Hi-Vi D6.8 Best thing to do with them?

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I just purchased 8 Hi-Vi D6.8 mid bass drivers for a reasonable price so I was just wondering what would be the best thing to do with them.
Try and emulate the Mani-2 for instance!
I would like a recommendation for a suitable tweeter to go with them of possible. They are not very efficient,, so how would 4 of these per speaker
(non -Isobaric) with a suitably efficient tweeter sound.
I'm toying with the idea of laminating the cabinets internally with lead sheet, especially on the larger panels and the baffle.
They do model well in WIN isd for bass extension. Maybe not in volume but that's not an issue for me. (neighbours etc)

What do you think?
 
Mani-2 clone

Hi Jerryo!

I've noticed that you are thinking about a Mani-2 clone with the Hi-Vi D 6.8-s.
Actually I've built that thing last year (but unfortunately sold them....), and I can tell you, that with a modified Vifa XT25 TG30 tweeter they sound actually better than the Mani-2-s did (I know because I designed the M'2-s back in '92 :)). Same box size and construction, slightly different tuning, different x-over. In room the low end is around 25-28 Hz, but the sensitivity is rather low (cca. 83 dB/W), also it needs LOTS of power (min 150-200W class AB power). I have some pictures of the box, and the x-over, if you want them, I cam send them to you in PM.
 
Hi dragonweed,
many thanks for your reply.
I would welcome any information at all about the original Mani-2 speakers. What sort of modification to the Vifa tweeters do you mean?
I have 8 of these drivers arriving soon so I can improve the efficiency by doubling up the bass drivers by having 2 x Isobarik pairs per speaker if that would make sense; would that be a Mani-4?!

Please do send me a PM with any information or photo's that you have or are willing to give me. It would be much appreciated.
Cross-over specification, bracing, tuning, anything at all. I have various ideas about how to use these drivers but I have read some very good reports about the Mani-2's so it would be the obvious way to go.

Cheers
 
Back again!
Like many things in life one has to prioritise, so I've been a bit "otherwise engaged" of late!

So, my broad plan at the moment is to use these eight drivers in an MTM double Isobarik set up, with an EBS -3db alignment. Got a box size and tuning from Win Isd Pro. of 29 litres and 29 Hz tuning for the vent and box. They will give me around 88db/w
The cone excursion looks good to at least 35Hz for the bass.
For the mid/high range, I'm toying with the idea of making it possible (with the same cabinet) to try two approaches.
One: use the Monacor DT 300 tweeter with the WG 300 waveguide crossed at around
2000 Hz or
Two: use a suitable 3-4" fullrange crossed at around 300 Hz (eg: Monacor Spx-32m looks interesting at the price) but a Jordan/Bandor is also a thought (power issues)
For the tweeter/fullrange I'll arrange a gas tight but removable sub-baffle between the two Isobarik pairs of the Hi Vi D6.8's There will be space available for a small enclosure behind this if required. Because of this distance requirement (200mm) between the bass drivers to allow the fullrange/waveguide I think the fullrange route might be the way to go?!
I want to keep the crossover as simple as possible which also heads in the full range direction I think.

Any thoughts on my plans? (good or bad)

Cheers
 
Hi,
the design has in mind the "Mani-2" speaker that has received rave reviews. It will use the same back to back Isobarik arrangement but have greater bass output. These drive units seem to have great bass abilities and I have eight to use so this seemed an interesting way ahead.
Can you tell me why you do not like Isobarik loading and double driver arrangement. There are, I believe, quite a number who do like these arrangements.

Cheers
 
(...)Two: use a suitable 3-4" fullrange crossed at around 300 Hz (eg: Monacor Spx-32m looks interesting at the price) but a Jordan/Bandor is also a thought (power issues)
For the tweeter/fullrange I'll arrange a gas tight but removable sub-baffle between the two Isobarik pairs of the Hi Vi D6.8's There will be space available for a small enclosure behind this if required. Because of this distance requirement (200mm) between the bass drivers to allow the fullrange/waveguide I think the fullrange route might be the way to go?!
I want to keep the crossover as simple as possible which also heads in the full range direction I think.

Any thoughts on my plans? (good or bad)

Cheers
An idea (to test some likes and dislikes) is the Audio Nirvanas, Etons...
Eton Symphony 3" Midrange 3-400/A8/25 MG – Matched Pair
Audio Nirvana Full-Range Speakers For Sale. High Efficiency, DIY, Single Driver, Monitor Speakers with no crossover.
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an3cfspecs.jpg
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an6.5cfspecs.jpg
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an6.5neospecs.jpg
 
No please no!
But nothing can stop you to try some prototipal box as you said, then you can make your own opinion. it's just 4 square baffles with hole for the driver; as you said that you want to mount them back to back, there are no problems for mounting the hidden ones, at least if you make the back panel removable. Because there'll be a back panel, right ?
Lots of distorted/modulated bass, I guess ! Then there is the integration with the other(s) driver (s). A suspended one in the between sounds nice ( the back wave should not be refracted )
 
Hi-Vi D6.8

Can you tell me why you do not like Isobarik loading and double driver arrangement. There are, I believe, quite a number who do like these arrangements.
In this case you don't have anything to benefit from such design, no more sensitivity or anything.

Overview D6.8 Bass-Midrange_HiVi, Inc.
My take with this driver (this is going to be a little risqué...) :)
: Using 4 drivers for each speaker connected series/parallel, such that 2 drivers share a vented enclosure and two drivers in a sealed one.
The 2 drivers doing the sub service share an extra volume enclosure with VB = 37 to 40L and tuned to FB = 32.0 Hz, this giving for a 3" diam. port a ~30 cm/12" length (/or 27.50 cm/11" for the 40L). The other 2 drivers in the sealed enclosure share a space of 17L. This should play in tune with the required BSC and baffle dimensions. I don't know if the results are desirable or not but the impedance peaks frequencies are 60Hz for the reflex side and 70Hz for the sealed version side of the speaker with expecting sensitivities >90dB (92dB/2.83V/m) without attenuation.

Construction: You can make a test or final box/enclosure where you can remove or change the interior partitions and replace them with bracing as an example. Testing ports would also be available in a way that can be changed, covered or plugged. Have fun.
 
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