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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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i think the title speaks for itself, i cant for the life of me work out how to make this tweeter flush accurately, it is a a rectangle with slight rounds on the sides, there is a picture of it and diagram here
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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There are two alternatives (3):
1) a drop router !!!!! Tool-Time !!!!! look it up on the internet. 2) use an extra layer of ply on your baffle with the cutout. 3) not recommended - the old fashioned way - ask your Dad. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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Would there be a reason to not use diffraction rings as long as the baffle is wide enough?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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a) What on earth is a diffraction ring?
b) Dad is a woodwork teacher and an amatuer builder/carpenter c) I think that i will use a 3mm piece of MDF over the top with its own cutout. d) how do i clean up the edge of the cutout to fit the tweeter perfectly cos i know a iant that great on the jigsaw and plus hand guided tools are never as accurate as i want this to me. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Peterborough, Ontario
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I used a dremel tool with a router tip on my set (not the same tweeter, but odd shape). It came out looking like crap. Sorry this probably wasn't the best response but yeah I agree with you, hand tools isn't the way to go (maybe if you have TONS of patience.. I don't).
Pete |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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i have access to a router with many bits, ill try it a number of times and see how i go, i have plenty of scrap, but does anyone know how to patch a mistake?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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I'd hesitate to do something like that too which is why I suggested diffraction rings, unless you know someone with the right skill and tools. It's simply a series of rings increasing in diameter until the desired thickness is acheived. Transition from the faceplate to the baffle should be kept to 10 degrees or less. You can make them from posterboard or other similar material. I made some using felt although the thickness was not near what you're dealing with.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Aberdeen, SD
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I'd say a scroll saw to make the initial cut with a couple of make shift fences for the straight sections, followed with a router to cut out the section to make it mount flush. Other then that a curved chisel and patience. I do mortises by hand occasionally, it's not that hard. Just make sure you have a very sharp good chisel, not a $2.99 walmart special.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Calgary
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You need to get a bushing kit for your router in order to cut templates. Something as shown here.
It'll be a perfect fit. http://www.newwoodworker.com/guidebush.html Brendon |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Calgary
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That the dome will likely stick up above the faceplate. This would present a problem! Another technique would be to use the circular base of the router to cut a larger template. You could use a 1/2" straight cutter, and then trace the big frame using the template and the base with a 1/4" cutter. This way you trace the edge of the tweet and don't have the router going over top...
Brendon |
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