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Old 3rd December 2003, 12:54 AM   #11
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Get a PVC "T" and cut the "T" off as close to the pipe as possible. This will provide the flat surface on which to mount your driver. If you feel that the straight "T" is too large of a flat surface, get a reducing "T" (4" straight to 3" "T"). That will give you a 3-1/2" diameter "baffle" surface.
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Old 3rd December 2003, 01:05 AM   #12
StereoG is offline StereoG  New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Paulinator
The pipe is 4 1/2" PVC, a quarter-inch thick. The drivers are 3"
Here's an idea.
Use a ~3" piece of tubing for a connecting piece (ie the driver to be mounted on its end)

Use a program like tubemiter or winmiter to make a template for the notch on the 3" pipe, cut it out, and mark & cut the hole on the 4 1/2" pipe. Cut the 3" pipe as short as you dare afterwards, ie to a minimum.
Both are windows programs. tubemiter looks slightly more basic in its interface, but does the same job.

tubemiter.exe (and tubemit3.txt )
http://www.ihpva.org/tools/ (near bottom of page)

winmiter.zip
http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/winmiter.html
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Old 3rd December 2003, 02:33 AM   #13
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Tubemiter Kewl!

I wonder if it works on valves too?
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Old 3rd December 2003, 05:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by roddyama
Get a PVC "T" and cut the "T" off as close to the pipe as possible. This will provide the flat surface on which to mount your driver. If you feel that the straight "T" is too large of a flat surface, get a reducing "T" (4" straight to 3" "T"). That will give you a 3-1/2" diameter "baffle" surface.

Wow, that's some good thinking. That might be the best way to go. My only concern is that most 'T's have larger ends to act as female receptacles for other pipes, so I'll have to figure a way to disguise or get rid of that. Or if I can find one that is long enough that I can cut the larger ends off and still have enough pipe for a decent sized enclosure, that might work.

Good idea.
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