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Old 26th September 2013, 02:16 AM   #1
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Default 12inch speaker setup questions

At present I have a three way sealed system which includes with a 12inch driver, 5inch mid, and 2inch tweeter, and crossover. The existing speakers are not stamped with any name, so the whole speakers would sell for $400 as a guess. I have opened them up and installed batons and extra wood paneling, caulked them and put in an inch of dampening material. Also put in a better 5inch mid-range driver. There is nice beautiful bass without boom. (Love 12inch speakers!) I think also by adding a better tweeter I might get a better sound but I do not know?
The speaker boxes being 24 1/2"x14 1/2"x 14 1/2" internal measurement 5151cubic inches.
1. Generally as a rough guide, would I get an improvement in sound quality by porting them?
2. Adding a supertweeter?
3. After adding flexible silicone sealant all around every inside edge do you then add a duct or cloth tape, then timber strips to get a best seal?
In anticipation thanking any assistance immensely.
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Old 26th September 2013, 02:59 AM   #2
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No
No
No

It sounds like you have done all the usual extras
Pictures would help
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Old 26th September 2013, 05:13 AM   #3
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Thanks Moondog55 it seems I am the one barking at the moon. Well your response has clarified some major points. I thought about what I wrote and have tried to nail it down better, just what I am dissatisfied with, but neglected to mention. There is a bit of un-clarity or unmusical screeching, screeching seems too harsh a word, in the top end, and mind you it is not a lot; but but having been bitten by the DIY bug I would like to have a go at rectifying it.
1. Which leaves purchasing a better or more expensive tweeter?
2. Or a better crossover?
These were fairly basic pieces of furniture that began their life.
I will get some help with loading pictures.
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Old 26th September 2013, 05:25 AM   #4
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another way of exploring Speaker's World is to avoid the box concept and disassemble and make floating ( indipendent, mechanically) all the parts. An extension of the concept is to make all the system unboxed & free. So it's not a matter of speakers only: they can be easily turned to unboxed & free by making a tall frame and suspended speaker's baskets with rubber bands. Same for the crossover and the electronics!
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Old 26th September 2013, 08:34 AM   #5
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What tools do you have available to you?

By any chance do you have a Radio Shack (or other) SPL Meter (SPL = Sound Pressure Lever or Loudness)?

That's probably the most basic tool you need. If you have more money, then there are better tools.

What I've done with my speakers is measure the woofers by sending a tone (on a CD) at roughly 500hz to check the output level. Then the midrange at about 2000hz, then the tweeter at about 6000hz. I found, as I already knew, that my midrange and tweeter were well above my woofer. So, I added L-Pads (attenuating resistors) to bring the Mid/High level down closer to that of the woofer. By the way, in my speakers, the Mid and High are Horns, which is why they are so loud.

In you case, it might be possible to simply attenuate the tweeter a bit to soften its sound.

But, you've given us a very little to work with. For example, you asked if it is an advantage to replace the crossover. Well we can't know unless we know what the current crossover is.

You might be able to put in a better sweeter Tweeter, but it must be the same impedance as the existing tweeter, otherwise the Crossover is not going to be right.

A picture really would be helpful. For example, does the woofer have the more common Half-Roll Surround attaching the bass cone to the frame, or does if have a cloth-like accordion Surround. If it is a cloth like accordion Surround, then likely it is a special driver what will only work in a sealed cabinet.

If these are commercial speakers rather than home made, give us the brand and model. Many of these older speakers have already been reworked by people. If you have a common brand, then mods probably already exist.

In then end though, you simply haven't given us enough information to provide you with any worthwhile answers.

Steve/bluewizard

Last edited by BlueWizard; 26th September 2013 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 26th September 2013, 09:36 AM   #6
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First up apologies for the lack of information and thank you for your response. I purchased these on hearing, they were used, with no information supplied. The bass was tight and vibrant, and I brought them on that basis.
The speakers do have a half roll surround.
I do not have a SPL meter but I immediately see the necessity and its relevance, so I will get one.
I do have a spare pair of Dayton Audio L-Pads 8 ohms. Not sure how I should hook these up. Do I tap into the internal wire coming from the tweeter to the crossover?
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Old 26th September 2013, 10:19 AM   #7
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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It might be the mid driver acting out above its range. Disconnect one driver at a time to help find it.
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Old 26th September 2013, 04:59 PM   #8
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When you say you have a Dayton Audio L-Pad o 8 ohms can we assume you mean a Variable L-Pad, by that I mean, it has a dial or a knob on it so you can vary the attenuation?

Attached are a couple of Graphics that might be helpful. In the one graphic, you can ignore R1 across the Tweeter, that was unique to my specific application.

Also, the more information you can give us, the better.

Also, with a 3-way crossover, it might be necessary to wire one of the components (mid, though usually tweeter) backwards (+) to (-). Have you removed the wires from any of the drivers and are you sure you got the wire back on exactly the way they came off?

Steve/bluewizard
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Piezo-L-Pad1a.jpg (34.3 KB, 395 views)
File Type: jpg L-Pad-XO-SPKR-1A.jpg (10.4 KB, 392 views)
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Old 26th September 2013, 11:20 PM   #9
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A. Steve yes to your question, a variable attenuated L-pad.
A. The wiring I was careful about and it being easily identifiable.
So I will go ahead with the L-pad with your thumbnail as a guide and report back.
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Old 29th September 2013, 06:04 AM   #10
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Q. "By any chance do you have a Radio Shack (or other) SPL Meter (SPL = Sound Pressure Lever or Loudness)?"

Steve any suggestions on a brand of SPL meter up to about $80. I was thinking of purchasing on ebay.
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