Hi Greebster,
This was my first idea to but this gap it is not present in mid's measurement so I'm not so sure...
The speaker it is used together with a 10 bands EQ so there are room for improvement from EQ. In fact the peak at 90Hz is more disturbing because the 10 bands EQ do not have adjustment at this frequency.
The mid measurement... and the full speaker (measurement at 3m and both speakers). The exact SPL level it is only "relative", the level it is not very well calibrated.
This was my first idea to but this gap it is not present in mid's measurement so I'm not so sure...
The speaker it is used together with a 10 bands EQ so there are room for improvement from EQ. In fact the peak at 90Hz is more disturbing because the 10 bands EQ do not have adjustment at this frequency.
The mid measurement... and the full speaker (measurement at 3m and both speakers). The exact SPL level it is only "relative", the level it is not very well calibrated.
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This cannot be EQ'd out, must move speaker. Perhaps raising it a bit off the floor.
Floor bounce can also cause what we are seeing. Floor/Ceiling Reflection Calculator a simple calculator to help you out with this one.
Floor bounce can also cause what we are seeing. Floor/Ceiling Reflection Calculator a simple calculator to help you out with this one.
What Greebster says is right.
I would have criticized
the "tower" style for bringing in some issues as the stationaries that often are favorished by the form and distance.
SO, for me that measure represents nothing but a boomy addiction of anything above 90 dB -that's all I may know
Multiplied X 2 since there's a double contribution by the two mid-wf's
I would open the back of the boxes and maybe play with the Eq, then report !
I would have criticized
the "tower" style for bringing in some issues as the stationaries that often are favorished by the form and distance.SO, for me that measure represents nothing but a boomy addiction of anything above 90 dB -that's all I may know
Multiplied X 2 since there's a double contribution by the two mid-wf's
I would open the back of the boxes and maybe play with the Eq, then report !
Having the front baffle extend all the way to the floor also exacerbates the null.
2.5way towers can remedy this issue by placing the second helper woofer closer to the floor. Normally this distance between them is ¼ wavelength at the crossover point (200-500Hz typical). This creates a second null, but is much higher in frequency and normally occurs much higher in frequency than the helper woofer is, end result is no second null. The lower one fills in the null of the other and minimizes the effect. This is not the same as floor coupling (<3" to the floor), but can be used in conjunction for greatest extension.
2.5way towers can remedy this issue by placing the second helper woofer closer to the floor. Normally this distance between them is ¼ wavelength at the crossover point (200-500Hz typical). This creates a second null, but is much higher in frequency and normally occurs much higher in frequency than the helper woofer is, end result is no second null. The lower one fills in the null of the other and minimizes the effect. This is not the same as floor coupling (<3" to the floor), but can be used in conjunction for greatest extension.
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Indeed choosing a direction brings some restrictions when you ...
The two mid should cover the major freq extension , being placed on a narrow baffle. At this point frequently a D'Appolito occurs. The lateral woofer allows a different filter but it depends upon placement - if a reflective boundary is near-
So I was right when I complained about the capacitors in the HP section.
Those caps should transfer the sound and to limit the lows according to the impedance, which happens to be in the range of mid's Fs.
So for this kind of filter which crosses at 100/200 Hz a good capacitor might be better than 10 ( good ) caps. The midrange(s) operate in a closed box.
For their duty, they could be mounted in Open Box ( Baffle)...also in a open push-pull ( never seen ...maybe the Legacy Audio Whisper ??)
So, c'mon...it's just 3--4 drivers and having some fun
The two mid should cover the major freq extension , being placed on a narrow baffle. At this point frequently a D'Appolito occurs. The lateral woofer allows a different filter but it depends upon placement - if a reflective boundary is near-
So I was right when I complained about the capacitors in the HP section.
Those caps should transfer the sound and to limit the lows according to the impedance, which happens to be in the range of mid's Fs.
So for this kind of filter which crosses at 100/200 Hz a good capacitor might be better than 10 ( good ) caps. The midrange(s) operate in a closed box.
For their duty, they could be mounted in Open Box ( Baffle)...also in a open push-pull ( never seen ...maybe the Legacy Audio Whisper ??
)So, c'mon...it's just 3--4 drivers and having some fun
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I can not disagree in terms of speakers and their problems because I'm beginner in this area, but regarding electronic components I have a lot of experience.
I'm not a sympathizer of so called "audiophile" components. I do not want to enter in polemics but I'm not agree with your idea that a single capacitor instead of a combination will change the sound or an audiophile will sound better comparing with a high quality industrial ones.
I'm not a sympathizer of so called "audiophile" components. I do not want to enter in polemics but I'm not agree with your idea that a single capacitor instead of a combination will change the sound or an audiophile will sound better comparing with a high quality industrial ones.
I used this SW an I do not find any suitable combination to have a dip around 150 Hz.....
I think that it is not room related....
I think that it is not room related....
That is only one small facet of the whole room picture. The height, width and length along with what the walls, floors, windows, doors et al are composed of and or covered with. Using REW's room simulator works much better, but even it has huge limitations so only a rough approximation can be assessed.
Hello all,
Because I am not satisfied with the sound got even after other filters changes, I want to modify the speakers. But first I want to change (parameters) of the speakers without replacing them.
I want a solution to harden the spider at least 2-3 times. For the begining I will modify only mid speakers.
What is the best way to start?
Thank you!
Because I am not satisfied with the sound got even after other filters changes, I want to modify the speakers. But first I want to change (parameters) of the speakers without replacing them.
I want a solution to harden the spider at least 2-3 times. For the begining I will modify only mid speakers.
What is the best way to start?
Thank you!
SUPERGLUE
Seriously tho, do you have the means to measure that 2-3times additional stiffness? Have a clue as to what it will happen if you do? What if there is too much mass, or simply raises Fs, creates a nasty peak in the response, lowers excursion, reduces efficiency and or grossly limits bandwidth???
Study what is necessary to design a speaker driver. This will add a few more years after learning to designing speakers properly. Ehh another decade or so. In about the time required to get a Ph.D at a minimum.
For sure if my target if to become a "guru" in speakers, but no, my target is only to have a good speaker with less money for listening music.
this is the main reasone. I want to lower excursion, to limit low frequency response and to narrow the band width.
The best way is simply to change it but it is a special design with truncated basket and I do not have to many options, maybe LA6-CBMR from Eminence, but 4 of this are out of my buget. Another option is simply to change the full speakers but I want large bass and a speaker with narrow front (wife problem, I think you understood).
I'm thinking that will made the spider breakable so.....Maybe 2-3 times is to much but for sure I want to harden the spider. I made this to a diferent speakers years ago adding a second spider (was easy available the exact same speader) and the results was OK. Now I do not have acces to buy the exact spider to double it.SUPERGLUE
Suport offerd dy sesebe
First of all I would like to say THANK YOU!!! for you support Sesebe.
With a lot of help from Sesebe I have finally made'it:
3 way speaker system using:
Woofer ALPINE SW 304 D 12'' @300W RMS
Midrange EMINENCE Beta 8A @225W RMS
Tweeter 2xSAL DTF12 @100W
3 way crossower network
I will let the pictures tell you everything else
First of all I would like to say THANK YOU!!! for you support Sesebe.
With a lot of help from Sesebe I have finally made'it:
3 way speaker system using:
Woofer ALPINE SW 304 D 12'' @300W RMS
Midrange EMINENCE Beta 8A @225W RMS
Tweeter 2xSAL DTF12 @100W
3 way crossower network
I will let the pictures tell you everything else
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