There comes a point where you just need to "back yourself in" and go for it.
Sounds rough and ready? I think not...
I see a couple of distinct groups of people here:
- the "get in and do it"
- the "model and worry about it" types
Each has its place. But in the end of the day for things like binding posts, unless you are actually cross eyed or drunk, you will be fine. Just get them in the right spot!!!
If you are not confident, try on a few bits of offcut wood. Once you have convinced yourself that you are actually NOT cross-eyed go for it. If on the other hand you do have a problem, well....
Sounds rough and ready? I think not...
I see a couple of distinct groups of people here:
- the "get in and do it"
- the "model and worry about it" types
Each has its place. But in the end of the day for things like binding posts, unless you are actually cross eyed or drunk, you will be fine. Just get them in the right spot!!!
If you are not confident, try on a few bits of offcut wood. Once you have convinced yourself that you are actually NOT cross-eyed go for it. If on the other hand you do have a problem, well....
This is the one - something like this has limitations:
http://www.amazon.com/General-36-37...F8&qid=1381493482&sr=1-4&keywords=drill+guide
This would work better than above:Home - Portable Drill Guide by Big Gator Tools Drill Straight - Every Time!
Did you Google Barny?
http://www.amazon.com/General-36-37...F8&qid=1381493482&sr=1-4&keywords=drill+guide
This would work better than above:Home - Portable Drill Guide by Big Gator Tools Drill Straight - Every Time!
Did you Google Barny?
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Yes, I would drill it from one side then move around to the other and drill again, you're bound to have it straight enough for binding posts.
I found a drill with one of those mounted on it at a second hand store a few years ago. Never knew its name, but I've used it a lot of times whenever a really straight hole or tight tolerance was required, especially through thick parts.
I agree with several others -- for binding posts, free-hand usually is adequate.
It depends on whether you need a long term precision tool, or if you simply need something in the moment.
If you have access to a Drill Press, the glue a coupe of blocks of wood together, and using the same drill bit, drill a hole in them. That will serve as a short term guide to drilling straight holes.
If you have a bench top drill press, then here is something we used to do when drilling laminated construction beams. We drilled a large hole in the base of the Bench Top Drill Press, that way we could drill down through the base. We would lift the Bench Drill onto the beam, and that would allow us to drill straight down through the beam.
If you have a light duty Bench Drill, this small modification to the base can make for easy drilling. Though you want to be very careful to not let the base scratch what ever it is you are drilling. Perhaps setting down a 1/8th inch thick MDF or Hard Board/Peg Board to protect the surface, and drilling down through that.
The Tools, the drill extensions linked to by others, would probably work fine. We are not drilling into an engine block, but rather MDF or wood.
Too keep the hole clean and prevent break out where the drill bit exists. One option is to drill a very small hole first. Then with the necessary size, drill down about half way, then finish the hole from the other side, to keep the hole clean on both sides.
As has been pointed out by others, it is becoming more common for drills to have a couple of Bubble Levels built into them. One so you can drill horizontally, and another on the end, so you can drill a straight down vertical hole.
Again, the simplest and cheapest, assuming you have access to a drill press, is to drill through a scrap block of wood, and use that as your guide for drilling free-hand. It might be best to drill those pilot hole one drill bit large than the drill you intend to use. Otherwise the fit might be a little tight.
Any solution is in proportion to the ingenuity of the problem solver.
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/bluewizard
If you have access to a Drill Press, the glue a coupe of blocks of wood together, and using the same drill bit, drill a hole in them. That will serve as a short term guide to drilling straight holes.
If you have a bench top drill press, then here is something we used to do when drilling laminated construction beams. We drilled a large hole in the base of the Bench Top Drill Press, that way we could drill down through the base. We would lift the Bench Drill onto the beam, and that would allow us to drill straight down through the beam.
If you have a light duty Bench Drill, this small modification to the base can make for easy drilling. Though you want to be very careful to not let the base scratch what ever it is you are drilling. Perhaps setting down a 1/8th inch thick MDF or Hard Board/Peg Board to protect the surface, and drilling down through that.
The Tools, the drill extensions linked to by others, would probably work fine. We are not drilling into an engine block, but rather MDF or wood.
Too keep the hole clean and prevent break out where the drill bit exists. One option is to drill a very small hole first. Then with the necessary size, drill down about half way, then finish the hole from the other side, to keep the hole clean on both sides.
As has been pointed out by others, it is becoming more common for drills to have a couple of Bubble Levels built into them. One so you can drill horizontally, and another on the end, so you can drill a straight down vertical hole.
Again, the simplest and cheapest, assuming you have access to a drill press, is to drill through a scrap block of wood, and use that as your guide for drilling free-hand. It might be best to drill those pilot hole one drill bit large than the drill you intend to use. Otherwise the fit might be a little tight.
Any solution is in proportion to the ingenuity of the problem solver.
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/bluewizard
Never tried this but I'd bet that if you drilled through a sheet of aluminum foil you could get it bang on. When we used hand saw more in the trade years ago .. we kept the saw blade polished. If you adjusted the reflection in the blade to that of the board you were cutting, so the reflection is a continuation of the board (a straight line), the cut was always square. Stands to reason that a drill bit reflection in the foil would also serve as a guide. Angle the drill so the bit is a straight continuous line through the foils reflection.
This is all you need. No need to over-complicate things. How to Drill a Straight Hole (Without a Drill Press) - Bob's Blogs
Okay but, I think this was the best, low cost, answer.
I never had problem with reg. speaker screws, just angle them back a few degrees, start off small and move up to a larger size - if needed some day.
I never had problem with reg. speaker screws, just angle them back a few degrees, start off small and move up to a larger size - if needed some day.
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A Drilling Jig ...
... is what you want. Here is one:
DJ-1 Drilling Jig from Bridge City Tool Works - YouTube
Regards,
WHG
... is what you want. Here is one:
DJ-1 Drilling Jig from Bridge City Tool Works - YouTube
Regards,
WHG
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