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Old 13th May 2013, 06:18 AM   #1
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Default how to brace a speaker cabinet?

how much bracing i should do, is there any limitations for it?
which sort of bracing is effective and please provide me some picture of this?
any type of wood can be used for bracing?
how should i screw brace with speaker cabinet?
if i want to build speaker with 2 woofer then how much bracing is need and which position i should brace in the cabinet?
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Old 13th May 2013, 08:53 AM   #2
wesayso is online now wesayso  Netherlands
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You can get a lot of different answers to this question. There is no one answer to do it right. But this might help to get some ideas: http://www.duelundaudio.com/download...s_and_room.pdf
It references the bracing from a B&W speaker: Click the image to open in full size. but takes it a step further.
In the end you will have to decide for yourself.
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Old 13th May 2013, 09:38 AM   #3
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Is there a trade-off with parallel flat surfaces vs, bracing; i.e. might make a "better box" but add other problems.
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Old 13th May 2013, 12:48 PM   #4
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Look up the "basslines" build for bracing the looks like it would be very effective and doesn't take up too much volume.
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Old 6th January 2015, 06:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrym303 View Post
Look up the "basslines" build for bracing the looks like it would be very effective and doesn't take up too much volume.
Hi and sorry but could you direct me to some specific thread discussing this ?
In general i think it could be interesting to look at the cabinet of the best subwoofer around.
This is an extreme situation but could give some hints.
Cabinet construction is very important for me. And not discussed enough.
Thanks and regards, gino
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Old 6th January 2015, 07:33 AM   #6
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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There's two schools of thought on cabinets.

Troels Gravesen often does braced MDF:
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And there's the BBC approach of light ply with damping panels:
Interesting read I found on Lossy Cabinet designs by Harbeth

The worst thing you can do is stick battens on panels of ready built boxes. This pushes the resonances higher and creates rattles. Better to add damping.
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Old 6th January 2015, 08:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by system7 View Post
There's two schools of thought on cabinets.

Troels Gravesen often does braced MDF:
DIY-Loudspeakers

And there's the BBC approach of light ply with damping panels:
Interesting read I found on Lossy Cabinet designs by Harbeth

The worst thing you can do is stick battens on panels of ready built boxes. This pushes the resonances higher and creates rattles. Better to add damping.
Bracing shifts resonances up in frequency, making them easier to hear. This is not good.

Solutions that seem to work:
For woofers you can make a casing that has resonances so high, the woofer can't excite them.
For mid and high frequencies you need the BBC method.
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Old 6th January 2015, 08:42 AM   #8
wesayso is online now wesayso  Netherlands
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Read the Duelund link I gave, bracing doesn't have to push the resonance up. Instead it can provide damping.
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Old 6th January 2015, 09:01 AM   #9
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Hi and thank you All for the very valuable input on an issue that personally i find a little overlooked in speaker design, very very wrongly.
I do not want to trivialize this important issue but i read 2 statements that sound right to me.
1) if you damp to much the cabinet the energy of the woofer is dissipated through the cabinet itself and not radiated to the room (clearly a bad thing). So a very stiff cabinet is a much better solution for a bass speaker.
2) soundstage wise, it is extremely important that the front baffle stays still, that it does not vibrate back and forth in respect to the listening position. Therefore a very thick and stiff front baffle is a must for a good soundstage rendition.
I and a friend put some lead sheets inside a speaker.
The bass cleaned up clearly but also the sound was a little muted and the emission reduced (so a mixed result, not completely convincing).
Personally i would prefer a very stiff cabinet with some light damping sheets on the sides.
I would not be very worried about lateral and rear panels vibrations.
As they are much much lower in level than the front direct signal.
Thanks again and kind regards, gino

Last edited by ginetto61; 6th January 2015 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 6th January 2015, 09:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesayso View Post
Read the Duelund link I gave, bracing doesn't have to push the resonance up. Instead it can provide damping.
Link doesn't work and PDF is not available on the site.
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