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I am using the Accuton C158 8 085 midrange.
When I was listening to the 2-way section, I fell in love with the openness of the sound. When I added the capacitor for the high pass, something happened. That cleanliness, or openness of the sound was subdued. I have on hand Duelund CAST PIO's, Duelund VSF's, Mundorf Silver/gold/ oil, and even more.
It didn't matter which cap I introduced, or which combination of caps, that sound which I loved was gone.
Adding the notch may be the wrong way of doing it, but it sounded better to my ears.
I have no empirical data, just the smile on my face.
I am using the Accuton C158 8 085 midrange.
When I was listening to the 2-way section, I fell in love with the openness of the sound. When I added the capacitor for the high pass, something happened. That cleanliness, or openness of the sound was subdued. I have on hand Duelund CAST PIO's, Duelund VSF's, Mundorf Silver/gold/ oil, and even more.
It didn't matter which cap I introduced, or which combination of caps, that sound which I loved was gone.
Adding the notch may be the wrong way of doing it, but it sounded better to my ears.
I have no empirical data, just the smile on my face.
Tinitus, you have hit the nail on the head. Yes, the side firing woofers are my last obstacle.
The natural rolloff of the midrange, coupled with the high pass notch, gives me a steep drop starting at 120Hz.
My testing now involves inverting the signal from the woofers, and adjusting delay. This is proving to be the longest to solve problem, but the DSP helps.
In the future I might try facing the woofers forward, though this will make for a very wide speaker.
The natural rolloff of the midrange, coupled with the high pass notch, gives me a steep drop starting at 120Hz.
My testing now involves inverting the signal from the woofers, and adjusting delay. This is proving to be the longest to solve problem, but the DSP helps.
In the future I might try facing the woofers forward, though this will make for a very wide speaker.
What is your crossover point between the woofer and midrange? What are the frequency responses of each without the crossover? Have you measured the driver/box impedances?
I think that the side mounting issue is a red herring- your real problem is the first order crossovers, which are extremely unlikely to give you a 6dB/octave acoustic transfer function- and are HIGHLY sensitive to physical offset. Your focus on the capacitor brands suggests that you haven't really looked at the fundamentals here. and that's likely where your problem is.
I think that the side mounting issue is a red herring- your real problem is the first order crossovers, which are extremely unlikely to give you a 6dB/octave acoustic transfer function- and are HIGHLY sensitive to physical offset. Your focus on the capacitor brands suggests that you haven't really looked at the fundamentals here. and that's likely where your problem is.
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an alternative to a passive radiator since your already building a sepreate isolated cabinet would be a specialty tuned port design i would make a cabinet ported in the back with an outer cabinet in the front so lets say you inner cab is 6 inches cubed 1/2 inch lumber outer cab would be 8 inch cubed 3/4 due to bass exposure now port that outer cab with 2 inch by 5 inch oval slots all 4 sides top bottom left right in the front the inner cab port with a 3/4 inch by 3 inch insulate the inner cab with polyurethane coach stuffing or a even a light fiber glass if your going into the highs but that port will simulate a much larger sealed cab within a a certain frequency range much like a passive radator i found such a design gave me supper smooth and hard hitting bass from a pair of 15s applied the concept in a less advanced method as it was about pressure release not re verb syncing meaning you will end up with out phase sound coming out the port at some frequencies unless you try to reflect certain tones though different paths and back though the port a radiator would be best in the back to avoid any re-verb keep the front hard and the back padded as much as you can and some on the sides as well as top and bottom also keep in mind if you radiator is to soft your not gonna get it to move you want a stiff radiator almost like a 5 inch woofer with no magnet now spider just the cone and foam edge and no steel frame behind it what ever route you chose good luck
2.5way might be a good solution ... they just didn't know this
I think Focal/Jacques Mahul designed and built the first commercial 2.5way speaker
a standmount with 2x 5", ofcourse
but noone really knew why he did that
it just looked like dodgy cheating
might actually work very well with the sidemounted subwoofer
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