EDIT: Check below posts for more info on the drivers i have and a better explanation of my problem(s).
First of all thank you for checking my thread!
I'm having trouble finding the correct sub forum to post so i thought the lounge would probably be the best place to ask sorry if i messed up i just wanted someone to point me to the right direction before i start posting in the wrong sub forums.
So i'm kinda new to DIY and i wanted to ask about maybe building some enclosure for some drivers i have recently found and i would love to maybe get some tips on what kind of set up i should use them maybe talk about crossover frequencies and help me find some specs on some of the drivers.
I almost forgot to mention that while i'm new to audio DIY i've done other projects, i know how to solder, cut wood and i've done a bit of research on enclosures (vents, materia, volume etc.) and i could probably build a crossover to suit my needs although i still don't know what those are and thats why i'm here!
Thanks for reading.
First of all thank you for checking my thread!
I'm having trouble finding the correct sub forum to post so i thought the lounge would probably be the best place to ask sorry if i messed up i just wanted someone to point me to the right direction before i start posting in the wrong sub forums.
So i'm kinda new to DIY and i wanted to ask about maybe building some enclosure for some drivers i have recently found and i would love to maybe get some tips on what kind of set up i should use them maybe talk about crossover frequencies and help me find some specs on some of the drivers.
I almost forgot to mention that while i'm new to audio DIY i've done other projects, i know how to solder, cut wood and i've done a bit of research on enclosures (vents, materia, volume etc.) and i could probably build a crossover to suit my needs although i still don't know what those are and thats why i'm here!
Thanks for reading.
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I'm no expert on speaker design but I can start the ball rolling.
Easy bit first. The crossover is a small passive network using resistors, capacitors and inductors that "splits" the input signal into frequency bands suited to each driver. For example a woofer can't reproduce hf and so we don't even attempt to feed it such. A tweeter would be burned out by large high amplitude lower frequencies and so again we would filter those out.
You need to understand (as in look up and research) how capacitors and inductors behave.
Mega oversimplification... caps pass the hf and inductors filter out the hf
So a crossover is a combination of all these components but it should be designed to suit the drivers.
So that is what we need to know... what are the drivers you have ?
Hopefully those experienced in speaker design can help further
Easy bit first. The crossover is a small passive network using resistors, capacitors and inductors that "splits" the input signal into frequency bands suited to each driver. For example a woofer can't reproduce hf and so we don't even attempt to feed it such. A tweeter would be burned out by large high amplitude lower frequencies and so again we would filter those out.
You need to understand (as in look up and research) how capacitors and inductors behave.
Mega oversimplification... caps pass the hf and inductors filter out the hf
So a crossover is a combination of all these components but it should be designed to suit the drivers.
So that is what we need to know... what are the drivers you have ?
Hopefully those experienced in speaker design can help further
Mooly thank you for taking the time and explaining all that but i already knew those bits
What i have trouble with is figuring out is how to best use some components i have from old speakers my uncle had.
I have right now two of each
Dynavox 8" Dy 200 9A 8Ohm woofer (can't find specs sheet) Picture
Nokia tweeter made in Germany
Problem is i can't find the full names and specs for the tweeter and if i found the specification could i make a set of 2 way speakers with them? I feel like i don't have enough information on the drivers to do enclosure/crossover calculations.
What i have trouble with is figuring out is how to best use some components i have from old speakers my uncle had.
I have right now two of each
Dynavox 8" Dy 200 9A 8Ohm woofer (can't find specs sheet) Picture
Nokia tweeter made in Germany
Problem is i can't find the full names and specs for the tweeter and if i found the specification could i make a set of 2 way speakers with them? I feel like i don't have enough information on the drivers to do enclosure/crossover calculations.
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No problem
As I say, speaker and crossover design isn't my field of expertise at all so you'll have to let others help you on that.
It might be useful for you to show a picture of the drivers to help id them. If you did then its easy to attach them directly to the forum using the "go advanced" button.
As I say, speaker and crossover design isn't my field of expertise at all so you'll have to let others help you on that.
It might be useful for you to show a picture of the drivers to help id them. If you did then its easy to attach them directly to the forum using the "go advanced" button.
I have found two websites that have the woofer im talking about and the specifications do not exactly match.
Here are the specs as listen on both websites and on the back of the woofer i have itself.
Website 1 Greek
Nominal Diameter: 200mm (8")
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohm
Nominal Power: 100 watt
Resonance Frequency: 40 - 5000 Hz
Magnet Weight: 420 gr
Sensitivity @ 1w, 1m: 90 dB
Net weight: 1.35kgr
Website 2 German Ebay seller (sorry specs are in german)
Technische Daten:
Gummisicke
Polypropylen-Membrane
420g Magnet (90 x 45 x 15 mm)
Impedanz 8 Ohm
Resonanzfrequenz fo 50 Hz
Frequenzbereich Fo-18 khz
S.P.L. 88 dB
Leistung 100 Watt max.
Lochkreisausschnitt 185 mm
Einbautiefe ca. 92 mm
Mass für Befestigungslöcher 215 mm
Gewicht ca. 1,35 kg
On the back of the woofer
Nominal Power 100 Watt
Impedance 8Ohm
Resonance Frequency 40-5000Hz
sensitivity @ 1w,1m 90dB
I also found something info on the tweeter but info is still lacking. My tweeter has no numbers on it and the paper bit that had info is almost destroyed and the only i thing i can make out is "Nokia Audio Eletronics" "n Germany" However it looks exactly like this tweeter Nokia LPKH 90/19/135FTF/8
The dimension and weight match but that's all i can measure the rest of the specs of that tweeter on the website are
Tweeter Nokia 3 2/4" 100watt 8Ω , 2000-20000 Hz , 90dB eight 290gr
Here are the specs as listen on both websites and on the back of the woofer i have itself.
Website 1 Greek
Nominal Diameter: 200mm (8")
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohm
Nominal Power: 100 watt
Resonance Frequency: 40 - 5000 Hz
Magnet Weight: 420 gr
Sensitivity @ 1w, 1m: 90 dB
Net weight: 1.35kgr
Website 2 German Ebay seller (sorry specs are in german)
Technische Daten:
Gummisicke
Polypropylen-Membrane
420g Magnet (90 x 45 x 15 mm)
Impedanz 8 Ohm
Resonanzfrequenz fo 50 Hz
Frequenzbereich Fo-18 khz
S.P.L. 88 dB
Leistung 100 Watt max.
Lochkreisausschnitt 185 mm
Einbautiefe ca. 92 mm
Mass für Befestigungslöcher 215 mm
Gewicht ca. 1,35 kg
On the back of the woofer
Nominal Power 100 Watt
Impedance 8Ohm
Resonance Frequency 40-5000Hz
sensitivity @ 1w,1m 90dB
I also found something info on the tweeter but info is still lacking. My tweeter has no numbers on it and the paper bit that had info is almost destroyed and the only i thing i can make out is "Nokia Audio Eletronics" "n Germany" However it looks exactly like this tweeter Nokia LPKH 90/19/135FTF/8
The dimension and weight match but that's all i can measure the rest of the specs of that tweeter on the website are
Tweeter Nokia 3 2/4" 100watt 8Ω , 2000-20000 Hz , 90dB eight 290gr
Might have to measure the 8" woofer Snap.
But keep looking - found something on a 4ohm version:
DY-200-9A 4 Ohm, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM
But keep looking - found something on a 4ohm version:
DY-200-9A 4 Ohm, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM
Hey, i've measured the woofer and it matches the description on both websites.
By measure, that means measurement of the T/S parameters.
For a first build I recommend a sealed sub. This will teach you how to measure the driver and system. Using D'Apolitto's book, Measuring Loudspeakers, you learn what this is about. Then rebuild the same sub as a ported system and learn to tune a ported box. You will be starting to build up your kit. Knowledge, software, tools etc. Cost is not a problem as a $10 DIY mic, PC and a sound card can do 99% of what anyone needs if you learn how to use it. Books cost more than anything. ( read the thread on books for getting started)
Then you are ready to dive into a 2-way system. I usually recommend a kit first time out. One that is well documented so you can retrace the steps and decisions in design and so the forum can help you understand it.
For these first builds, don't worry about the results, only worry about the process. Use cheap parts. Speaker design and building is a very complicated engineering design discipline. One you can learn if you are willing to put in the effort. You will get fantastic help here, the more effort, the more help. We will gladly help if you ask " what do you think about my first box design? Here is how I did it" than " design me a box" as some have tried.
Thanks for that and all the help and i feel stupid for thinking he was asking for the woofers dimensions
Anyway, how can i calculate T/S parameters if i don't have full specs for the drivers? Is it possible and why the hell isn't there a document with the full specifications of the woofer i have
I was thinking of building a kit first but i have a lot of ply wood and i have already the woofers and tweeters laying around, basically i need a cabinet and crossovers also i don't expect to build something of amazing quality but my Logitech X540's are really bad.
Run the parameters with the 4ohm speaker for now in WinISD, better than guessing at box size.
Could be wrong the 8" speaker looks like a multi purpose speaker, probably used in PA system with a ceiling grill. Be warned, you could spend a lot of time on this project and end up with something not very good.
Check this out, might be the flag ship of the line, scroll down on right and check all of documentation e.g.
Dynavox LW8004PMR 8" Woofer 295-610
Could be wrong the 8" speaker looks like a multi purpose speaker, probably used in PA system with a ceiling grill. Be warned, you could spend a lot of time on this project and end up with something not very good.
Check this out, might be the flag ship of the line, scroll down on right and check all of documentation e.g.
Dynavox LW8004PMR 8" Woofer 295-610
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Thanks for the warning, appreciated!
The woofer i have is a Dynavox DY200 9A 8Ohm (screenshot of the actual woofer in 7th post i think) and unfortunately like you said it probably is a really cheap and bad woofer.
Dynavox-Audio this is the website of the company that makes the woofer i have although it's in german and i can't find the model i have.
You can see that the logo of this dynavox is different than the one on Parts Express.
Sounds like a knock off brand then, I saw some of the DY200's for $16.00. I don't see how they could be considered a HiFi mid/woofer.
At some point you would be better off using old boom or computer speakers, found at yard sales, etc.
Well what's your goal? Need to decide what you want to do and how much you can spend.
At some point you would be better off using old boom or computer speakers, found at yard sales, etc.
Well what's your goal? Need to decide what you want to do and how much you can spend.
My goal was basically to make a pair of 2 way speakers with the parts i already have before i move into more expensive equipement but i can't find the product specifications for the drivers.
Being inexperienced and new to this i'm not sure i should continue before i have the full specifications for the drivers, currently all the specs i have are Freq. Response
Ipmedance
power handling
Sensitivity
size of woofer
weight
and material
Is this enough info for me to continue? What about all the other specs like Resonant Freq, Vas, xmax etc.?
Are the sepcs i have gathered enough to move forward or should i just throw them away?
Also i forgot to add that the speakers would probably end up used for almost all kinds of music and movies, i don't have a huge budget i'm just a college student.
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Don't throw them away yet.
Here check this project: low cost, well rearguard, can find all the parts you need at PE.
Post 7 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/245498-i-need-some-advice.html
Would help if you mentioned your general location.
Here check this project: low cost, well rearguard, can find all the parts you need at PE.
Post 7 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/245498-i-need-some-advice.html
Would help if you mentioned your general location.
Manufactures specs are probably close enough for a sealed box. They can;t get away with the flat out lies they did 20 years ago, but some are still a bit optimistic. You need to learn how to do the impedance and acoustic measurements. The absolute bible for this is Joe D'Apollito's book Testing Loudspeakers. He shows you the old (hard) way, but you will understand what the measurements are. Kind of like learning to do long division before you use a calculator. Punching in numbers without understanding them is how you miss an English to Metric conversion and your probe misses Mars.
With a PC and sound card, many free software programs will allow you to measure the T/S parameters. I do it even the easier way using a WooferTester II test gig. It is very accurate. More than needed, but so easy it is silly. I love it. You can build your own microphone that is good enough for box tuning and crossover testing for about $10. See Linkwitz's WEB pages. Granted, I splurged on a calibrated mic and Fouscrite mic preamp, but I have been at this for 35 years and can spring for a few tools. A $10 multimeter from K-Mart is good enough. OK, so I have a Fluke. I was a lab rat for many years and quite like my expensive commercial equipment. .05% tolerance is not required. 1% is fine. Manufacturing tolerance, air density, humidity, voice coil temperature and other factors add up to many %, so real precision is not really needed. Your equipment need only be better than what you are measuring.
Get and read D'Apolitto. It will be the best $80 (US) bucks you ever spent. You may find one used cheaper. Go over to the thread in this forum on books. Much is available for free online.
For your first builds, any old speakers will do. It is the process that is important. I can't stress that enough. If you don;t learn to correctly measure your results, it is almost impossible to learn anything. Before we had all these slick measurement tools,. we would do some textpbbk perfect designs ( which sounded terrible) and then sit around for weeks every evening after work and twittle, guess, and make them sound less terrible. Not great, less terrible. Then came Mrs. T and S, followed by Bullock who made it understandable fur us mere mortals. Speaker design is now an engineering discipline you can learn. You will get to the finial place much quicker of sitting there for weeks after work twittling trying to make a very good speaker great. Quite an advance if I do say so myself.
With a PC and sound card, many free software programs will allow you to measure the T/S parameters. I do it even the easier way using a WooferTester II test gig. It is very accurate. More than needed, but so easy it is silly. I love it. You can build your own microphone that is good enough for box tuning and crossover testing for about $10. See Linkwitz's WEB pages. Granted, I splurged on a calibrated mic and Fouscrite mic preamp, but I have been at this for 35 years and can spring for a few tools. A $10 multimeter from K-Mart is good enough. OK, so I have a Fluke. I was a lab rat for many years and quite like my expensive commercial equipment. .05% tolerance is not required. 1% is fine. Manufacturing tolerance, air density, humidity, voice coil temperature and other factors add up to many %, so real precision is not really needed. Your equipment need only be better than what you are measuring.
Get and read D'Apolitto. It will be the best $80 (US) bucks you ever spent. You may find one used cheaper. Go over to the thread in this forum on books. Much is available for free online.
For your first builds, any old speakers will do. It is the process that is important. I can't stress that enough. If you don;t learn to correctly measure your results, it is almost impossible to learn anything. Before we had all these slick measurement tools,. we would do some textpbbk perfect designs ( which sounded terrible) and then sit around for weeks every evening after work and twittle, guess, and make them sound less terrible. Not great, less terrible. Then came Mrs. T and S, followed by Bullock who made it understandable fur us mere mortals. Speaker design is now an engineering discipline you can learn. You will get to the finial place much quicker of sitting there for weeks after work twittling trying to make a very good speaker great. Quite an advance if I do say so myself.
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