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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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i was thinking about making a 3 way speaker using jordans......... jx-53, jx-92s and jx150, has this been done before.......?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Sorry but widerange drivers are not the way to build a 3 way.
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#3 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
The JX53 & the JX150 make a very good, and very flexible 2-way with a 1st order XO anywhere from 250Hz-5k. Adding a JX92 would allow you to push the XOs out even further. The one thing worth considering is a set of ribbons instead of the JX53 -- a couple people have already built JX92/Aurum Cantus ribbon 2-ways. Another thing might be 2 JX125s instead of a JX150. One thing for sure... it would be striking -- nice & shiny. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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Swiss company Credo used to make a JX53/2xJX125 speaker which sounded pretty good.
I use a JX53/JX125 combination which sounds fine - there is no need for the JX92 to turn it into a three way (you're adding an unnecessary extra set of crossover components and a single JX53 works to the recommended 500Hz x/over point). The 125/150 and JX53 are better matched in terms of efficiency. They also share a similar suspension system, whereas the JX92 has a more conventional suspension and is designed specifically as a fullrange driver. The JX150 allows higher power handling than the JX125, otherwise they're very similar. A possible alternative, mentioned on the Jordan website, if you want to push the x/over farther down, is to use a JX92 with a JX150 as a sub, crossing over around 100Hz. Colin |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: denmark
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Quote:
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#6 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: London
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I am thinking of building TL subs/bass bins like the Rune Aleksanderson design
www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/rune but using the JX92 minimonitor I've already built, possibly with an added ribbon, instead of Rune's JX53 design. I prefer the looks of the Carolina Audio sub at http://www.carolinaaudio.com which should fit well with my existing speakers. Has anyone used the JX150 in a similar design - ie slim and deep rather than wide and shallow? Anyone got drawings? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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IMO, a JX53 and JX150 combination would beat the JX92/sub/ribbon combination. You avoid the x/over at high frequencies so the imaging is probably better.
Another - not cheap - approach is one I've heard at Ted's - 4x JX53s plus either a JX150 for bass or a separate powered subwoofer. The 4x JX53s will run quite happily down to 100Hz with no crossover at all. Finally ... I've mentioned on another thread that if you want to try the high x/over ribbon approach, Townshend made a highly regarded speaker which used the JX125 in a ported enclosure, crossing over to a ribbon at somewhere around 4-5kHz. I think that about covers all the variables .... Hope it's of help. Colin |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Close to Oistrakh
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Quote:
Why not? Could you please elaborate on this?
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What is beyond the speaker? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi Raka,
well IMO the bass and treble will be severely compromised. I may have misunderstood your post but all your answers are suggesting you shouldn't use those 3 units together for a 3 way. I'd suggest your core unit would be two identical units, one of these rolled off to give you baffle step compensation. This will give you a wide range 'core'. Choice of unit will depend on efficiency, power handling and dispersion issues and whether you will add a treble unit. If you add a treble unit it should be a treble unit ! Something like a planar unit or a ribbon. (Assuming a small metal dome is just too boring, though one would work well as as supertweeter and are cheap) IMO a bass unit is a bass unit is a bass unit. Most of the fancy materials will not be relevant when used as a pure bass unit so you have plenty of choice here, but you need to match the 'core' sensitivity - or go active. The unit should be selected on bass performance grounds. The crossover arrangements for the various units can be argued about indefinitely - but results count a lot more than dogma. I'd try 1st order arrangements. |
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