle system for my first project, you all know why i choose this type! My goal is: make open baffle system simple and small enough to produce sound from Fs=90Hz above and subwoofer to handle below 90Hz. My plan is using Fostex allrange driver FE 164 with baffle size: 40x40cm. I run the simulation using xbaffle.xls written by Thorsten Loesch and the result is: -6dB at 200Hz. To flatten FR, is it right using passive filter with 6 dB step reduction for freq. above 200Hz? as John L. Murphy said? http://www.trueaudio.com/st_diff1.htm How about folded baffle, like this: \_/ seeing from top, with 15cm for front baffle and 15cm for both folded wing with 135degrees angle? Is it helping to shift down -6dB from 200Hz? is there any formula to calculate folded baffle? I open for your suggestions to make the best of it. Thank's guys. Gunawan. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: iowa
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Firstly I assume the baffle is 2' off of ground and 2' from side wall and 5' from front wall.
Doing this will lessen the boosting above 100-200 range, making for slightly deeper response (using program). (100-150hz closer to average output) Using the baffle step filter changes the qes of the driver (and thusly the qts)........ because at low frequencies the inductor is in series with the driver......... To have a baffle correct that low, the inductor may be 3 or 4mH, these have > .7 dcr (adding a .7 ohm in series or more)................ Which raises the q......... You can find the formulas online (I'm not at work and won't have them for a while) I've not found much on baffle step on an open baffle, but I've found it is less than a normal baffle........... Try and post results !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good luck !!!!!!!! |
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#3 | ||||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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Seconly, the FE164 is not suited to open baffle operation nor is the current replacement FE 166 (the 164 is discontinued). The FE164 has a Qt of around 0.35, which means that teh driver is suited to neither open or infinite baffles, if flat response is desired. Quote:
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Sayonara |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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Hi,
thanks for your quick response. Norman, you said 5' from front wall or back wall? actually 5' from back wall is to far for my room setup, I only get 2' max. What search words should I try in Google to find the formulas you mention? KYW, to raise Qt, somewhere in this forum you said: "Drive it from a high source impedance. The easiest is to just use a resistor, but that looses a lot of power. The smarter way is to build an amplifier with a controllable positive output impedance , something that is laughably simple." Can you show some schematic diagram how to do "a controllable positive output impedance"? Is it possible to use 4 Ohms dirver with 8 Ohms amplifier to raise Qt? You said that if I use folded baffle with total width 45cm, this will have the same FR as 20cm wide straight baffle? So additional 25cm wide has no effect? I will do this project ASAP (time constraint), but in the mean time would you mind if I ask some more question? How about using 15cm front baffle with 30cm each folded wing at 90degrees angle, so the total width is 75cm, is this will get some FR change? I ask this question is to keep the baffle as small as possible from front view. If I make like this (top view) _|_|_ it's like 90degrees folded baffle with extended front baffle at both side, is this will extend the lower part of FR? Diatone 6.5" or the Pioneer PM-16, do you use this driver yourself? If any of you use this driver with great result, please let me know. Thank you. |
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#5 | |||||||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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I have sicne fully understood how Dipoles (open baffles) interact with the room and will update this section if and when I find time. Quote:
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For this effect to become relevant you need a fairly long Transmission line or rather a fairly deep box (still open back), which brings it's own problems with it. An interesting (and working) application of a folded back baffle is the Rondo from Auditorium 23 in Germany and the Shindo and Auris speakers which use the same kind of design principle. Quote:
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The Pioneers are available from here: http://www.eifl.co.jp/index/export/pe16m.html More details on this driver: http://audionautes.com/Altriprodotti...datape-16m.htm From Eifl for 250 Bux per pair, that said, if it was my money I'd go Supravox and pay the balance. Sayonara |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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Hi KYW,
wow, thank's for the reply, I should chewed all this information not to fast to prevent chocking. "With most amplifiers the use of a 4 Ohm driver with an amplifier rated for 4 ohm load will not raise the Qt." How about: 4 Ohms driver with amplifier rated for 8 Ohms? So with folded baffle, the result is more complicated and unpredictable? Like my first OB speaker test below: I use Kenwood 5" driver taken from my existing system with fs=74Hz and Qts=0,41. I made 90degrees folded baffle with front baffle wide=15cm, folded wing=25cm each, baffle high=60cm. It placed at 100cm measured from driver centerline to the floor, 50cm from side wall and 60cm from back wall. No eq. on preamp and amplifier. Quick hearing result from 1m distance is like this: begin hear sin wave sound at 65Hz and raised to half loud at 78Hz then rolled down and barely hear at 140Hz then raised again and at 250Hz full loud - flat - up to 10KHz and rolled down again and no sound at 16KHz. It's different from your xlbaffle.xls spreadsheet result. There was a notch at 140Hz, is this only happen on folded OB or normal for all type of OB? Any suggestion to improve this, please? Thank you. |
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#7 | ||||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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I suspect the 65 & 78 Hz may very well be room modes (check dimensions). Using your parameters I agree with around 250Hz as the point where the speaker works properly, below this it rolls off and any output below around 100Hz would be much shelved down (the "wings" do provide some extension to the LF), possibly enough to partially energise room modes. Quote:
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Sayonara |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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So why not fold the side panels back when not playing and bring them out when playing? You don't really lose anything with this design, and you can play with the fold angles as much as you wish. You can also make the folding panels with clear plastic (or tempered glass) to reduce the visual space impact. Sheldon |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
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I have done a quite similar folded baffle for myself: 10 cm frontbaffle and 22 cm for each folded wing (45° back). I believe the effective width is much more than the 40 cm projected width, as seen on axis. Are you aware of www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers.htm#L and the discussions with John Kreskovsky on the madisound forum about his U-frame dipoles? I´m with you that we can´t simply add the length of the folded back baffles to the baffle width, but the delay caused by the "depth" of the baffle is something that must be accounted for. Anyhow, I´m looking forward to your new evolution step of the dipole spreadsheet. Rudolf
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www.dipolplus.de |
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#10 | ||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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Sayonara |
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