HI, I am planning on constructing a box along these dimensions or something close.
Width- 15"
Height- 8"
Depth- 12"
What I need are a midbass and tweeter combo that would work well ina box of this size. What program/tool can I use to determine what combos will work well together? I already have a Dayton 3000hz crossover that I purchased a while back and plan using it in the build. Has anyone ever seen a center along these built, have a guide? Thanks for all the help and take care
Width- 15"
Height- 8"
Depth- 12"
What I need are a midbass and tweeter combo that would work well ina box of this size. What program/tool can I use to determine what combos will work well together? I already have a Dayton 3000hz crossover that I purchased a while back and plan using it in the build. Has anyone ever seen a center along these built, have a guide? Thanks for all the help and take care
Nice work rabitz
How do you find that tweeter?
I do tend to wonder if it is outclassed a little by the HDS ...
I'm curious as to why it seems to be necessary to place a tweeter above the mid, when to achieve your goal regarding the shape, it would be easier to put it on the side ... I suspect the reply will be related to the horizontal dispersion around the crossover point, however I question whether this is really audible ... any thoughts anyone?
regards,
Paul
How do you find that tweeter?
I do tend to wonder if it is outclassed a little by the HDS ...
I'm curious as to why it seems to be necessary to place a tweeter above the mid, when to achieve your goal regarding the shape, it would be easier to put it on the side ... I suspect the reply will be related to the horizontal dispersion around the crossover point, however I question whether this is really audible ... any thoughts anyone?
regards,
Paul
im very strongly considering cloning rabbitz centre channel as it is so inexpensive to do in australia due to jaycar selling that tweeter so cheap, and also that you only need 1 woofer.
but i would prefer a more slim line profile like conventional MTM centres.
i personally dont think that the horizontal dispersion would be noticed greatly, i have seen some commertial manufacturers like M&K have TMM centre channels that are designed for studio monitors, hence i see no reason why it is not a reasonable option, perhaps if the port was on the otherside of the tweeter some output may come through and slightly improve horizontal dispersion
but i would prefer a more slim line profile like conventional MTM centres.
i personally dont think that the horizontal dispersion would be noticed greatly, i have seen some commertial manufacturers like M&K have TMM centre channels that are designed for studio monitors, hence i see no reason why it is not a reasonable option, perhaps if the port was on the otherside of the tweeter some output may come through and slightly improve horizontal dispersion
Paulspencer
The D26NC works surprisingly well. When testing the crossover it was done with music and blended with the HDS driver nicely, maybe it's the series XO - don't know for sure.
I like this TM configuration on centres due to problems with MTM on phase cancellation which is a function of driver centre to centre distance, off axis response, combing etc. Most of the audible problems are for those sitting off axis and I don't think it's a major problem for those on axis. I just don't like the idea of having a speaker that normally has 10° vertical, 40° horizontal dispersion having 40° vertical, 10° horizontal dispersion when in a MTM configuration.
The angles on the side are only there to reduce the baffle width and allow large radii.
Michael
The XO is at 3525Hz and 6dB slope. Due to the series XO tried to have XO about 3 times the tweeter Fs.
If you want the port near the tweeter, move the tweeter towards the top of the box and place the port underneath such as this pic. Install the woofers each side at an angle of 20-30°.
The D26NC works surprisingly well. When testing the crossover it was done with music and blended with the HDS driver nicely, maybe it's the series XO - don't know for sure.
I like this TM configuration on centres due to problems with MTM on phase cancellation which is a function of driver centre to centre distance, off axis response, combing etc. Most of the audible problems are for those sitting off axis and I don't think it's a major problem for those on axis. I just don't like the idea of having a speaker that normally has 10° vertical, 40° horizontal dispersion having 40° vertical, 10° horizontal dispersion when in a MTM configuration.
The angles on the side are only there to reduce the baffle width and allow large radii.
Michael
The XO is at 3525Hz and 6dB slope. Due to the series XO tried to have XO about 3 times the tweeter Fs.
If you want the port near the tweeter, move the tweeter towards the top of the box and place the port underneath such as this pic. Install the woofers each side at an angle of 20-30°.
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how would i modify that XO for use with 2 parralel woofers, making it 4ohm?
and also what do you mean drivers at an angle of 20-30degrees? do you mean 20-30 in relation to that tweeter so forming an upside down V?
ok now i just though any know the affects of facing the woofers slightly away from forwards so 5-10 degrees to either side... would this improve off axis response of voices for those sitting out othe swet spot...or would it simply destroy the sound stage and create voices at the let and right walls? i think i just got a headache
and also what do you mean drivers at an angle of 20-30degrees? do you mean 20-30 in relation to that tweeter so forming an upside down V?
ok now i just though any know the affects of facing the woofers slightly away from forwards so 5-10 degrees to either side... would this improve off axis response of voices for those sitting out othe swet spot...or would it simply destroy the sound stage and create voices at the let and right walls? i think i just got a headache
Michael
For 2 woofers in parallel change inductor from 0.5mH to 0.25mH.
You should read para 10.5 in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook which explains some of the reasons for having the woofers angled back from the front face.
Have a look at Andy Graddon's site. See the centre in the HT system.....that's what I mean (hope you don't mind Andy).
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HT1.htm
This is why I prefer the TM configuration as you treat it like a normal speaker.......no hassles and excellent results and being set to small, don't need below 80Hz, even though the F3 is below 60Hz.
Have a look at the Dynaudio 42C and read the reviews. You can get a low profile and still use TM instead of TMM. With a HDS woofer you would get a very low profile and you could use any shielded tweeter of your choice as you wouldn't need the low profile of the D26NC.
http://www.dynaudiona.com/products/audience/42cent/aud42c.htm
For 2 woofers in parallel change inductor from 0.5mH to 0.25mH.
You should read para 10.5 in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook which explains some of the reasons for having the woofers angled back from the front face.
Have a look at Andy Graddon's site. See the centre in the HT system.....that's what I mean (hope you don't mind Andy).
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HT1.htm
This is why I prefer the TM configuration as you treat it like a normal speaker.......no hassles and excellent results and being set to small, don't need below 80Hz, even though the F3 is below 60Hz.
Have a look at the Dynaudio 42C and read the reviews. You can get a low profile and still use TM instead of TMM. With a HDS woofer you would get a very low profile and you could use any shielded tweeter of your choice as you wouldn't need the low profile of the D26NC.
http://www.dynaudiona.com/products/audience/42cent/aud42c.htm
okay thatsounds easy enough, um i will buy the inductor from jaycar but they do not have a 0.25mH inductor the closest is 0.22 and 0.33, should i by the 0.33 and unwind it a few times unil i reach the value of 0.25 (can a multimeter measure it btw?).
also do i need to change te resistor because by having 2 woofers the effciency is now matched to the tweeter....so whatdo i change it to or can i simply remove it?
thanks rabbitz
oh and i just ordered my 2 woofers and bought the tweeter yesteray
also do i need to change te resistor because by having 2 woofers the effciency is now matched to the tweeter....so whatdo i change it to or can i simply remove it?
thanks rabbitz
oh and i just ordered my 2 woofers and bought the tweeter yesteray
OK Michael
The 2 woofers changes the xo as follows:
R=3.3 ohm, Inductor 0.25mH (can use a 0.22mH), Capacitor 5.6uF
Also buy a 2.2 ohm, 2.7 ohm and 3.9 ohm resistor and try each of these instead of the 3.3 ohm to see if you like the sound better - don't solder them in until you find the sound you like. Not expensive as 5W wirewound resistors are only about 30 cents each.
You need a meter that measures inductance if you are going to unwind a 0.33mH to 0.25mH. I've done it before by weight, measuring resistance and even uncoiling and measuring the length of wire. Real pain but can be done. You'd have to lose 25% of the wire to come down to 0.25mH.
The 2 woofers changes the xo as follows:
R=3.3 ohm, Inductor 0.25mH (can use a 0.22mH), Capacitor 5.6uF
Also buy a 2.2 ohm, 2.7 ohm and 3.9 ohm resistor and try each of these instead of the 3.3 ohm to see if you like the sound better - don't solder them in until you find the sound you like. Not expensive as 5W wirewound resistors are only about 30 cents each.
You need a meter that measures inductance if you are going to unwind a 0.33mH to 0.25mH. I've done it before by weight, measuring resistance and even uncoiling and measuring the length of wire. Real pain but can be done. You'd have to lose 25% of the wire to come down to 0.25mH.
i never have any luck putting pictures up here so ill try something silly instead... is this how the XO should look.
+ -----------0-----------------------------|
| |
| |
C 3.4uF W
| |
0-----------------------------|
| |
| T
L 0.25mH |
| |
- ---------0-------------R---------------|
3.3 ohm
is this right, if so great, oh and what sort of meter do you use to measure inductance mH cos my multi meter does not have an mH on it, is it something different, if i cant do it this wat i suppose i could use the weighing method... do you need to take the weight of plastic reel into account?
thanks again
+ -----------0-----------------------------|
| |
| |
C 3.4uF W
| |
0-----------------------------|
| |
| T
L 0.25mH |
| |
- ---------0-------------R---------------|
3.3 ohm
is this right, if so great, oh and what sort of meter do you use to measure inductance mH cos my multi meter does not have an mH on it, is it something different, if i cant do it this wat i suppose i could use the weighing method... do you need to take the weight of plastic reel into account?
thanks again
okay i got all gun hoe today and purchased all my parts
i got a it all from jaycar and it is as follows
flared 58mm ID port
gold plated binding posts (in that round hole on a square plate)
2.7mH inductor
5.6uF capacitor (higher prices yellow range)
mini grill clips
speaker grill cloth
2 growing crystal christmas trees that were on sale for $3 each
well i already had all the wood i need... and it was free
so now ill just get down and do some building. whilst hoping my woofers get here before christmas
i got a it all from jaycar and it is as follows
flared 58mm ID port
gold plated binding posts (in that round hole on a square plate)
2.7mH inductor
5.6uF capacitor (higher prices yellow range)
mini grill clips
speaker grill cloth
2 growing crystal christmas trees that were on sale for $3 each
well i already had all the wood i need... and it was free
so now ill just get down and do some building. whilst hoping my woofers get here before christmas
2.7mH???????
I hope that's a typo on your inductor as it should be 0.25mH and not 2.7mH.
If you use a 0.33mH you need to lose 2 rows of wire to bring it down to 0.25mH. As far as weighing goes, allow 4 grams for the plastic reel on the Jaycar ones. If you want to measure the inductance you need something like the Jaycar QM-1445.
Some 5W resistors too?
Here's the XO diagram - wires are joined at all intersection points.
I hope that's a typo on your inductor as it should be 0.25mH and not 2.7mH.
If you use a 0.33mH you need to lose 2 rows of wire to bring it down to 0.25mH. As far as weighing goes, allow 4 grams for the plastic reel on the Jaycar ones. If you want to measure the inductance you need something like the Jaycar QM-1445.
Some 5W resistors too?
Here's the XO diagram - wires are joined at all intersection points.
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